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Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

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New dust shields aren't mandatory either. I used the RTM kit up front with 3kGT 4-pot calipers and cobra rotors and Evo Rears. On my 2g AWD the front shields were simply pushed back a little so they wouldn't rub the new rotors. As for the rear, they didn't want to bend much out of the way so the 90 degree lip was cut off/smoothed and painted. I attempted driving the car with only the RTM front kit/stock rears/stock booster and master cylinder. The pedal seemed to have a super long travel and felt like the hydraulics had air in them, very scary. Over the last week I installed the EVO rear setup and 3g booster/3g master. Will have the car up and running again tonight!!!

Thanks for the write up Gofer : )
 
Your welcome. Just be sure to get all the air out of there, the Evo Brembos use a 11mm bleed screw on the caliper. Hopefully you bled the BMC before you installed it, what a PITA if you didn't since it takes 5x as long to bleed the system.

:dsm:
 
I purchased a hand vacuum pump and ran about 2 large bottle's of fluid through the system. I pray to god all the air is out as I worked on it for hours on end today. The new brake master really cleans up the bay to : ) Didn't get any test drives tonight, hopefully soon though.. In the process of maintenance and upgrades
 
Test drive complete, the new 3g booster/ 3g master completely fixed my spongey brake pedal. Pedal feels excellent!!! Anyone upgrading to EVO style brakes should upgrade these parts it should be manditory!
 
I've read this thread like 3 times LOL. And I've got My calipers rotors and pads just waiting for the brackets so I can bolt em up. Then when I swap my motor I'll be doing the 3G upgrade as well. But I'm having a hard time getting ahold of kmv for the brackets. Any one here know how to get ahold of him other than email or pm's?
 
i just pm'd him here, it took a couple days but then he got back and we went on from there, brackets looks great too
 
I had mine thrown on my Talon finally, they were a little bit of a pain to get on just right, but overall it made sense and they are working well, although the brake pedal feel is pretty loose. Regarding the pedal feel, I'd say if you're using the car only as a weekend/track car and you can deal with the pedal feel, you don't need to do it immediately, unless you already have your intake manifold/engine bay pretty cleared out. It's definitely livable for the most part.

Reminder that the rear brakes will need to use coarse thread bolts, not the standard 2G brake caliper mounting bolts. Also standard braided 2G lines in the rear will also not work as the rear Brembos use a Banjo fitting vs. standard issue stuff.

All in all, I'm glad I did it even though I ended up having a shop do it due to the fact I don't have a machine shop on hand to do the front calipers.

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Front

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Rear

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Both together.
 

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Did this swap about 2 months ago and have been globe trotting and working since so there I will get around to adding pics to my build diary and throw a couple up here.

All I can say is that this swap is RIDIULOUS....the stopping power in my brembos was INCREDIBLE after the3G MBC/BB upgrade. I did buy the SS line and AN crap, but found that you can just bend the old brake line by hand. I had issues clearing my clutch hardline and had to bend the piss out of it to get it past the huge asss BB, but past that it was smooth as butter.

Pedal movement is so small is redonculous....like I can press on that mofo as hard as I possible can and it still doesn't bottom out. Like seriously I heaved on that fcuker until my quad started getting tired and I still can't touch the bottom. Thought that might be an issue when cruising around since it may have been a bit twitchy on gentle stops but it was even easier and smoother than before.

Actual stopping power/distance is CRAZY!!! I pounded on the brakes @100+MPH and the ass end of my car just about lifted off the ground....went from 100-0 in about 2.5 seconds....did about 3 of these and the brakes were smoking quite a bit with no fade to be felt either in the pedal nor in the stopping power.

This is by far my favorite upgrade....###### till the holset goes in....maybe....I do love the shiit outta braking tho. So fun and the looks at my car have changed from the "punk kid rice rocket" look to the "holy shiit that thing means business...lets race em" look. Just about everyone I pull upto at a light now wants to race, which is irratating since I am NOT down with that crap on the streets.

HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended upgarde.

:)
 
You can put on 3000gt trailing arms and it will work. They widen the track by an inch or so, though.
 
