FP Green install, Zero Boost

[gsxjoe]

I have an issue that I believe I have figured out, but would like to ask for some opinions on the matter.

I just got finished up this past week installing an FP Green and manifold along with a Punishment recirculated O2 housing. After I got everything installed and primed the turbo with oil(cranking it with injectors unplugged) I attempted to go for a drive. I started off smooth, then tried to give it some gas and nothing, won't even go above 0, vacuum reads good around 15hg. Oh, I did burp my cooling system, and replace all the fluids and plugs.

According to my logger I am showing 0 to -2 timing, which really should not effect boost at all, I did a boost leak test, was good there and finally came to the forums and did a search on "new turbos, no boost" and a lot of the issued seemed to be wastegate related. I checked the wastegate and all the fittings are correct and the hoses are tight. Doesn't the turbo need a wastegate in order to build some boost?

I am really curious to see if this is the problem or not, if anybody has any other ideas as to what it is, please let me know.


I am pulling oil from filter housing and installed all new water lines for the turbo as well as the big blue FP dump tube, MTX-L wideband and new boost gauge.

Thanks in advance!


Edit* Seeing as how a lot of people only read the first couple posts, I removed the bad information regarding my issue. *

 

[gsxjoe]

I am in school this morning and as soon as I get home I will perform another boost leak test this time using an AIR Compressor as opposed to a ghetto bike pump. Probably not my smartest idea and definitely an epic fail on my part.

When I found the leak in my upper IC pipe, instead of just leaving things where they were and performing another leak test I messed with the wastegate; when I reinstalled it I did not seat in correctly thereby giving me a fairly good sized exhaust leak. I have it seated correctly this time.

I apologize to everybody that has helped me thus far, and would like to say that I have learned my lesson on cutting corners, even on something as simple as a boost leak test.

Surely if your waist gate is stuck shut it would cause a boost spike?
Are you doing a boost leak test from the turbo or TB? Try both.
Is your boost gauge reading anything when you are pumping air into the system?

Also we might be looking at this all wrong. I noticed you changed to a GM maf and translator. Could be this or a fuelling problem

When you mean from the throttle body, are you talking about putting my coupling there and pressurizing my intake manifold and seeing if my boost gauges has a reading?

My gm maft was installed when I had the 20g and I have not made any adjustments, as far as my fuel system goes, besides a 255 and my injectors everything else is stock. I plan on upgraded my fpr at the beginning of Oct.

 

[16g DSM]

Just to clear things up here.

External Wastegate off of the o2 sensor housing = No flapper in the turbo hotside
External Wastegate off of the exhaust manifold = Flapper is welded shut​

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The flex section collapsing can be a symptom of little boost, not no boost. If the flex section collapsed to the point that no exhaust gases could pass through it you'd have more problems then 0psi of boost.

My money is on a missing valve seat ring on your external wastegate, thats the only thing it could possibly be.

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GOOD CALL!! I would put money on that!

 

[debbie]

I've heard people doing boost leak tests from the TB but i must confess i do all mine from the turbo. It was just a thought?
Can you explain what happens when you do a boost leak test. In that, does it stay at 20psi or does it go down and If so how fast?

Can you hear anything if you take the oil filler cap of and put you ear close to the hole? Again next time you do one, try looking at your boost gauge and see if it is reading anything.

Oh and if you could take more pics of the way you have things set up now, might help some eagle eyed member spot somethig. A pic of the whole engine bay might help also.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

When doing a boost leak test, use 40-50psi of air into the system! Then spray soapy water around every single crack/crevice/connection within the path that the air flows. And don't worry about breaking anything with 50psi of air. It's just air. Won't hurt anything. But I guarantee this. If it don't leak at 50psi, it sure as hell won't leak at 20psi. Also, after you pressurize your intake system, look at the boost gauge and see if it holds the air, or leaks down.

An FYI. If you DO use 50psi of air, might want to take a 2x4 and brace it between the boost leak tester at the turbo inlet and the inner fenderwell. Shit makes a really really really loud pop when the tester coupler/cap flies off

 

[gsxjoe]

Okay, found my leak. Well, the wastegate was stuck too but I got it unstuck.

The vacuum connected to my BOV was leaking! But only if the hose was moved certain ways. I know it sounds messed up. But when I did the first boost leak test and pressurized the system to 20psi there was no leaks, then I went and messed around and tried to drive and still no boost. I ended up having to turn my bov a little and I redo the vacuum line in order to get the big ole fp intake to fit. That created some slack on the vacuum line and when I did another pressure today after class, I got it up to about 25 psi before she blew! My boost gauge was showing the correct pressure and was dropping really slowly.

