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Getting Ready for the 2006 Race Season...................

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tstkl said:
do you find that in these races you tend to run out of gas? how many gallons is your tank and how many gallons do you use in one day. (on average) I tend to find my car doesn't like going below 4 gallons for some reason. It gets really frusterated or something because the gas is sloshing around or something.

Whenever my tank gets to about 1/4, I get fuel pickup problems on long left turns. The solution is either a fuel cell or a surge tank.

Rich
 
I have that problem at autocross as well, much below half a tank and I get fuel starve. Greg, you have a fuel cell right?? If so did you have fuel starve before you got it too? I've heard there's a couple things you can do to your stock tank to help combat the problem, anyone know anything about that?
 
Yep, same problem here with the 1g; REALLY hard left-handers at autocross would starve the car and cause a pretty nasty hesitation. The best solution in my case was just to run autocross events with a full tank; let's face it, a full-weight lightly-modded 1g isn't hampered much by the additional fuel weight. ;) Longer term, feeding the stock tank into a surge tank, or installing a surge tank into the stock tank somehow, would probably work pretty well.

The 2g tank is pretty decent in this regard; there's essentially a factory surge enclosure around the pickup that does a pretty good job of preventing starvation. (The 2g tank has a few other problems, though. ;))

Greg, nice results considering the boost level you're running. Are you still doing a hi/low cockpit control, or just running 16psi all the time now? (I'd have such a hard time keeping myself from cranking it up in the straights...)
 
We stopped at 16psi because we broke a tie-down strap on the front end of the car at the dyno wheel. The guy sitting on a chair in front of the car misting the I/C just about crapped his pants when the car suddenly moved towards him. It was so hot and the car was responding so well we decided to call it a day. We're figuring around 21 psi should give us a consistent 500 hp. (I can't complain with that) :shhh: With Scot coming to the track next weekend we'll probably up the boost a bit. We don't really need to dyno the car with all the EMS capabilities and its readings.

As far as the dual stage boost controller goes I don't really need it anymore. I use to run a steady 300hp with a boost increase for an extra 30hp. If I ran 330 all the time the engine would get pretty hot. The big numbers I'll be running all the time now doesn't necessitate a boost or horsepower increase.

For the fuel cell I run a sump or surge tank in the cell itself. There are ball bearings that close and hold a constant fuel level when I'm turning. This application also applies when running low on gas.

The fuel cell holds 13 gallons which is good for about 60 minutes of full on racing...

The FP 3052 is so sweet, and I think the combination of the built 2.4 and this particular turbo is producing a solid power ban that will only get better and better with time!

Mitch was pleased with the results of our dyno session saying the motor is good to run around 8500 rpm all day! OMG
 
I'm actually working on a solution for the 1g fuel starvation problem.

Basically I'm making a swirl tank that is part of the fuel pump pickup. This will be fed with two electric high flow/low pressure Facet feeder pumps. This will help de airate the fuel as well. When I get the project done, I'll take some pictures, write up a how-to and parts needed.

Should completely eliminate any fuel starvation conditions with only adding about 2 lbs. I just need to figure out how to mount the pumps in opposite corners of the tank.

This will probably be a little ways off, as I'm about to head back to school.
 
O btw greg, Im working on installing camaro headlights into a 1990 and I noticed it looks like you still have the stock headlights. These headlights are the size of the lower turn signal housing (the inner turn signals that allows you to flash your high beams at people even if your pop ups aren't open.) in height, so mounting them in that housing rather than having the whole pop up assembly will reduce weight (no motors to lift up the whole assembly) add a lot of room, and the possibility of more airflow to the airfilter, which if you currently have a scoop somewhere else, will allow for more air to the brakes, oil cooler/power steering cooler (whichever you have on that side, if any) or ducting to the raditator so you can lower the intercooler a tad. Eliminating the pop up assembly with these camaro headlights seems like an easy thing, and for 40 dollars for the whole assembly, it was a project I couldn't pass up on. The wiring for our headlights has three pins, low beam, ground, and high beams, so if you double the ground wire, you have one for each light. (btw Im talking about the headlights that come off a 93-97 camaro), so it will be easy to do as far as electronics go. As for keeping the pop ups up, I think if you put a bolt and nut to replace the motor, you can keep it wherever you want, but more research will be going into that later. I think my 9 inch k&n will really love me after this mod is done. Ill take pics once Im done. I don't like taking pics during the process because it interupts my chi. (LOL)
 
saw those cone things in earlier pics and thought they were the factory headlight mounts, my bad.
 
The motors and pop-up mechanisms are gone only leaving the swing hinges. Both have ducts, one for intake and the other for power steering cooling. I was thinking about fabricating a couple of drop in headlight boxes if we ever did night racing. It would make the front of the car look like a 240Z. I still want to see your Camaro headlight fabrication when you're finished...
 
well I got them wired in today (by wired in I mean I) only the drivers side, and II) I have yet to duplicate the ground for both lights, but I tried them both and they both work.) Now all thats left is cutting the bucket for the inner turn signal, :cry: I have huge mental problems with cutting up the body of my car, but I'll try and finish it this weekend. I got school the rest of this week, so I'll have to wait til friday night to finish it off. I need to make a bracket for the pop up covers too, so that should get interesting. I was thinking about cutting up the factory unit and just using that, but its really heavy metal, so I might as well get some lighter stuff and do it right the first time. whats some good stuff to "weld" plastic to plastic. I was thinking super glue, but if theres something better, I'd rather use that instead.
 
