Getting Ready for the 2006 Race Season...................

[stealthTT]

Rich and I learned two things this summer, heat and vibration must be kept to a minimum or things will vibrate loose or cook. I think every broken thing on the car this summer can either be attributed to heat or vibration. A stroker motor with no balance shafts and so-so motor mounts makes too much vibration in race conditions. I know, I know, "Well duh!" But in trying to keep to a budget, we didn't think there was enough vibration to cause these problems. I started doubting my abilities to tighten a bolt properly. As well as, Rich didn't want to buy poly motor mounts. They don't make you faster, right? ha ha ha. But we found, that only under race conditions, enough vibration is caused that bolts and things vibrate loose. Well, now the motor sits like a rock, we've safety wired the turbo bolts to eliminate leaks to minimize the heat, and blu-loctited everything vital. We'll cross our fingers and see if we've finally made the car suitable for Rich's talents.

 

[Slow old poop]

We'll cross our fingers and see if we've finally made the car suitable for Rich's talents.

Aw, shucks. *blush*

I wouldn't have gotten anywhere this season if it wasn't for my fabulous crew: Mike the Mechanic (above), Brent the Master Fabricator, and Jon the Wrench. These guys can fix anything, and have done so all year. In fact, they nudge me out of the way when they are working, because I am clueless and absolutely no help. They give me little piddling, non-critical jobs to do, but mostly I just sit there and marvel that these guys are working THEIR butts off on MY car. Don't ever go racin' unless (a) you are a master mechanic or (b) have a bunch of good friends like I do.

When I was a punkass kid like these guys (late 20s), I used to hang out with older guys because they were so much more interesting than my drunken and doper friends. Now that I am the Slow Old Poop, I like hanging out with these young-uns because people my age are so dull and boring: couch potatoes, mostly, sitting around waiting to die.

Racing is life!

Rich

 

[eclipse2via]

Lack of balance shafts contributed to a T that had my stock oil pressure sensor and idiot light sensor to break off from my oil filter housing. It was in the next to last sesson of a trackday. I only had used a T because I couldn't believe the oil pressure was right as measured at the head. So I hooked up the stocker. I nearly got heat exhaustion laying on the 10 billion degree pavement trying to get the T out. Only to have the easy out break the thin aluminum of the housing. An 114 mile tow ensued. Ouch.

The other thing I'm having trouble with is exhaust mani nuts. I spent a bunch on ARP ss studs only to lose four ss nuts in under 2000 miles of mixed track and street driving this summer.

I have poly mounts installed everywhere but the tranny mount.

 

[Slow old poop]

Lack of balance shafts contributed to a T that had my stock oil pressure sensor and idiot light sensor to break off from my oil filter housing. It was in the next to last sesson of a trackday. I only had used a T because I couldn't believe the oil pressure was right as measured at the head.

Oil pressure too high, right? Me, too. That's why, when we ordered the 2.3 stroker, we had AMS install their balance shaft removal kit. When the original builder put my 2.0 motor together, he took out the balance shafts using some standard removal kit. We were running about 120 psi oil pressure last year, and blew out three oil filters. Apparantly, just taking out the balance shafts takes a load off the oil pump, and lets it run at berserk pressures. The AMS kit restores part of the balance shaft mechanism*, so the pump operates at normal pressures. We run 80 psi now, and haven't blown a filter all year.

Rich

*at least, that's how I THINK it works. I'm sure somebody will correct me.

 

[steve]

Porting the oil pressure relief valve also works for getting the oil pressure back under control.

Steve

 

[mavisky]

I ported the oil pressure relief hole on my new oil filter housing while doing my oil cooler upgrade (tech article on it on this site) and it helped keep my pressures more around the 90psi range instead of pegging my 100psi guage.

 

[Slow old poop]

I ported the oil pressure relief hole on my new oil filter housing while doing my oil cooler upgrade (tech article on it on this site) and it helped keep my pressures more around the 90psi range instead of pegging my 100psi guage.

Yes, we tried that too. We got it down to about 100 psi hot, and still blew a filter.