Basically I have the smallest vacuum hose that I can put on that nipple and it was still not enough, I ended up using some super 33 tape and two zip ties to keep it secure.

It was really weird that it would only leak when the hose was pointed a certain way.
So I had a few problems and thanks to you all was able to get them all fixed.

Now before I get any death threats or hate mail;

After getting the timing set right and my idle just perfect I proceeded to try and get a good base tune. Once the wideband was showing 14-15 and my 02 was cycling between .5 and .80 I decided it was time to give it another try and go for a test drive. I went to close my hood and noticed there was some water by my alternator and low and behold! My freaking water pump went out...

So no test drive for me until I get the water pump and timing redone...


Again, sorry for any misleading posts and thanks for all the help.

I fairly confident that once I get these issues fixed I'll be back on the road

 

[awdwhip]

Wow, epic fail!

 

[gsxjoe]

I know right? , fix one problem only to encounter another...the big guy hates me...for sure... all good though, I replaced the water pump and timing belt before, so it shouldn't be too hard, and that was before I had a logger. Now that I know the logger grounds out somethings, should go pretty smooth and shoud be back on the road by Sunday.

 

[rEclipserGST]

I used a air compressor for the first boost leak test, and the little psi gauge hooked to the end of the tester shows 20psi, but maybe it is faulty. Air is air, whether I'm using an air compressor or a hand pump. If it is that serious then I will go pressurize the system with the compressor again and see where I'm at.

False. Same way turbo puts out more or less air. Same with air compressor or bike pump.

You do know it is lbs PER SQ. INCH, correct? That's kind of a lot, just saying.

Fix your newly found issues, as well as the ones we have been trying to pinpoint. G-luck. Btw, Videos help a TON.

 

[bryanwheat]

Before pulling the timing cover make sure that it isn't the o ring on the water pipe leaking. Usually if it just randomly starts leaking in the front it is the o ring.

When doing a boost leak test, use 40-50psi of air into the system! Then spray soapy water around every single crack/crevice/connection within the path that the air flows. And don't worry about breaking anything with 50psi of air. It's just air. Won't hurt anything. But I guarantee this. If it don't leak at 50psi, it sure as hell won't leak at 20psi. Also, after you pressurize your intake system, look at the boost gauge and see if it holds the air, or leaks down.

An FYI. If you DO use 50psi of air, might want to take a 2x4 and brace it between the boost leak tester at the turbo inlet and the inner fenderwell. Shit makes a really really really loud pop when the tester coupler/cap flies off

40-50 is totally un necessary. You do know that when you have 50 psi inside a chamber there is 50 lbs for every square inch pushing on it from the inside. Compressed air can definitely cause things to burst that aren't made to hold that kind of pressure. It's just air though, it can't hurt anything.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

40-50 is totally un necessary. You do know that when you have 50 psi inside a chamber there is 50 lbs for every square inch pushing on it from the inside. Compressed air can definitely cause things to burst that aren't made to hold that kind of pressure. It's just air though, it can't hurt anything.

Luckily just about everything in our systems that see that much can hold it. I've been using 50-60psi to boost leak test my cars for a long time and never ran into any problems related to excessive pressure.

 

[bryanwheat]

It's all good until the tested comes flying off and smacks you in the face or something. Also i've had intercoolers crack welds at around 25 psi before.

 

[banishedmunk]

I test my stuff at 45psi. I want to know if my whole system will be integrally sound.

If your splitting welds on intercoolers at 25psi you need to find a different brand intercooler.

 

[gsxjoe]

False. Same way turbo puts out more or less air. Same with air compressor or bike pump.

You do know it is lbs PER SQ. INCH, correct? That's kind of a lot, just saying.

Fix your newly found issues, as well as the ones we have been trying to pinpoint. G-luck. Btw, Videos help a TON.

Your right, not sure what I was thinking, but I was able to find the problem and get everything fixed, minus my stupid waterpump, but that's a whole other issue that will be fixed this weekend and I should be back on the road.

I have been watching a ton of videos on how turbocharger systems work and thanks to some other members I think I have gained a fairly good understanding now of what's going on.

Thanks again all!

 

[NvDiS]

Curious if this ever got fixed, im having the same problem