Frozen Hub/removing axle

[Mytrn2brn]

Hey guys, my hub/bearing is frozen to the axle and won't come off. I tried everything that everyone else on here has tried/ Map gas heat, PB blaster, heavy duty puller, impact gun, and sledge hammer, all to no avail. I haven't ruined the axle yet so this is my last ditch effort. I want to remove the axle and take it to a shop and see if they can press the hub off. So my question is will the CV joint pass threw the spindle or does the entire spindle have to come off also. I don't want to separate the ball joints and tie rod if i don't have to. My car is a 95 GSX

Thanks

 

[96eclipzGsT]

I have a pnuematic punch i put on the end of it and that usually does the trick or just unbolt the upper/lower ball joints, and strut assembly and pull the whole thing out.

 

[knochgoon24]

The fronts won't pass through the knuckle, but the rears will IIRC.

I just took a bench grinder to the cup of the CV joint to get most of the grinding done, then I took a Dremel to grind it down the rest of the way to get it to fit.

I've replaced 3 wheel bearing on my rust-belt DSM. I've had to replace 2 axles because they wouldn't even come out with the help of a 15 ton press.

 

[Doubleot]

I'm done this before, it should slip out of the rear fairly easy. I'm pretty sure your going to have to replace the whole axle. I had a 25 ton press on mine and it didn't budge at at all. Did all the fire, blaster and anything else possible finally had to get a whole new axle and the only place I found it was dealer......$345.00
Good luck sir.

 

[knochgoon24]

Since he mentioned removing a tie-rod end, I'm guessing he's doing a front one.

If you have ABS, be careful not to damage the sensor. My ABS no longer works right because I broke 2 of the sensors.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

The axle will come out. I lived in south GA, where it is a dust bowl. Nothing, but dirt roads, every bolt on my car was rusted solid. It will not come out in a press. It takes a good solid hit from at least an 11lb sledge and lots of pb blaster. Keep hitting it, they will come out. I had two sledge hammers. I had a friend hold one against the axle so not to mess up the end and then hit the end of that one. I unbolted everything though and had the whole assembly on the ground before I started hitting it.

 

[Mytrn2brn]

My bad, Im working on the front passenger side, and thanks I didn't think the axle would pull threw the spindle so I 'm going to remove the spindle and the axle as a unit and try a press first, If that doesn't do it I guess it time to eat the cost for a new axle.
This is alot of heck to go through just to change a bearing with 55k on it, That buffalo winters for ya

 

[knochgoon24]

My bad, Im working on the front passenger side, and thanks I didn't think the axle would pull threw the spindle so I 'm going to remove the spindle and the axle as a unit and try a press first, If that doesn't do it I guess it time to eat the cost for a new axle.
This is alot of heck to go through just to change a bearing with 55k on it, That buffalo winters for ya

Depending on your power goals, a $70 axle from your local discount parts store will probably hold up fine. I'm running 1. (The other is a $375 OEM one. Not doing that again. That's before I knew better.)

 

[Mytrn2brn]

I would love to know what parts store you can get an axle from for $70. If that's all they cost Im gona grab my recip. saw and hack the thing off.

 

[99gst_racer]

Hey guys, my hub/bearing is frozen to the axle and won't come off. I tried everything that everyone else on here has tried/ Map gas heat, PB blaster, heavy duty puller, impact gun, and sledge hammer, all to no avail. I haven't ruined the axle yet so this is my last ditch effort. I want to remove the axle and take it to a shop and see if they can press the hub off.

Try using an oxy-acetylene torch before you start pulling the knuckle apart. It gets much hotter than MAP gas.

So my question is will the CV joint pass threw the spindle or does the entire spindle have to come off also. I don't want to separate the ball joints and tie rod if i don't have to. My car is a 95 GSX

No, it won't pass through that way. Unfortunately, you're going to have to disconnect everything and take the spindle in with the halfshaft dangling off of it.

 

[turbosax2]

I would love to know what parts store you can get an axle from for $70. If that's all they cost Im gona grab my recip. saw and hack the thing off.

GSP axles from Advance Auto Parts. Brand new axles, don't need a core.

 

[99gst_racer]

I would love to know what parts store you can get an axle from for $70. If that's all they cost Im gona grab my recip. saw and hack the thing off.