Another solution might be a remote-mount oil filter. That would allow us to use a larger filter, and get the filter away from the turbo. Anybody try that?

Rich

 

[Greg Collier]

Yes, we tried that too. We got it down to about 100 psi hot, and still blew a filter.

Another solution might be a remote-mount oil filter. That would allow us to use a larger filter, and get the filter away from the turbo. Anybody try that?

Rich

Yeah, Scot Gray has that setup on his car. I think he uses a big-ol Ford truck filter

 

[Turbo Shogun]

Oil pressure too high, right? Me, too. That's why, when we ordered the 2.3 stroker, we had AMS install their balance shaft removal kit. When the original builder put my 2.0 motor together, he took out the balance shafts using some standard removal kit. We were running about 120 psi oil pressure last year, and blew out three oil filters. Apparantly, just taking out the balance shafts takes a load off the oil pump, and lets it run at berserk pressures. The AMS kit restores part of the balance shaft mechanism*, so the pump operates at normal pressures. We run 80 psi now, and haven't blown a filter all year.

Rich

*at least, that's how I THINK it works. I'm sure somebody will correct me.

Are you serious? I just picked up a BSEK from AMS two weeks ago and all I got were three bearings, a stub shaft and a freeze plug to cover up the hole where the front balance shaft used to sit. I also ponied up for the balance shaft crank pulley eliminator.

I've heard of people taking a lathe to their OEM rear balance shaft (the one on the oil pump driven gear) to remove the counterweight so the driven gear stays put and the oil pump remains supported through that one bearing in the middle of the block. Far be it for me to knock a time-honored DSM tradition, but that does sound like a better solution ...

I mean, there's nothing really holding that driven gear in place, since the shaft doesn't run to that bearing, right (I've noticed a large amount of play)? Or do I need to put down the can of carb cleaner and get some sleep? WTF

 

[TSIfreek]

Maybe Stampy at AMS can help us out with this.

 

[mavisky]

Simply port out your oil filter housing and you'll be ok.

Middle hole on the left.
Before.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

After

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The problem lies in the fact that the little hole is fine for factory oil pressure, but by raising the oil pressure by taking multiple oiling ports away from the pump you raise the pressure in the rest of the system and that little hole can't bypass the pressure fast enough. Think of it in the same way as we do fuel pressure regulator overrun. When you put in a 255 the stock diaphragm isn't big enough to move the fuel, same here as there's a spring and a plunger on the other side of that hole that's used to regulate oil pressure. Even at full open on the stock opening though you just can't move enough oil out of the way, a simple port job cures this. Now the good news is that this is easy to do if you're doing the BSEK at the same time. I don't see the typical pegged 100psi guage at cold startup like I used to, and at wot it doesn't get near to 100psi until redline and I run 20w-50 oil.

Here's another good picture showing the relief valve installed, this guy opened his even more than I did though.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Turbo Shogun]

Well, I know about the porting of the relief valve (gonna do that today), but what I was really concerned about was lateral loads moving the oil pump driven gear around with the stub shaft around during cornering.

 

[mavisky]

I haven't had any issues with my motor on that end, but I'm using a cut down stock bs shaft in my motor.

 

[Greg Collier]

So this is my last update in the “getting ready for 2006”, because I think I’ve gotten ready at least a half dozen times this year…. Blah-blah blah-blah frigging blah!

The motor: Mitch tore the whole engine apart and then used his sub atomic particle microscope analyzer. The head gasket was gone (due do the last radiator hose explosion) and found some slight scaring on the main bearings and cylinder walls. He shaved the head, honed the cylinders, and did his usual 1000 point check list, making sure the motor was up to his standards. Mitch is an absolute perfectionist and everything must be perfect or it doesn’t leave his shop. He told me if I screwed up this motor he would be flying to California, hunting me down, and inserting the entire engine (with down pipe) up my ass! The motor is back here in San Diego.

The tranny: John Shepherd disassembled the transmission finding teeth from 3rd and 4th gears missing. John said they were the pieces of metal that discharged through the bottom of the bell housing. He said the entire tranny including the bell housing was junk, and the only salvageable part was the Kaas LSD. John has built me an entirely new transmission that will be arriving here next Tuesday.

