Fresh Start

[BLINKY619]

Ok to start off. ive been a member here for a bit. i used to own a 97 eclipse gst.. sold it and just got away from the dsm scene for about a year.. i have a spare motor thats been siting here just collecting dust. its a 7 bolt block with a 7 bolt head. i have the pistons and everything that came with it..

Im looking towards a minor rebuild. just bearings, gaskets, rings. etc.

Now for my question... i noticed that the crank has a lil play. now ive searched here for clearances. but cant seem to find a good thread. jus a lil worried since its a 7 bolt...

Im also looking to shoot for around 350whp..!!!

 

[5150DSM]

95-99 7 bolt.

Crankshaft end play - STD - 0.05-0.18mm (.0020-.0071") Limit - 0.25mm (.0098")

 

[BLINKY619]

damn..!!! i guess im good... also another question is if its by the limit, after i put new bearings, it should still have play or should it be snug?

 

[Black95awd]

It will still have end play, but it *should be* within spec.

 

[nolen117]

Had the same problem about a year ago, still runs perfect.

 

[BLINKY619]

UPDATE!!! I already ordered my gasket set from extremepsi. i decided to do the bottom end first! other than that ive been lookin into piston rings. now thats my concern.

i can get them at the dealer but they are 272 for the whole set.. so i wanted some input on were i could get them somewere cheaper. ive already searched and cant find much. thanks!!!!

 

[BLINKY619]

UPDATE!!! just ordered:
STM balance shaft eliminator kit
arp headstuds from stm
arp rod bolts
BLE timing belt tensioner

I have a few questions. i tried getting rod bearings and they said they had 2 different ones. 97 gst. early june or late june. i dont know ### it is. i dont have the car anymore so im stuck with knowing witch one it is!!!! now my next question.
ive always done a valve job at a friends shop. but i figured id try lapping the valves myself. now i would like to know if its worth it.!!! a little history on the head is it had a round 140 thousand miles on it. it was never overheated. never leaked.

the motor was running fine just took it apart to replace all gaskets..

my last question is. i was going through rre and they have 2 headgaskets im interested in. there is a factory metal heagasket and a mitsubishi 4g63 stock headgasket, its a 70 dollar difference so anyones help will really help.!!!

 

[BurrowZ]

For your power goals, I would use either an OEM composite or Felpro headgasket.

I've been using my Felpro for a long time now, it sees 22+ psi nearly every day and not a single problem with it (I have ARP studs, of course)

The best part is that it was VERY cheap compared to OEM.

There are tons of informational threads for headgaskets on this site if you want more input.

 

[BLINKY619]

thanks ive searched liked no tomorrow about felpro heagaskets. and it seems to be a pretty good gasket. i was also looking into a cometic mls headgasket. what you think?

 

[BLINKY619]

UPDATE!!! Just took a few pictures. before i sent it to the machine shop. the block is getting resurfaced! Im hoping to get it back tomorrow!!!!!

theres a bit of scoring on the main bearing surface

 

[Str8Tune]

Ya I'd definitely say it looks a little scored

 

[BLINKY619]

Ya I'd definitely say it looks a little scored

yea i know. i wonder if a micro polish will help?

I just got the block back from the machne shop!!! looks fresh!!!!

i also just received my lower end gasket set!!!

sorry for the pictures my camera sucks at night..

Ok now for the rings and bearings. I still need some input on them..

 

[dsmvenge]

is that rust in the cylinder walls still?

 

[Tyeler18]

I'd probably get that thing bored out. Looks like it could use it. As far as pistons/rings go, there's a company on EBay that sells NPR (direct OEM pistons) for $80 shipped with rings. Or you can buy the rings themselves for $30. NPR, in case you didn't know, was the company who made the factory pistons, so these are the exact same ones you'd get if you were ordering them from satan.

 

[BLINKY619]

is that rust in the cylinder walls still?

yea i only honed 1 cylinder. I was actually thinking about boring it 20 over..

i'd probably get that thing bored out. Looks like it could use it. As far as pistons/rings go, there's a company on ebay that sells npr (direct oem pistons) for $80 shipped with rings. Or you can buy the rings themselves for $30. Npr, in case you didn't know, was the company who made the factory pistons, so these are the exact same ones you'd get if you were ordering them from satan.

i may get oversize pistons!!!

 

[bryanwheat]

Hone all the cylinders to where you get a good crosshatch than measure them and the pistons to get a ptw clearance. I'd try to not exceed .0025-.003 on that with a cast piston. For the crank that will need to be turned. It's hard to say whether or not a bearing will help with your thrust problem. Most of the time the thrust surface on the crankshaft will be damaged and either need machined and a wider thrust bearing installed or replaced all together.