NAPA. Remanufacturered front CV shafts for 2G cars are around $65 with a core.

 

[Mytrn2brn]

Thanks lots guys, Unfortunately I don't have and I'm unable to get access to an oxy-acetylene torch. So before I start unbolting everything and cutting the axle I'm going to see if i can get a descent price on a new axle $65 bucks aint bad to save whats left of my sanity.

Thanks again

 

[jericho777]

I removed the whole knuckle w/ axle and took to someone w/a press to get it out. It damaged the first few threads but I just filed them off. It will be your easiest fix. Try first to save some money.

 

[Filthy95talon]

sometimes they refuse to come out despite any type of effort. mine are permanately f'd up from beating and grinding and what not. But the good news here is that when its that bad... they're not coming out. I just beat my axle nuts back on the f'd up threads and continue riding to this day... ! i'm not even joking.

 

[Doubleot]

FYI
Mine was a rear, No where around had them, I literally checked every parts store within 30 miles each way.

 

[dsmcurse]

front passanger side axel stuck, well... your gonna have to dissconnect the tie rod and both lower controll arms. mine were stuck too, both sides in the front. no matter what i did they wouldnt come out. at the time i was working as a deisel mechanic at this place called wheco fleet. i had all the old badass grey haired mechanics helpin me. those older guys have been there done that seen it all. my axles were stuck even with the help of the older dudes. air hammers, nope. fire, nope. screw the axel nut on backwards flush to the threads and beat the shit outa it with sledge hammer, nope. once they get rusted and stuck there done for. do you really wanna roll with that wheel bearing after beating the shit out of it and puttin the fire to it? no.

just take the whole thing apart and buy a new axel and a new wheel bearing (hub). the tie rod and lower control arm portions where its a ball joint will come apert with a speacial tool called a pickle fork.
you dont have to have this tool tho. you can just use a BFH (big f@*%!ing hammer) remove the nut off of the tie rod and the lower control arms (lower control arm nuts only unscrew like 3/4 of the way until they hit the boot on the axel and get stuck, thats ok) take your bfh, and hit the knuckle by where the tie rod slips into the hole. this is known as the (sweet spot) just look at where your tie rod end plugs into the assembaly. the solid metal portion is ok to hit on. DO NOT HIT THE THREADS!

this will make your tie rod come out. next use this same concept down low on the lower control arms. there is also a sweet spot to hit on with your sledge. once they pop loose you can push lower controll arms up and down and add some wiggily to it and youll be able to unscrew those lower nuts the rest of the way off. one of the lower control arms has a straight through bolt in it. take this out. once your this far you can pull the whole wheel assembaly and axle toward you. reach one of your hands in there and grab the axle mid way down to help as your pulling with your other hand on the hub. pull hard and your axle will pop out of the tranny. remember the straight through bolt you took out of the lower arm? the axle will now fall srtaight down through that. from here youll have to take the brake callipper off.

you dont have to mess with the fluid line. unbolt caliper and set aside. go to the upper controll arm. unbolt the nut and hopefully it will come off with out much trouble. the upper arm has no "sweet spot" to hit on so be carefull. once this is apart you'll have your axle, hub, and knukle to take over to the work bench. unbolt the hub off of the knukle and throw the damn axle/hub in the garbage. buy new and reassemble in reverse order. note: when you tighten the lower control arm nuts back on if the ball joint part is kinda worn the ball joint will just spin with the nut. to get it tight agin put a 17 or 18mm socket under the ball portion, its like a rubber coated round in shape peice one of the sockets will fit under there perfect. now put a floor jack under that and the socket and jack it up a ton. itll put alot of presure on this and prevent the ball joint part from spinning. youll be able to tighten it down like this. oh, and some times worn tie rod ends will spin with the nut to when your trying to tighten. a trick here is put a 22mm wrench on it and push or pull real hard puttin the ball-joint peice of the tie rod in a bind. with one hand on the 22mm just push hard and have a 17mm socket or gear wrench on your tie rod nut. if its a nylock nut, tighten to hell. if its a castle nut, line up the hole and use a new cotter pin. goodluck

 

[Mytrn2brn]

Ok, so it sounds like the only specail tool needed to remove the axle/kunkle is a pickle fork and a prybar? Also this is the first time im pulling an axle. is there any seals or anything that would need to be replaced. Nothing is leaking on the car now but im sure im gona loose some tranny fluid, might be a good time to change it to just wondering.
Thanks

 

[96eclipzGsT]

One thing to add to this thread is when you put the bearing and axle back together put anti-seize where they meet so it doesn't happen again.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Cut the damn things! I have had do it all my 95's. Then I anti-seize every contact place! After that no problem. Good Luck!

