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Finally Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket [Merged 7-9]

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Don't ever buy a cheap e-Bay valve cover gasket...Or any cheap e-Bay gaskets, for that matter.

While I was re-building my motor, the one and only gasket I purchased from e-Bay was the valve cover gasket because I couldn't see myself paying almost $50 for a Fel-Pro. I think I payed like ~$20 shipped. Well last night I noticed a few drops of oil on the garage floor. Got underneath the car and saw the timing belt cover. It had a few good sized drops on the bottom of it (right behind the crank pulley), where it contacts the front cover assembly.

I got it all cleaned up, every bit of it. Started the car up and I literally laid under it for about 30minutes and couldn't see any leaks anywhere. After thinking about it, I decided to pull off the upper timing cover. Looking at the valve cover (still bolted to the head), I noticed the gasket was literally ripped in 4 different places. 2 of which were on the timing belt side...

I came to the conclusion that it was probably spraying out of the rips while under boost.

My timing belt was covered in oil and so was the inside of the upper cover. So a "small" oil leak turned into a big project. Went and got a new timing belt and a GOOD quality Fel-Pro valve cover gasket along with a new P/S and alternator belt. Took the whole driver's side of the motor apart, cleaned up every bit of oil everywhere. I got the new timing belt on, along with the new valve cover gasket (also re-torqued my ARP head studs since I'm coming up on almost 1,500mi on the new motor).

I could actually see and feel the difference in the two valve cover gaskets. The cheap e-Bay one was as hard as a brick and didn't look as good (quality wise) as the Fel-Pro one does.

So stay away from the "OEM QUALITY!!!" "Guaranteed to fit!!" "Top-quality Rice-A-Magic OEM spec SUPER GASKET!" lines and stick with reputable gaskets, seals and belts. Or any part.

Hope this could save someone a headache in the future.

Steve
 
Try partsdinosaur.com they are much cheaper. Then again if you are careful and use some RTV you could seal the valve cover with a piece of string, or actually you could do it better with just RTV.

Also use a decent thread title, this one sucks for anyone that ever wants to know about valve cover gaskets and does a search.
 
Older thread, but i did not feel the need to start a new thread for this question.

I have sent my valve cover off to be powder coated and have already purchased the new gasket kit.

I replaced the valve cover gasket, half moon and spark plug gaskets less than a year ago. When I just took the vc off, the gaskets still felt nice, not hard or cracked by any means.

I am going to order 3G lifters soon, and I was thinking that I could just reuse the gaskets until I get the 3G's in which will be less than 2 weeks. I would put the new gaskets in when the 3G's are installed.

I dd my DSM, but only to work and back.
 
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I am going to order 3G lifters soon, and I was thinking that I could just reuse the gaskets until I get the 3G's in which will be less 2 weeks. I would put the new gaskets in when the 3G's are installed.

I dd my DSM, but only to work and back.

You'll have to be the judge if the gaskets have hardened. If you're wrong you will be doing the job twice. I have taken my VC off and put it back on using the existing gaskets, but the gaskets were less than 10k miles old. Be sure to clean off the old silicone sealer and use new silicone in the areas the service manual indicates. I like to use the gray sealer because it matches the color of the OEM sealer and any that shows blends into the color of the aluminum VC and head.

The most important detail is to make sure all six gaskets seat flat and all the bolts are evenly torqued. I always use an in/lbs torque wrench but some find this tool hard to find. Lacking the torque wrench I would use a 1/4 in drive spin-tight driver instead of a socket wrench. You'll be surprised how little torque 30 in/lbs really is. It's less than 4 ft/lbs. It's very easy to over tighten and crack the VC.
 
Thank you for the very detailed response.

The gaskets seem very good, there is no signs of cracking and they feel just like the day I put them in.

Where did you find your inch/lb torque wrench?

Thanks again toojung,

Jayson
 
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Where did you find your inch/lb torque wrench?

I got it from the tool catalog my employer provides for high-tech screwdriver jockeys. There is no end to the odd-ball specialized tools I need. If I needed a torque wrench that measured newton/meters I would have it. Your best bet is to search online and find a store that sells the in/lbs torque wrench in your city. But, for as often as you'll be doing a VC gasket replacement I would go with a gentle wrist torque using a screwdriver handle nut driver (spin-tight). Don't get over zealous with making it real tight. The elasticity of the gasket and sealer in the right spots makes the seal work.
 
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