The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Finally, Build time!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

My instructions say that I do have to shave a little of the VC for the fuel rail and also from the IM for the injectors.

sounds like thats talking about the primary injectors. we did shave some off the IM and a little off the VC and its fits up fine. But for some reason the secondary injectors are leaking where it meets up the secondary Hahn fuel rail.
 
sounds like thats talking about the primary injectors. we did shave some off the IM and a little off the VC and its fits up fine. But for some reason the secondary injectors are leaking where it meets up the secondary Hahn fuel rail.

Make sure the O-rings are tight and that the rail wasn't poorly machined.
 
Update:

So the fuel problem is fixed, it was a tightness issue. but now there is a new problem and i need some suggestions from you guys. Everything is put on and the shop went to start the car, but there is no signal coming from the crank. I have a brand new crank sensor so i know its not that. do you think it could be an interference issue with either the MSD ignition or the AF/X computer? once this problem is fixed the car is done so any help would be HUGELY appreciated. thanks guys
 
I'll almost bet that the sensor didn't click in all the way, worst comes to worst tell them to unplug and plug it back in again. ....other than that re check the timing marks
 
they checked the timing and said it appears to be in correct time, when you turn the key ignition fires but the crank gets not signal. so its alteast trying to fire up. anyways when i talked to them today they are checking the sensor to make sure its not fried. hopefully they will get it fixed. so close, and yet, so far away.
 
I broke my motor in by using non-detergent 30w oil. ND oil had no addatives which allows the rings to seat quicker. This was how I was told by the machine shop and I also researched it on the internet and others do it this way too. Fill the motor with HOT water right before you start it. I was told to NOT let the car idle. Right when you start it rev the motor from 2500-3000 rpms for 15 mins straight. DO NOT drive the car with 30w ND oil in it. After reving it for 15mins, shut the motor off and check for leaks. If everything is good, start it and proceed to rev the motor for another 10mins from 2500-3000rpms. After a total of 25 mins, shut the car down. Change the oil and filter with whatever oil your going to use, no synthetics. Drive the car without boosting for 500 miles or more and thats it. Change the oil somewhere in the 500 miles if it makes you feel better. Thats the whole break in period. No beating the car, basically the rings are seated right away. This is how I was told to break in my motor by the people who built my motor, they told me to advise people to ask there machine shop how to break in there motor. It makes sense to me. I dont have compression numbers yet to back it up though.

Im done with the 25 mins of break in, but the rear main seal is leaking so I might be pulling the tranny to fix that. There is a bit more to the break in procedure they gave me, but thats the basics. If you want the whole thing, just PM me.
 
so another update: tested crank sensor and its fine, even tried a new one and still no fire. tried 2 diff computers both worked but still not fire. mechanic thinks maybe machine shop forgot to put some sending sensor back on the crankshaft before putting it back in?? im not real familiar with what they are talking about, but i wanted to gauge opinions on if any think this could be the problem. or if you had any other ideas on what it might be. i really need help guys, the car is completely done except for this POS problem.

thanks
 
It just popped into my head. Make sure they didn't put the coil plug into the trans and the VSS into the coil pack. Those are the only two sensors that could have been plug in wrong. I think bulletdsm said he had done it before... So, hurry up and have them check that and repost. Hope thats fixes it.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong guys but the ECU sends the signal to your crank sensor. If that is the case then I'd check the ECU. Or possbily the AF/X unit from Howell.
 
Nope. The ECU provides a nice clean voltage reference and ground for the sensor, but the sensor sends the actual signal to the ECU.
 
. mechanic thinks maybe machine shop forgot to put some sending sensor back on the crankshaft before putting it back in?? im not real familiar with what they are talking about, but i wanted to gauge opinions on if any think this could be the problem.

thanks
They would have to break the crank to take off the notches built into the crank for the crank sensor. It is part of the crank, so it is pretty unlikely. BUT, if they wanted to check this, they could drop the oil pan and look at the crank in that area to see if, by some weird circumstance, something happened to the notches.

As for the VSS and the coil connector. For the record, I have read about others doing it. I haven't done it...............yet :p

One more connector that sometimes gets missed is the connector below the intake from the main harness. Double check that one for complete connection? Also, since were kinda looking at "goofy" stuff. Check the wires from the crank connector. It is a bit difficult to get off and culd have gotten broken in the process?

MB
 
Looks really good except for 2 things.

1. What kind of clutch is DXD, just wondernig cause I haven't heard about them?

2. Reconisder going with the OBX helical LSD, If you search for it, you'll find a thread of a member of this website who tried it and had terrible fitment issues and it barely lasted a month before tearing his tranny apart. I think it was Baxsom.

If your dumping all this money, spring for the extra $700 to get the Quafie LSD, you could do this by sacraficing a couple of things on the list that are completely nesscesarry right away.

But if your are going to get an LSD, that OBX one, isn't worth it.


I live in Mishawaka, next to south bend.

If you havent put that clutch in yet DONT.

THEY ARE JUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I live in Mishawaka, next to south bend.

If you havent put that clutch in yet DONT.

THEY ARE JUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Since when? What examples lead you to think they are junk. I have one and haven't had any problems with mine. Many other 2gnts don't have any problems with them and love them.
 
I live in Mishawaka, next to south bend.

If you havent put that clutch in yet DONT.

THEY ARE JUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is certainly contrary to their reputation in the community. We're talking SBC clutch here guys. You're gonna have to back up that claim.

MB
 
well the shop checked the coil pack and VSS connectors, i assume by VSS you mean cam sensor connector? anyways the shop said they checked it out. they are going to drop the oil pan and check the sensor on the crank. pretty much i have no f'ing clue what any of this stuff is or how to check it, i dont even know whats going on any more to tell the truth. all i know is the car is done but it wont start...thanks for the advice guys ill let the shop know, and keep it coming if you guys come up with any other ideas
 
Just so you have an idea of what the pick ups on the crank look like, here is a pic of the crank. You will see those notches are built into the crank. They would have to be broken off somehow (or really screwed up) for a problem. They are not going to find any kind of sensor/pick up in there.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
ok thanks for the pic. would having the crank balanced cuase a problem for these notches
 
I have made the mistake that they are mentioning. I think the cam angle sensor, speed sensor and one other (coil maybe) are all the same connector. You have to trace the wire colors to find out which one goes where, as they will all snap on and fit.
 
ok thanks for the pic. would having the crank balanced cuase a problem for these notches

Nope, the balancing is done by removing/drilling material from this area, like so.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top