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Finally Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket [Merged 7-9]

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oh
i was under the impression that the 420a was used in the 1g cars also
thanks for clearing that up
 
Real quick question... I wish to take off my valve cover to sand blast it and paint it... Is the gasket re-usable? or do i have to buy a new one? :confused: not that is matters too much, I just don't wanna spend 30 bucks on a new one...
 
Don't sand or bead blast the valve cover. It's not worth the risk that some of the media gets left behind somewhere and finds it way to the wrong place.

Use aircraft stripper or have it cold tanked at the local machine shop.

If the gasket is hard and stiff replace it. The gasket need to be soft anf pliable to seal. Remember on a 4G63 you put a max of 3ft lbs torque on the bolts for the valve cover. If you try and force it to seal you'll just crack the cover.

Steve
 
steve said:
Don't sand or bead blast the valve cover. It's not worth the risk that some of the media gets left behind somewhere and finds it way to the wrong place.

Use aircraft stripper or have it cold tanked at the local machine shop.

If the gasket is hard and stiff replace it. The gasket need to be soft anf pliable to seal. Remember on a 4G63 you put a max of 3ft lbs torque on the bolts for the valve cover. If you try and force it to seal you'll just crack the cover.

Steve

He is right. If you must sandblast do not do under the cover and make sure that no glass beads get into the baffling or oil passages. I bought a nice powdercoated valve cover off ebay a few years back. Two months later spun a rod bearing and blew the turbo seals. While the engine was getting rebuilded I washed the valvecover and to my dismay, tons of glass beads and grit came out of the baffle area. :cry: :cry: :cry: That valve cover ended up costing me $$$$$$$. :mad:
 
Thanks guys for the advise on sand blasting... Ill be sure to be extra careful when doing it and wash it off reall good when Im done... any suggestions on what type of paint to use??????
 
Can you use a valve cover gasket from any year 4G63? I was using my CAPS program, and when you locate the part number for a 2G gasket, it says it works on any year 4G63. But when you locate the part number for a 1G gasket, it gives you two options, 6-bolt and 7-bolt. What's the deal? Seems like you could use any year since the valve covers are the same. Or are they....
 
I've had this problem too...well kinda. Doing some "research" at work I found different Fel-Pro part numbers listed for 6 bolt and 7 bolt years. Never did figure out why, maybe somebody can shed some light on this.
 
I just RTV'ed mine when i did some work and it worked like a charm. Everybody says its stupid to do that and it will leak eventually, well so what. It cost me like $2 for the high temp sealant and if i have to reseal it once a year then im not complainin. :thumb:
 
ok, i have a 95 talon esi, 122,000 miles, automatic. Well my oil is burning, im gettin white smoke from my exhaust. and im looked up on here that maybe i should get a valve gasket cover. well im going to do that, but where do i get one, any good companies or anything that i should consider, or just get a shitty one off ebay cheap, and could i put it on myself, or should i get somone to do it? im just tryin to figgure out how much money this is going to cost me. oh, and including gettin a new gasket cover, should i get anything else to help this prob of mine? thanks Jen :D
 
If you are blowing white smoke while you're driving, you're most likely burning coolant. Do a compression test.
 
Does your car run like shit? If so, your compression probably sucks due to a blown HG. Like said before, do a compression test and if one cylinder totally sucks and thee rest are alright, is it the HG.

Also, it could be your valve seals, but they tend to go around 140k, causing you to burn oil at idle and take-off. When does the car burn oil and smoke?

Another possibility is your PCV valve, check it to see if it's working, or clogged up.


And last to answer your question... www.machv.com sells valve cover gaskets, but I would bet that isn't you problem.
 
yeah my car is startin to run like shit, how do i do a compression test? professinally or do it myself? and what do i start to do to fix blown HG, and how much is that all going to cost? my car does to tend to burn oil at idle, and take off, bad, so i bet its more of tha. and what am i going to do to fix valve seals? and what about a clogged PCV valve? i just want to fix the damn thing and just drive LOL
 
Well if it is running like shit and keeps getting worse it probably is a blown head gasket. If you don't have a compression tester, take it to someone and have them perform a compression test. If the compression is noticiably lower in one of the three cylinders, then it is a blown headgasket.

