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Sweet.

Ohh, and Paul's method of breaking in a motor seems to be a fair balance of MotoMan theory, and conventional theory. I have done my last few break-ins rather aggressively, (no problems, BTW) but Paul's method seems appealing.

edit: On your first start-up, immediately bring the engine up to ~2-2.5k for a short bit, to get the packing blown out of the pump and real oil flowing.
 
Went by the shop today to drop off some more things, and took some updated pics. just thought i would share with you guys.

firewall was being drilled as i was leaving and wires are being run through it for the gauges. not much longer left!!

look past the rats nest of wires, those will be hidden soon.
 

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BigRand said:
Is the battery relocated, or is it just out and the msd box just sitting there for now?
Click to expand...

yea the battery is in the trunk now. optima yellow top. also in the process i lost my AC and Cruise...kinda sucks about the cruise, i never used the AC as it was.
 
VelocitàPaola;151222307 said:
I got a blue set off eBay for about $40. It's the exact same hose, just a different color.
Click to expand...

I would actually look for the insulation hoses. Not for the color, but for the function. That area can gets pretty hot from the turbo/downpipe location. You want to keep that coolant as cool as possible. Maybe they sell insulation AND colored hose? I'm sure someone does somewhere. Hahn's RS had an orange one. I used to buy them from a certain vendor for the bikes, so maybe I'll check in with them for a larger diameter hose.
 
It's silicone hose, which is pretty heat resistant -- more so than the stock rubber hose.

Hahn doesn't supply the hose itself, just a "fire sleeve" or insulated sleeve. DEI makes insulated sleeves too.
 
BigRand said:
Hey and did you get that hose kit off ebay (the red radiator hose set)?If not, where and how much?
Click to expand...

Yea i got the hoses off Ebay but they are OBX hoses. Like Paul said they are silicon so they are heat resistant, I bought some heat wrap and silicon spray to cover some of the turbo parts for added protection.

Focker420 said:
whats that red box by your IM mounted to the fire wall? somthing for the MSD im thinking.
Click to expand...

The red box on the firewall is the MSD tach adapter box for the ignition. They had to start mounting stuff on the firewall cause they are running out of room to put things, hence why i lost my cruise control and why the battery is in the trunk now.
 
update for everyone:

went to the shop today and paid some on my labor bill, not as bad as i was expeciting (less then 1k). The shop owner set a deadline of August 3rd. He wants it out of his shop and i want it back in my garage... so hopefully everything should be done in 2 weeks or so. im pretty excited.

p.s. was looking on importtuner.com the other day and saw an article that went in depth on how to do a engine wire tuck, just wondering if anyone has done a write up on doing a tuck specific to our cars??
 
anyone know where i get a heat shield of some sort to fit the Hahn super 16g. Im afraid the heat my start to melt my fans since it sits so close.
 
LOL!! Thats pretty damn funny and a good idea. thanks for the help
 
Update: So they car was suppose to be done by this week, but didnt happen. Now i have a leak on the portfueler where the secondary injectors and fuel rail meet and i we cant figure out why. Has anyone ever heard of this problem or know of any suggestions to fix it? Also there is a small leak on my oil temp bung, but that should be simple to fix once everything else is done. This car is really starting to piss me off
 
Hang in there man. It takes patience sometimes because everything doesn't always run so smooth. They sound like minor issues, nothing to worry too much about. Did you use teflon paste/tape on the rail and threads?
 
are you using the right sized injectors interms of actual physical size? Since you've been assembling parts for a while, have there been any tears in any of the o rings?

And last but not least, check your fuel pressure, and make sure its set right, and check the vac source line for the secondary injectors as well.
 
420a16g said:
Update: So they car was suppose to be done by this week, but didnt happen. Now i have a leak on the portfueler where the secondary injectors and fuel rail meet and i we cant figure out why. Has anyone ever heard of this problem or know of any suggestions to fix it? Also there is a small leak on my oil temp bung, but that should be simple to fix once everything else is done. This car is really starting to piss me off
Click to expand...

Make sure the injectors/fuel rail is not making contact with valvecover or the head. Hahn claims thier is no need to shave a little off the valve cover or anything to make it fit, but me and many other people have proof thats not the case. So go Make sure the mounting plate is completely flush against the head and that the fuel rail is not coming in contact with the valve cover. good luck
 
thanks for the advice guys, ill let my shop know so they can check some of this stuff.
 
4UH8ERS said:
Make sure the injectors/fuel rail is not making contact with valvecover or the head. Hahn claims thier is no need to shave a little off the valve cover or anything to make it fit, but me and many other people have proof thats not the case. So go Make sure the mounting plate is completely flush against the head and that the fuel rail is not coming in contact with the valve cover. good luck
Click to expand...

My instructions say that I do have to shave a little of the VC for the fuel rail and also from the IM for the injectors.
 
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