Mike Welch from RRE is sending me a new RRE-X clutch with a solid hub puck style disc. This particular clutch has a 2700 lb. clamp load pressure plate with less effort the ACT 2600 that I was running. Between Mike and Scot Gray they felt it was the best mating surface between Mitch’s engine and John’s tranny.

We obviously didn’t race in October so my chances for a 2006 SU championship have diminished. We will be at the last race on November 11th and 12th at Buttonwillow raceway and should have all the bugs worked out for this our final race of the season

 

[TSIfreek]

Dam I wish I had your pocket book!!!

 

[Greg Collier]

Dam I wish I had your pocket book!!!

Mitch, probably my best friend by now and incredible person (Engintecs) is sponsoring the motor. John (Shepherd Transmissions) and all around great guy is helping out big time with the costs of the tranny. Mike and Scot (Roadrace Engineering) have been behind my car for almost four years now doing whatever they have to.

If I didn't have their support, I wouldn't be racing! I couldn't afford it...

 

[steve]

Greg, best of luck finishing off the season.
I feel bad about cursing the beginning.

What a great bunch of sponsors. Each is a company I have no problems doing business with or trusting my car to and I highly recommend them to anyone. Don't forget Forced Performance too.

Steve

 

[mavisky]

You know I feel your pain brother, but only not even half the scale. As you and others have said it's a 1st class team you've got behind you and with a 1st class driver in the seat this car will be amazing once sorted.

 

[Greg Collier]

Greg, best of luck finishing off the season.
I feel bad about cursing the beginning.

What a great bunch of sponsors. Each is a company I have no problems doing business with or trusting my car to and I highly recommend them to anyone. Don't forget Forced Performance too.

Steve

Thanks Steve, and yes Robert at FP has been anything but incredible this year!

 

[Zero Bar]

Good luck with the last race Greg!! If it weren't for sponsorship there would be almost no racing, it's an expensive hobby. Makes me miss the days of hot wheels and micro machines that only cost $3.99!!

 

[drivemusicnow]

Thanks Steve, and yes Robert at FP has been anything but incredible this year!

I was wondering if it would be possibly for you to take some pictures of the car without the engine in it? I'm just sorta curious as to wall all you have left that is stock/versus not. I'm particular interested in the front fascia/ducting from the engine side. I know you probably don't have too much time, but I don't think anyone on here wouldn't like to see more of your car

(yes I've looked in your "gallery" a few hundred times)

 

[mavisky]

Robert is a number one class act and I'd put the reputation their shop has up with anyone else in any market you could come up with. Robert and Brian have both been instrumental in keeping my car on the road and racing as well. As I've told both of them before, I'll never make another turbo related purchase from anywhere else but Forced Performance. Any amount of dollar savings you may be able to find isn't worth the lack of informative and helpful assistance they're willing to provide at the drop of a hat.

 

[Greg Collier]

I was wondering if it would be possibly for you to take some pictures of the car without the engine in it? I'm just sorta curious as to wall all you have left that is stock/versus not. I'm particular interested in the front fascia/ducting from the engine side. I know you probably don't have too much time, but I don't think anyone on here wouldn't like to see more of your car

(yes I've looked in your "gallery" a few hundred times)

From the inside looking out...

Edit: I'm ordering a new front "drift" fascia and I'm going to modify it with the intention of getting a better "v" mount with the FMIC (something unique). The one that's on there now is getting pretty beat up anyway with at least a dozen fiberglass repairs.

 

[hairybeanbag]

From the inside looking out...

Edit: I'm ordering a new front "drift" fascia and I'm going to modify it with the intention of getting a better "v" mount with the FMIC (something unique). The one that's on there now is getting pretty beat up anyway with at least a dozen fiberglass repairs.

It's nice to see someone else "bags and tags" their parts

 

[Greg Collier]

It's nice to see someone else "bags and tags" their parts

Ya know that's funny... because I've got about 20 extra bags of nuts and bolts left over this year so far!


J/K