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For those of you afraid to use a holset

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But most importantly how are you making that much boost at 3700RPM! I'm at 3psi at 3700 rpm. :confused: Will be interesting to see what the .70 housing nets you...

I think its because our wastegates start to open way before our peak boost, that slows the spool alot
 
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I'm at 3psi at 3700 rpm. :confused: Will be interesting to see what the .70 housing nets you...

Which EM and housing are you running?

EDIT: I just saw it in your profile. Methinks you have something strange going on there if you are spooling that slowly.



With the FP Race manifold and BEP bolt-on, I routinely see 20psi or more at 4k, and hit 15psi between 3600-3800rpm.

Here's a screen grab of a 20psi pull from a couple of days ago. Note that this is without any tuning done to decrease spool time, so there is probably 100-150rpm or so of improvement that could be made.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
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Which EM and housing are you running?

EDIT: I just saw it in your profile. Methinks you have something strange going on there if you are spooling that slowly.



With the FP Race manifold and BEP bolt-on, I routinely see 20psi or more at 4k, and hit 15psi between 3600-3800rpm.

Here's a screen grab of a 20psi pull from a couple of days ago. Note that this is without any tuning done to decrease spool time, so there is probably 100-150rpm or so of improvement that could be made.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'll start a new thread I don't want to crap this guys up... But any and all suggestions appreciated...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...spooling-hx-40-suggestions.html#post152796268
 
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so you were running the internally gated bep housing? how was that holding up? any problems with boost control?
i ask because i want to run an hx35 with bep internal wastegate in the future and i don't have all the money in the world to run an external setup at the moment.
 
The problem I ran into was the wastegate flapper would blow open from the exhaust pressure in the housing at high rpm. I tried stronger holset acuators but they would only get me to around 23psi up top, and the hx40 laughs at that
 
so 23 psi was all you could get out of the internal gate? i don't plan on running anything over 25 psi so that just might work for me.
 
how did you know, LOL, my fathers a licensed plumber and im going to school for my license. And the wastegate isjust until i get an external, I took the holset acuator that came with my hx40 and cut it to lenght then threaded it. I took a piece of flat stock steel and welded it to the o2 housing and flipped the wastegate arm on the exhaust housing up so it would work from the oppisite side. It works well but now i see why they dont make them with internal gates anymore, cant really get more then 25psi steady out of it before it blows open. I wish i knew that before i went through the truoble of taking the flapper out of my old bullseye 57trim housing:rolleyes:

Im telling you being a plumber pays off having one of these cars LOL
 
i have been doing alot of reading about the hx35 that after it gets rebuild will be running. what i want to know is whats the best bep. housing to run with what manifold to get quickest spool possible. im not going for maximum power our of this turbo just fast reaction if needed(its going to be a daily)

.55 a/r mitsu bolt on housing
or
t3 housing.

and i plan going external w/g

also is there an actual kit to use for oil feed to satisfy this turbo in our cars?
 
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Shes back up and running!!!! Oil pressure in check:hellyeah: T3 status ftw

So starting out at say 3k in third gear and going WOT what RPM do you see 10lbs or so and what rpm do you see peak boost? I still think I'm missing something with my slow spool issue.
 
The t3 is a .70. So the mitsu housing will spool the fastest.

You don't need a kit to supply the correct amount of oil. You need a 3/8bspt to 4an adapter 4AN x 3/8"NPT 90* Filter Housing Fitting - DSM Classifieds

and 2.5ft of stainless line

a restrictor fitting. http://www.parker.com/literature/Tube Fittings Division/orificefittings.pdf

and a way to measure pressure while fine tuning restrictor size JEGS Performance Products 110531 Fuel Pressure Gauge In-Line Adapter Fittings
got it so where would that in-line adapter go(between the ofh and turbo)? and for what i read the .78 restrictor is the one to start with if your running squirters but no b/s right?
 
I have the best way to make a restrictor, just take the an fitting that goes into the turbo and tap threads the hole that the oil flows through with a 10-32 tap. Get a little allen set screw with 10-32 threads and drill the set screw to whatever restictor you want. This way if you need to go smaller with the restrictor just un thread the set screw and put a new one in:thumb: And Spawn, If you could some how get those girls in you avatar along with your car to my shop in Jersey id be glad to help you put that turbo in LOL.
 

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If you tap it right at the Turbo, then you have no way of measuring the pressure. You can use the same method but on the ofh adapter.

I use a .082 with 20psi at idle and around 75psi at redline using this mehtod. And its not the pressure you need to worry about at the turbo its the flow;)
 
red1993gsallmt I'm assuming you're using a BEP Mitsubishi .55 A/R flanged exhaust base off of your picture but please be aware several people have had problem with the BEP bolt-on housing.

Although you've improved the turbo oil flow some argue that .55 A/R is too small and creates a lot of back pressure and will end up destroying the turbine and the housing. Pay very close attention phantom knocks!

PM talonracer12 for more info about this.
 
OFH > 90* adapter > restrictor > pressure sensor T > stainless line > turbo
got it :thumb:
I have the best way to make a restrictor, just take the an fitting that goes into the turbo and tap threads the hole that the oil flows through with a 10-32 tap. Get a little allen set screw with 10-32 threads and drill the set screw to whatever restictor you want. This way if you need to go smaller with the restrictor just un thread the set screw and put a new one in:thumb: And Spawn, If you could some how get those girls in you avatar along with your car to my shop in Jersey id be glad to help you put that turbo in LOL.
using your method of mad science just might be the way its cheap and quick to redo :hellyeah: as for the girls these are the pg 13 rated girls there were better ones at other car shows i went to and since im the only active dsm on the shows i gets all the dsm glory LOL :D
I'd go bigger than .078" if you're going to be running a lot of boost...unless you're sure the oil pressure is way in excess of 100psi.
well i dont remember what my pressure is at a full pull cause my gauge broke (just bough a new digital one) so that .078 should be a good starting point till i get the car running again and am able to see what kind of pressure im running. what oil should i run since its a new engine still pretty much. i read you run 15-w40 but i dont know if thats the one i should run also cause of less miles. was thinking 10-w40

and i send you a pm about rebuilding the hx35, tsimage told me you could give me all info needed to run this turbo the right way.
 
red1993gsallmt I'm assuming you're using a BEP Mitsubishi .55 A/R flanged exhaust base off of your picture but please be aware several people have had problem with the BEP bolt-on housing.

Although you've improved the turbo oil flow some argue that .55 A/R is too small and creates a lot of back pressure and will end up destroying the turbine and the housing. Pay very close attention phantom knocks!

PM talonracer12 for more info about this.

I switched to the t3 .70, never had an issue with the .55 at 30-35psi for 15,000 mi
 
No logs yet but HOLY CRAP!!! Just got on her for the first time tonight and its night and day vs the .55!!!! I know it for a fact, I just did a couple 2nd-4th gear pulls vs my buddys 135mph malibu, sent him back to the drawing board LOL
 
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