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Blitzeclips said:
Just remember, this is a long process though, so don't stomp away once you get the car. Make sure your motor is properly broken in and fliuds check out OK. I would say more for you to check, but if it's in the shops hand's then I'm sure they'll know what's going on. Remind them about the little o-ring gasket by the oil port/oil filter adapter, if this leaks, you'll have to pull the WHOLE motor again. All due to a gasket the size of a penny and worth MAYBE $1. Also, if you got adjustable cam gears, make sure you let them idle for 30 minutes before ANY driving.. Other then that, you look good to go.
!


well i got all new gaskets with my Fel-Pro kit so hopefully that gasket was in there. as for the cams, do you mean when you first start the motor or do you mean every time you start it up??
 
Oh, I;m sorry for the confusion, I meant the VERY FIRST time you get the motor kicked over. Not everytime, because that surely would suck to wait 30 minutes before driving.

The gasket kit probably included the O-Ring, but it's such a small necessity that you *can* miss it. I did. I leak a teaspoon of oil per every day or two. But hey, I can honestly say my car changes oil by itself. I just need to add it here and there. ROFL


It's by the bedplate, and you can't drop the bedplate to get to it, you need it in there before the motor is dropped in the bay... :thumb:

P.S- Run it by your mechanic when you can, because it can be missed quite easily. I'm sure he'll know what you are refferring to though.
 
Hey guys, havent been on in a while just wanted to drop by and update everyone on the build. First off, its taken much longer then i had anticipated. The engine went together smoothly for the most part, adding some of the new stuff on was a pain in the @ss. The tranny went together nicely as well, now with a DXD clutch and AMC LSD. As of this writing the motor and tranny are in, FMIC installed, piping is being ran, gauges are being installed, i had 2 that i coudlnt use to beat it all. Suspension in done, exhaust work is almost done, and interior is about half stripped. hopefully should be running by next week, after the exhaust shop finishes the exhaust work its on the street tuning and then the long journey to breaking this thing in.

For anyone who is thinking about building a 420a eclipse i have some words of advise for you. First off, be prepared to spend ALOT of time searching the internet for the right parts, combinations, advise, FAQs, etc... Secondly, you better be patient. I thought this would take a couple of months at the most, not the case atleast not with my build yours may be different. Lastly, be prepared to spend the money on the right parts. Iv spent close to 8k just on parts for this build but i also have extra parts at the house that i didnt use or cant use now, lack of research on my part, its not a cheap car to build.

otherwise i attached some pictures, comments and questions welcome.
 

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Looks good, I can't wait for numbers, seeing all that you dropped into it. I am new but to edit his advise, I have previous car experience but from research to road it took me 3 months total, I did all the work myself and my sponsor was my girlfriend, when the engine is next to the car she is the only ride to the parts store. Looks great keep us posted.

-Alex
 
Thanks for the comments guys. Like i said, hopefully everything goes right and we get it started up next week. It will probably be a while before i can get you guys some good numbers since ill have to break the motor in first then take it to NC to have it dyno tuned. but i will def keep you guys posted and should have some new pics next week.
 
How bout some prices or what not...unless you wasted a lot of money here and there, seems a bit extreme to me :confused:
 
X- Stop being a pessimist. You're turning into a forum troll.

Looks good, man. Must be nice to have it in someone else's hands while you're just waiting to get er' back! :thumb: Lucky!
 
How bout some prices or what not...unless you wasted a lot of money here and there, seems a bit extreme to me :confused:

if you check the first post youll find a list of parts i used for this car, then just go online and look on the various sites. i mostly used modern performance, howell, ebay, and few a others that i cant remember.

keep in mind iv been buying sh!t for this car for 3 years, so alot of the prices have dropped since i last bought the goods. trust me though it came out of my bank account i know how much i spent.
 
build delayed another week or so, apparently i didnt have any of my fuel return parts....i guess with buying all the other stuff i just forgot this. oh well.
 
just a quick update:

so i bought the fuel return kit from Hahn everything ran right around $300. already installed and gauges should be done by next week. IC piping should be ran and finished by next week as well. the guys building it are telling me shouldnt be more then a couple of weeks and it will be done...Finally. anyways ill get some more pics and stuff next time im down there.
 