So we changed the water pump, added an additional oil line adapter to the FP turbo filter from the block, wrapped the Tial dump tube with header wrap, and re-fabricated the Samco hoses to fit a 1G. We also changed to (two) Greddy 1.3 bar = (18 lb.) radiator and breather tank caps. After re-installing the breather tank, the car is holding pressure (per the water switch indicator in the thermostat housing), and the water temps are with in normal range. We’ve got two weeks before the Fontana race and the additional aluminum shroud around the radiator and FMIC will be complete this weekend, so we should be good to go
 

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I hope that I don't seem like a total newbie here, but how are you metering your air?
 
He is running Speed Density with an AEM EMS.
 
Greg,

I will be out there for the next event to make sure she runs good. Always takes a while to work out the little bugs with a new setup.
 
Blak94GSX said:
Greg,

I will be out there for the next event to make sure she runs good. Always takes a while to work out the little bugs with a new setup.

Hey Scot, you're on top of my to-do list of people to call/e-mail... The motor is solid as a rock by the by!
 
I'll have my fingers crossed for you. Good luck.

What is the benefit of having a second breather tank with a cap? Is it solely to keep fluids from being pushed out of the stock tank and onto the track by adding more volume and a second cap?

I'm sure you know, but don't forget the lower radiator hose clamps. LOL

Thanks for the good pics. I learned a few new things about your car and the layout of things. ;)

Once again, good luck on the next race. :rocks:
 
Greg, think you can get a shot of one of those Nascar drivers as you pass him on the straight?? Should be entertaining!!! Good luck at fontana!:thumb:
 
stealthTT said:
I'll have my fingers crossed for you. Good luck.

What is the benefit of having a second breather tank with a cap? Is it solely to keep fluids from being pushed out of the stock tank and onto the track by adding more volume and a second cap?

I'm sure you know, but don't forget the lower radiator hose clamps. LOL

Thanks for the good pics. I learned a few new things about your car and the layout of things. ;)

Once again, good luck on the next race. :rocks:

I'm still waiting for the t-bolt clamps I ordered for the rad hoses...

Breather Tank System

The air-separation tank must be installed higher than your stock radiator cap height. Once the thermostat opens, the hot coolant bypasses the radiator to pass through the tank, and is returned, hot, to the water pump inlet to re-enter the engine housing ports.
Its purpose is first to collect air/vapor in the cooling system, coolant without air-bubbles is much more efficient than coolant with air bubbles, because it absorbs heat much faster. Stagnant chamber. Then by thermal expansion of the fluid and gas, it purges the collected air from the lower radiator hose into the air-separation tank.
 
Zero Bar said:
Greg, think you can get a shot of one of those Nascar drivers as you pass him on the straight?? Should be entertaining!!! Good luck at fontana!:thumb:

Fontana is going to be a blast with no pressure for points. I've got the in-car video cam setup in the car so I should get some good videos of the race :sneaky:
 
Greg Collier said:
So we changed the water pump, added an additional oil line adapter to the FP turbo filter from the block, wrapped the Tial dump tube with header wrap, and re-fabricated the Samco hoses to fit a 1G. We also changed to (two) Greddy 1.3 bar = (18 lb.) radiator and breather tank caps. After re-installing the breather tank, the car is holding pressure (per the water switch indicator in the thermostat housing), and the water temps are with in normal range. We’ve got two weeks before the Fontana race and the additional aluminum shroud around the radiator and FMIC will be complete this weekend, so we should be good to go

Sweet. Now to weigh the risks of more joints in the piping versus strength of the silicone hose.

So how long is the fitting in the lower hose?

And what other mods did you do to the hose set?
 
eclipse2via said:
Sweet. Now to weigh the risks of more joints in the piping versus strength of the silicone hose.

So how long is the fitting in the lower hose?

And what other mods did you do to the hose set?

New avatar... what's that chasing you?

I ended up using "part" of the lower Samco hose for the upper, and the upper and what I had left over for the lower, (minus 3-inches)... I have a 3-inch hose adapter in the lower hose that connects to the breather tank system.
 
It looks like a temp gauge insert would probably fit too then.

That's a Lotus factory Exige something or other brought by Smith Volvo Lotus to a Golden Gate Lotus Club trackday in May at Buttonwillow. Supercharged 1.8L and sub 1800lbs. make for pretty quick package. That's the group I most often run with. The only cars that need loose tech more than DSMs at trackdays are Loti.;)
 
eclipse2via said:
It looks like a temp gauge insert would probably fit too then.

That's a Lotus factory Exige something or other brought by Smith Volvo Lotus to a Golden Gate Lotus Club trackday in May at Buttonwillow. Supercharged 1.8L and sub 1800lbs. make for pretty quick package. That's the group I most often run with. The only cars that need loose tech more than DSMs at trackdays are Loti.;)

Love the color of your car. Welcome to the Blues Brothers Racing team!

I looked at your engine photo. No heat shield over the manifold, no hood vent. Got any problems with heat in there? If I did that on my car, it would melt everything from the timing belt cover to the shift cables to the paint on the hood.

No holddown on the dipstick, either. Do you have a solution we don't know about?

Rich
 
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