 

[BLINKY619]

Hone all the cylinders to where you get a good crosshatch than measure them and the pistons to get a ptw clearance. I'd try to not exceed .0025-.003 on that with a cast piston. For the crank that will need to be turned. It's hard to say whether or not a bearing will help with your thrust problem. Most of the time the thrust surface on the crankshaft will be damaged and either need machined and a wider thrust bearing installed or replaced all together.

looks like it would be better if i just bore it.. i didnt want to but seems to need it

 

[BLINKY619]

Ok people. i decided to go 20 over. im shooting for around 350whp so im pretty sure the stock 2g pistons can get there with no problem... now i came across a set of pistons and ring set. and im pretty interested in them, now i dont want to get them if they are trash. so a i would appreciate the help.

heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-99-Mitsu...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

[reyg]

In your first post I see you said you sold the car and just have the block, are you throwing this into another dsm?

 

[WES_393]

NPR pistons are a good OEM replacement. The pistons aren't the limiting factor in a stock 7-bolt, the rods are. So 350hp shouldn't be an issue with these pistons.

 

[BLINKY619]

thanks man. it was a minute before someone gave me some info..

In your first post I see you said you sold the car and just have the block, are you throwing this into another dsm?

yea those are my plans.

 

[reyg]

Nice as unfortunate as it is there are always rollers coming up for sale and what bot. Good luck.

 

[BLINKY619]

update. i was gonna take my head to get it resurfaced. and noticed that most of my valve guides are cracked in 2 or 3 spots on each one!!!

looks like imma have to dig in a little deeper in the rebuild. time for some new valve guides, might as well get valves and springs. im gonna do a little more research on a few sets, other than that. what do you guys think? i would love some ideas from anyone involving valvetrain components.!!!!

 

[Mr PopUps]

UPDATE!!! Just took a few pictures. before i sent it to the machine shop. the block is getting resurfaced! Im hoping to get it back tomorrow!!!!!

theres a bit of scoring on the main bearing surface

Please tell me you didnt have the block decked? Mitsu makes a zero deck block meaning at top dead center the pistons are well, even with top of the block (they actually peak over a smidgen but the head gasket makes up for that). Theres a reason the pistons have reliefs for the valves. You take anything off the surface and youll pop that head or smash rods before you get to fire it up.

yea i know. i wonder if a micro polish will help?

I just got the block back from the machne shop!!! looks fresh!!!!

i also just received my lower end gasket set!!!

sorry for the pictures my camera sucks at night..

Ok now for the rings and bearings. I still need some input on them..

This just gets worse and worse. You can only polish a crank, that needs to be turned, and turning a DSM crank is a big no-no ESPECIALLY the 2G 7 bolt cranks! I would go Federal Mogul on the rings and Clevite 77's on the bearings. That is, once you find a good 7 bolt crank. Make sure you color match it to the bearings, there is no such thing as a standard size on a 7 bolt motor, sad to say.

update. i was gonna take my head to get it resurfaced. and noticed that most of my valve guides are cracked in 2 or 3 spots on each one!!!

looks like imma have to dig in a little deeper in the rebuild. time for some new valve guides, might as well get valves and springs. im gonna do a little more research on a few sets, other than that. what do you guys think? i would love some ideas from anyone involving valvetrain components.!!!!

Springs are more than likely reusable, but yes get new valve guides. If the valves are straight reuse them unless you go 1mm over, no reason in replacing them if they havent hit the pistons. Have the whole head gone over, magnafluxed etc etc etc. A reputable shop would do no less on every piece they touch.

 

[BogusSVO]

Please tell me you didnt have the block decked? Mitsu makes a zero deck block meaning at top dead center the pistons are well, even with top of the block (they actually peak over a smidgen but the head gasket makes up for that). Theres a reason the pistons have reliefs for the valves. You take anything off the surface and youll pop that head or smash rods before you get to fire it up..

WRONG... Most blocks I have measured with the stock rods/pistons/crank the Pistons sit .003-.007
Matter a fact, just measured a 6 bolt last eve, #1 was .011 and #4 was .002 in the hole. Want to see the pics?

This just gets worse and worse. You can only polish a crank, that needs to be turned, and turning a DSM crank is a big no-no ESPECIALLY the 2G 7 bolt cranks! I would go Federal Mogul on the rings and Clevite 77's on the bearings. That is, once you find a good 7 bolt crank. Make sure you color match it to the bearings, there is no such thing as a standard size on a 7 bolt motor, sad to say.

The diffrence is miniscule, in the .000236 range
.006mm X .03937 = .000236


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So with this, and as many rebuilt engines that are done and running, with many diffrent bearings, ACL, Clevite, King and ebay bearings in the stock rebuilds that are all over the place.

How can you even say this?

Springs are more than likely reusable, but yes get new valve guides. If the valves are straight reuse them unless you go 1mm over, no reason in replacing them if they havent hit the pistons. Have the whole head gone over, magnafluxed etc etc etc. A reputable shop would do no less on every piece they touch.

Here again you are WRONG,
It is common for the valve springs to be weak
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

Here again , I have a set on the work table, used 2g appox 140k miles on them, they test between 48-52 lbs @ 1.560 installed height

This us how I test them..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

If the guides are not cracked, or worn excessively, let them be.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html

Also an Aluminum head can not be magnafluxed for cracks, it has to be pressure tested.
Cast Iron gets magnafluxed.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html