 

[knochgoon24]

Ok, so it sounds like the only specail tool needed to remove the axle/kunkle is a pickle fork and a prybar? Also this is the first time im pulling an axle. is there any seals or anything that would need to be replaced. Nothing is leaking on the car now but im sure im gona loose some tranny fluid, might be a good time to change it to just wondering.
Thanks

It wouldn't be a bad time for a new axle seal where it goes into the transmission.

 

[dsmcurse]

dude, do NOT cut a torch out and cut it. puttin the fire to it isnt neccasary. just on bolt it like i said. i gave you step by step instructions. if you lived local id come over and bang that sucker out in under a hour. garandamnteed. yeah put a lil anti seeze on there. good mention guys. forgot to say that. trust me just buy a hub and a axel. its not expensive. and if your doin the labor yourself your gonna save money. besides you own a dsm MOST all of the work needs to be done by YOU the OWNER. its a learning thing man. if you can turn your own wrenches youll have a better understanding of not just dsm but automotive world all together. not to mention for most of us the dsm is just a learner car. its a damn excellent learner car at that. we all have dreams of later in life makin more money and being able to afford to build that JDM super car. hopefully next 5 years ill be rollin a 600hp 98 Supra. but it all starts by doin it your self. get out there and just do it. its not hard unbolt the shit, buy a new hub and axel and put it back together. most of us on here could do it in a hour. if it takes you all damn day its okay man. you gotta crawl befor you can walk. plus the satisfaction gained from doin it yourself will be WAY worth it. good luck and if you have any problems just post agin. some one will give you good advice

 

[knochgoon24]

...just on bolt it like i said. i gave you step by step instructions. if you lived local id come over and bang that sucker out in under a hour. garandamnteed.

I know mine wouldn't come out, even with a sledge, and the CV joint cup was too large to fit out the hole in the spindle.

There was no "just unbolting" about it. I really would have liked to see you get it apart for me.

I should have taken pictures of the axle. The part that stuck out ended up mushrooming out (even with the nut on the top) between the nut and the hub. I don't have a torch, so I took the bench grinder to the cup.

Be careful though, all that axle grease is flammable.

NOTE: I have one more wheel bearing that hasn't been replaced yet. As rusted as it looks, I'll be ordering another axle when that bearing goes bad. I'll have to take photos and shoot videos. Maybe I can get some shots of the 15 ton press bending.

 

[dsmcurse]

i swear on a holy stack of bibles my axles and hubs were exactly as bad as yours. its totally possible to unbolt around this problem. i wish we were in the same area and i'd make it a point to come over and give ya a hand. im tellin ya you dont have to beat the shit outa it. you can remove this problem with just end wrenches and sockets. im not a master tech or nothin but i know for a fact that i could come show you how. remember, backyard wannbe mechanics cut and hack, tuners finesse. if you took it to a shop and watched a expert technician do this you would see him try the air hammer and if it didnt work then just quickly unbolt the problem. to much time will be wasted on beatin and holdin fire to it. wish i had pictures of mine from a few years back when both of mine were frozen. like i said. i easily unbolted my problem and threw the frozen hub/axle in the garbage. and with ease bolted my new stuff together.

 

[knochgoon24]

What "unbolted"? I'm really curious. Please discribe this unbolting process, because there are many people on here who have this problem. Any tips and tricks to get our rust-belt cars apart will be much appreciated.

My axle didn't fit through the knuckle with the axle attached. Not sure if it was an aftermarket one, or if that's just how they are stock. There was the CV Joint cup on one side and the hub on the other. There were no bolts to magically undo and fix it.

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Two shops told me that I either had to grind the cup down, or torch it apart.
The one was the shop that quoted me $400 in labor to swap the wheel bearing in the first place. They said their press wouldn't have got it out, and as rusted as that whole front suspension assembly was, they figured it would be an 8+ hour job. <- That shop never does any of my work. I just have them tell me what's wrong for state inspections and I fix it.