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Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

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That part is correct. Vette, you remember that did your install the hard way and opposite from every else 2g because you like to have the caliper clocked upward. btw do you have the pic of your brembo in that position, just wanted to see if looks any better?
 
That part is correct. Vette, you remember that did your install the hard way and opposite from every else 2g because you like to have the caliper clocked upward. btw do you have the pic of your brembo in that position, just wanted to see if looks any better?

Dude. I totally forgot about pics. Ill get some. ITS BADASS to say the least. So much better imho.
 
heres some better pics as you can see i did use the spacers between the bracket and the caliper and the pic shows the rubbing area in the rotor
 

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Did you prep the knuckles like this?

You have to grind (or file, yuck) the casting flash from the back side of the caliper support ears on the front spindle. Just remove the casting ring and nothing more.

Before grinding.
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After Grinding.
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Once you have a good flat surface with nothing that interferes with the bracket sitting flush, install the bracket with the hardware.
109999d1274756413-2g-evo-x-9-8-brembo-without-jdm-knuckles-photo-007.jpg
 

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Yes I grind off the excess casting off the ears so the bracket can sit flush with the knuckle ears.
But if that wasn't the case the bracket would be push in and so the caliper and I'll be rubbing the oustide off the caliper.Me proble is the opposite the caliper it's push like 1mm (I think) out so that's why it's rubbing the inside off the rotor

I'm leaning maybe I need to grind a litlle more the caliper since nobody had this problem before
 
Check to see that you grind enough off the calipers to clear the ear.
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If that doesn't help then I guess you have a one of a kind suspension geometry. Over 60 people did this swap with the same amount of spacing and did not have this alignment problem.

So you want to move the calipers inward (toward the control arm) to center your calipers right?
You can customize those spacers I gave you by machining them to your needs. The easiest way to fix your problem right now is put shims between the ears and bracket so you could move the calipers inward.

btw did you install this yourself or some one did it for you because its odd that you put the caliper on with out even checking to see if its correctly align? Correct me if i'm wrong then you drive around and found out that's its rubbing.
 

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Yes i wasnt to push the caliper inwards. A friend let me use his litlle shop and he help me do the swap( was he's first time doing something like that) we check the brakes on the lift. I think my friend mistake when he was checking the clearance he didn't tight the rotor with a lugnut so when I was braking the pads were aligning the rotor(no rubbing)cause I was loose but as soon we put the wheel the rubbing started so after that I drove home, I live 5 blocks for him
 
well i fix the problem, i need to grind a little more on both calipers but the rotors weren't perfectly centered so i put a washer in each lug nut to bring the rotor a little bit out and now its perfect thank you guys for the help.
 

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Thats not from the rotor, thats from the caliper not being straight. If that was the case, your hub would be off center.
 
## right but when I said the rotors weren't in the center was because off the caliper and the easiest way I found to do that with out grinding more material off the caliper was to put a washer in each lug nut.
 
## right but when I said the rotors weren't in the center was because off the caliper and the easiest way I found to do that with out grinding more material off the caliper was to put a washer in each lug nut.

Do you mean you put a washer behind the rotor on each wheel stud? A washer behind each lugnut would not accomplish anything, except create potential problems with your lug nut to wheel contact.
 
You're gonna have problems because our wheels are hub centric. And by puttingwashers in, you're pulling the wheel away from the rotor, and putting the stress solely on the lugs and not the hubs like it is designed.
 
I see what ## saying but I'm no pullin away the wheel to the rotor.I'm pulling away the rotor to the hub like 1mm I don't think it will give to much weaknees to the lugnuts but if we were talking 5 mm or 10 mm that's another story
 
Either way, I wouldn't do it. I'd keep filing away at the calipers myself.

The other thing is, are the lug nuts long enough to let you do it? every thread out you push the wheel outward, it puts more stress on the remaining threads. How many threads can you go before the lug nut can't take the forces?

BTW, if you don't understand what I'm meaning, Think of the thread as a ledge you're hanging weight off. The more you spread the force out, the better the ledge can take the load.

:)
 
Ha yea right buddy. Spin again vanna. Those hubs are expensive as ####. Thats why the bracket is a more affordable do it your self option.
 
1 if you have the machine shop machine\mill the calipers for you. Once the calipers are modded there basically a bolt on. The work install them is kinda like doing a brake job.

If you cut\grind the calipers yourself then thats depends on your skills and tools.

Here I had the machine shop did my evo X calipers, takes no skills but $$ instead. If your a good customer with a shop they'll charge you about $20-30.
107654d1269042767-evo-8-10-brembo-calipers-dsm-conversion-1g-too-dsc00211.jpg
 
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