Man, when you get that back please do some kind of thread on how the AMC LSD is working out?

will do, it will be the only LSD that iv ever driven with so i wouldnt notice a huge difference between it and a Quaif but ill be sure to do a write up, as well a write up on the whole install becuase there were alot more complications then i ever remember reading about.

also can someone provide with the best way to break this motor in. Iv heard of doing it alot of different ways and i just wanted to know what the best way would be.

thanks guys
 
The "best way"...

Hmm... you've head a lot of different methods because none of them are quite the "best way." I don't think there will ever be any definitive proof as to which is the "best." All anyone can ever do is tell you what they've done.

Here's how I broke my engine in:

1. Started it up, let it idle for 15-20 min. -- change oil/filter
2. Drive for 20 miles, lots of compression (engine) braking, but stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost! -- change oil/filter
3. Drive for 220 total miles, stay off highway, engine brake when possible, stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter
5. Drive for 620 total miles, stay off highway, engine brake when possible, stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter
6. Drive for 1,020 total miles, do a little highway cruising, stay below 4,000 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter, change plugs
7. Drive for 1,520 total miles, do more highway cruising, stay below 4,500 RPMs, up to 3-4psi of boost -- change oil/filter (use better oil this time).

You should be all set at this point, but I still took it easy until 2,500 miles or so... Now I'm at 3,500 total miles, revving high, boosting to 8psi, and everything is in good shape.
 
VelocitàPaola;151217693 said:
The "best way"...

Hmm... you've head a lot of different methods because none of them are quite the "best way." I don't think there will ever be any definitive proof as to which is the "best." All anyone can ever do is tell you what they've done.

Here's how I broke my engine in:

1. Started it up, let it idle for 15-20 min. -- change oil/filter
2. Drive for 20 miles, lots of compression (engine) braking, but stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost! -- change oil/filter
3. Drive for 220 total miles, stay off highway, engine brake when possible, stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter
5. Drive for 620 total miles, stay off highway, engine brake when possible, stay below 3,500 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter
6. Drive for 1,020 total miles, do a little highway cruising, stay below 4,000 RPMs, no boost -- change oil/filter, change plugs
7. Drive for 1,520 total miles, do more highway cruising, stay below 4,500 RPMs, up to 3-4psi of boost -- change oil/filter (use better oil this time).

You should be all set at this point, but I still took it easy until 2,500 miles or so... Now I'm at 3,500 total miles, revving high, boosting to 8psi, and everything is in good shape.


so by engine braking you mean downshifting right? letting the rpms drop and then dropping to the next lowest gear until the rpms drop again and so on?
 
Uh... not quite. Say you're cruising along in 5th gear at 45MPH at 2,000RPM. Downshift to 4th to bring the RPMs up a little to 3,500RPM or so, then let out the clutch. It kind of goes against what you were first taught about driving a manual, but the car won't stall, and it'll begin slowing down quickly. Downshift again once the RPMs get below 2,000RPMs or so. You'll get a feel for it...

Engine braking pulls a lot of vacuum (>20inHg), which helps set the rings and break everything in properly.
 
VelocitàPaola;151217705 said:
Uh... not quite. Say you're cruising along in 5th gear at 45MPH at 2,000RPM. Downshift to 4th to bring the RPMs up a little to 3,500RPM or so, then let out the clutch. It kind of goes against what you were first taught about driving a manual, but the car won't stall, and it'll begin slowing down quickly. Downshift again once the RPMs get below 2,000RPMs or so. You'll get a feel for it...

Engine braking pulls a lot of vacuum (>20inHg), which helps set the rings and break everything in properly.

ok i got ya, hey off topic real quick does anyone know where i can get a OEM style leather shift knob, the ones that have the stitching on them?
 
ok i got ya, hey off topic real quick does anyone know where i can get a OEM style leather shift knob, the ones that have the stitching on them?

MachV is where I got mine. Around 25-30 I think it was.

Can't wait to see some pics.
 
MachV is where I got mine. Around 25-30 I think it was.

Can't wait to see some pics.

Not trying to change the coarse of the thread, but I ask: Is that knob real leather? (My factory knob's outer skin has worn through, and appears to be pleather)

And I also await more pics of the build.
 
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