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Well i was looking for an alternative to get this build started, however all of you make a good point...obviously im not trying to half ass anything on this build, so looks like the build is gonna be delayed a little longer till i can get the money to get a Quiafe..SHIT!!!


btw: anyone know where i can buy one besides direct from the factory, i cant find them anywhere for the 420a
 
ok so update and few more questions. i decided to go with another brand LSD, not Quafe i coudlnt see putting down that much money, so i went with the one AMC (i think thats who it is) makes. now for the questions..

first, i read on here somewhere that a 3" exhaust for a GS-T works on the GS, is this true??

Secondly, the guy builidng my motor said his machine shop doesnt want to do the port and polish on my head bc its tricky and their afraid they might ruin it, how much of a difference will this make and what other options do i have for more flow??

lastly, for breaking in purposes what the best oil and transmission fluid to use?? this thing will be pushing alot more power then stock so i dont wanna use the wrong fluids and mess up all this work..

thanks in advance for the help guys
 
420a16g said:
ok so update and few more questions. i decided to go with another brand LSD, not Quafe i coudlnt see putting down that much money, so i went with the one AMC (i think thats who it is) makes. now for the questions..

first, i read on here somewhere that a 3" exhaust for a GS-T works on the GS, is this true??

Secondly, the guy builidng my motor said his machine shop doesnt want to do the port and polish on my head bc its tricky and their afraid they might ruin it, how much of a difference will this make and what other options do i have for more flow??

lastly, for breaking in purposes what the best oil and transmission fluid to use?? this thing will be pushing alot more power then stock so i dont wanna use the wrong fluids and mess up all this work..

thanks in advance for the help guys

2G GS-T exhausts are routed the same way as 2G GS/RS exhausts. Furthermore, the hangers are in the same positions too. If you find an aftermarket 3" GS-T exhaust, it should fit properly - keep in mind, though, that many of these exhaust become more narrow (to abour 2.25") near the catalytic converter to compensate for a stock sized downpipe.

Porting and polishing a head is something I would only trust a professional with a flow bench to do. If your machinist says he can't do it, ask him to refer you to someone who can.

During break in, use cheap AutoZone/Discount brand 10W-30 oil. Some people use 30W initially, then switch to 10W-30 or 5W-30; it's up to you. You'll be changing the oil so frequently, that it isn't worth it to spend the extra money on synthetic. Not to mention, you don't want to really introduce any additives to that new engine just yet.

The tranny fluid doesn't make as much of a difference. If you have an M/T, just stick some dealership fluid (I believe it's Mopar ATF-4 now; available from your Chrysler/Dodge dealer) in there. The fluid should last quite a while.
 
correct me if im wrong, but your suppose to break in the motor with mineral oil then switch to synthetic after 2k miles or so..is this right?
 
hey what kind of difference will it make if i just decide against the port and polish, assuming my car gets about 350hp or so....will it be noticable or not really?
 
At that point, I'd say focus your energies elsewhere. Major headwork (like porting) is something I would only consider past the 450hp mark or so.
 
ok, my other source said the same thing so i just wanted to get a second opinion. i guess if it doesnt help that much i wont really worry about it.
 
Paul, you hurt my feelings man... :cry:

The headwork isn't necessary, but it will help you none the less. You CAN port and polished our heads, mine was done by a local machine shop in less than 2 days. He used a flowbench though, so it may handicap a shop from doing your work per no equipment.

Hell, if you're going all out with the motor and turbo set-up, you might as well have the head done too. It will make that much more HP versus the stock spec 420a. If you don't do it now, you may want to in the future. This would require disassembly of ALOT for that extra work. It would be much easier to have it done while the head is out now also..

It's your motor so of course, your call. I am just sharing my opinion on it with you. Regardless, GOOD LUCK! You'll LOVE the boost...
 
unless you plan on port matching your upper/lower parts of the intake manifold with the head and a 60mm TB and port matching the exhaust manifold to the head then your really just waisting your money its one of those all or nothing mods. I recommend against porting just the head itself.
 
will a 60mm TB and a head with no work flow good or will it be one of those things where there is a ton of air coming in and no where for all of it to go?
 
Unless you at least port the intake manifold to match, a 60mm TB and ported head will be completely pointless.

Head work can get quite extensive and expensive. If you're one of those people who like to do everything at once (like me), then don't fret... the stock head will hold up fine to all kinds of abuse until you're ready to push the 450hp mark. If I were you, I'd rebuild the bottom end, and find a good spare head. From there, take your time acquiring parts and rebuilding the head. Swapping heads is nothing like swapping short blocks. You could probably do the whole swap in under a day.
 
well im rebuilding the whole motor, but i see what your saying. i can always pick up a spare head for pretty cheap so if i decide to that later then ill just have them use the spare head and then swap everything over. thanks for the help.
 
well the car finally got picked up the other day, the engine should be out by sometime next week and then its off to the machine shop. ill keep you guys posted and get some pics up soon
 
Awesome. I'm looking forward to the build. Usually I dread all the work that comes with it, but man, you must feel GREAT knowing it's not in your hands.(don't take that the wrong way, you know what I meen)

Doing a motor swap and turbo install IS NOT fun. The constant worrying, double checking, testing, etc. takes a large toll on you. But once it's done, feels great.

POST PICS ASAP! :thumb:
 
Just wanted to give you guys a quick update. I dropped my block off at my machine shop about 1.5 weeks ago. the bottom end is already done and they are almost done with the head....so far no problems (knock on wood). My oil pan should be here Wed and I have to go drop it off and have my intake mani bored out to 60mm to fit my TB. everything should be done by end of the week hopefully. Havent had a chance to get any pics yet (school, work, etc..) Ill try to get some as soon as i can.
 
Well it took a little longer then i thought but i finally have pics. So far just a few pics of the engine parts and the engine (almost complete), and really bad picture of the valve and port job. ill post some more as the build goes. as of right now im hoping the car will be back together in about 2 weeks (+/- 1 week). anyways, enjoy.

btw. valve cover is going to be powdercoated a satin red with polished letters.
 

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holy crap! where do you get the money to pay for all that. anyways looks great. Although the super16g has alot of potential with supporting mods, with your parts list and upgrades you probably should of opted for the 20g. either way keep us updated this is exciting.
 
well Iv never owned a turbo car before, and Iv only driven about 2 so I wanted to start off with a 16g and then work my way up.

Thanks for the comments. As for the $$ I work alot and my job pays me pretty good, but this also took me about 3 years too....so Iv been buying and saving for a while.
 
420a16g said:
Thanks for the comments. As for the $$ I work alot and my job pays me pretty good, but this also took me about 3 years too....so Iv been buying and saving for a while.

Yeah, I hear ya man. :thumb: 3 years ago, my goal was to do this, but I realistically accepted the fact that it may take up to 5-6 years. Determination will get you anything if you want it enough, eh?
I worked at a hot dog store for 2 years just to afford my engine. Then 1 year and a new job later, the turbo came...

You'll love boost. :D

Just remember, this is a long process though, so don't stomp away once you get the car. Make sure your motor is properly broken in and fliuds check out OK. I would say more for you to check, but if it's in the shops hand's then I'm sure they'll know what's going on. Remind them about the little o-ring gasket by the oil port/oil filter adapter, if this leaks, you'll have to pull the WHOLE motor again. All due to a gasket the size of a penny and worth MAYBE $1. Also, if you got adjustable cam gears, make sure you let them idle for 30 minutes before ANY driving.. Other then that, you look good to go.

Keep us updated man!
 
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