The PCV valve is a 8mm rubber hose running off the (left?) side of yout valve cover into the intake pipe, I'm not certain where it is on a 420a motor. That could be clogged up, just take it off and replace it, or clean it if the headgasket isn't the problem.

And valve seals, I do not know how to diagnose them, someone else will have to chime in.

Good luck.
 
Game Over said:
The PCV valve is a 8mm rubber hose running off the (left?) side of yout valve cover into the intake pipe, I'm not certain where it is on a 420a motor. That could be clogged up, just take it off and replace it, or clean it if the headgasket isn't the problem.

And valve seals, I do not know how to diagnose them, someone else will have to chime in.

Good luck.

That's the breather valve, pcv valve is the other one on the valve cover that routes back to the intake. As for the valve seals, if the compression numbers are good and you're still burnning oil after you change the pcv valve, the valve seals are probably worn. I would suggest you take the car to a mechanic you trust and ask them to do a compression and leak down test before you come to any conclusions. Good luck.
 
I'll give some background info first. About 3 months ago, while changing my oil, I noticed what looked like oil, on the underside of the transmission and on the other components in that area. I thought maybe it was just built up road dirt, etc. So I told myself that I would keep and eye on it. Well winter came, and it being cold, I started to slack off on checking on my car. So just recently, actually yesterday, I changed my oil. I noticed the "oil" down and around that area again. So I started to inspect a bit more. I look around down there, but don't really see anything obvious. After I drained the oil and put on the new filter, I began to put in the new oil (Mobil 1) :thumb: And then I noticed what looked like a yellowish brown discoloration around and below the valve cover. So at this point I'm like wtf? I take my finger and wipe it around where the gasket is and underneath it on the block. I look at my finger, and sure enough, well I'm pretty sure, theres oil. So I'm thinking, this is just great. I thought about what it could be, and the only thing I can think of, giving my limited experience, is the valve cover gasket.

So today, I get up, and decide to go check my spark plugs, because I've been experiencing what seems like mis-fire lately. The car stutters when I am on the pedal 3/4 to WOT. Not like boost issues, just doesn't feel like it. So I take off my spark plug cover, and what do I find? A nice small puddle of motor oil. I thought back to yesterday, to think if I might have spilled any while putting it in, but I didn't. Besides, this looks like its been used, its dark and dirty looking. So now I'm confused, because I don't understand how oil gets up in that little landing. I took out plug number 4, and it was dry, a little carbon, but nothing unusual. So this is where I'm at fellas. I'm not sure what it could be, and I figured I would ask you guys/girls what you think, before I decide to take it to get looked at. If you have any questions, hit me up in here, a PM, or on AIM at alienimports. Thanks for any help.
 
The puddle in the valve cover is either from the valve cover gasket or the oil cap. I did both to my car and it slowed the puddle considerably but still did not stop it entirely. Then, I took the valve cover bolts out of the middle of the cover and stuck RTV down in the bolt holes and on the bolts. It's never leaked again. The oil cap gasket and the valve cover gasket harden and become brittle over time and don't seal as good as they should. The oil cap gasket has to come from a Mitsubishi dealer but it's only about $1.75. The valve cover gasket is a little more and you can get it from Carquest for sure. When you put the new oil cap gasket on, put it over top the old one. The old one acts as a spacer now and gives the cap a tighter fit on the valve cover with the new gasket on.
 
You've got the right idea with the valve cover gasket (although I think I got mine for about $15 from Carquest) but you can actually get the gasket seperate from the oil cap. It's just a thin rubber gasket disc with a hole in the middle. Pick it up at the local Mitsubishi dealer.
 
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