The 1g trailing arm doesn't have provisions for an e-brake that uses the inside of the rotor as a drum. The EVO calipers, 2g calipers, and the 3000gt calipers all do not have an e-brake mechanism built into them. The 3000gt trailing arms will fit right onto a DSM, but because the drum setup takes up more room, it widens the track a little bit. I believe the EVO calipers, front and rear, use the same mounting points as the 3000gt. The only solution for the fronts fitting onto a 1g is still brackets, which IMO is hack. For the 2g fronts, there are some JDM knuckles that work.
 
Did this swap about 2 months ago and have been globe trotting and working since so there I will get around to adding pics to my build diary and throw a couple up here.

All I can say is that this swap is RIDIULOUS....the stopping power in my brembos was INCREDIBLE after the3G MBC/BB upgrade. I did buy the SS line and AN crap, but found that you can just bend the old brake line by hand. I had issues clearing my clutch hardline and had to bend the piss out of it to get it past the huge asss BB, but past that it was smooth as butter.

Pedal movement is so small is redonculous....like I can press on that mofo as hard as I possible can and it still doesn't bottom out. Like seriously I heaved on that fcuker until my quad started getting tired and I still can't touch the bottom. Thought that might be an issue when cruising around since it may have been a bit twitchy on gentle stops but it was even easier and smoother than before.

Actual stopping power/distance is CRAZY!!! I pounded on the brakes @100+MPH and the ass end of my car just about lifted off the ground....went from 100-0 in about 2.5 seconds....did about 3 of these and the brakes were smoking quite a bit with no fade to be felt either in the pedal nor in the stopping power.

This is by far my favorite upgrade....###### till the holset goes in....maybe....I do love the shiit outta braking tho. So fun and the looks at my car have changed from the "punk kid rice rocket" look to the "holy shiit that thing means business...lets race em" look. Just about everyone I pull upto at a light now wants to race, which is irratating since I am NOT down with that crap on the streets.

HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended upgarde.

:)

Most of what you're describing could've been done by refreshing the stock system, some dot 5 fluid, some more aggressive pads, and stainless lines on the stock braking system.

I'm not so sure how you seem to decry street racing but are so concerned about the image of them and "do multiple stops from 100-0" (Really?)
 
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those rotors look terrible, pitted and glazed. They look like they could use a change, plus pads.

Uhhh, they were just machined. Pads are old but they're fine.

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(other side)
 

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pads and rotors should be changed at the same time due to wear characteristic of the previous rotor and pad mating.

Pads can also glaze from over heating or improper break-in procedure.

Rule of thumb is the change both at the same time. I mean, to each their own in the end.
 
I'm pretty sure they'll be fine. I haven't even bedded them yet.
 
pads and rotors should be changed at the same time due to wear characteristic of the previous rotor and pad mating.

Pads can also glaze from over heating or improper break-in procedure.

Rule of thumb is the change both at the same time. I mean, to each their own in the end.

Shut up, you don't have to replace rotors every time you replace pads. Resurfacing rotors when you do a pad change is generally a good idea though.
 
Shut up, you don't have to replace rotors every time you replace pads. Resurfacing rotors when you do a pad change is generally a good idea though.

Thanks for you constructive input.

If you read carefully you would see that he did not change his pads and only resurfaced the rotors, the next statement is how he should have "changed" both his pads and rotors are the same time (so they are two new friction surfaces that are mating).

Having the rotors resurfaced provides a new "surface" for the pads to mate to. It is essentially the same as having or replacing your rotors with new ones. I guess I should have been more specific with what "changed" means in my previous post, I never used the word "replace".

Change - transform or covert (resurface rotor)
Replace - to provide a substitute (to buy new rotors and put them on)

Rotors are so cheap now that replacing them with new ones might even be cheaper than having them cut in some cases.:thumb:
 
If I stuck my nose in here and suggested that people calm down and be nice, you all would just laugh at my hypocrisy, right?

OK, then I won't.
 
i'm hoping to do the mbc and/or the bb upgrade for both of my dsm's.
but,... i still want to run my 2g big brakes. i have no abs and i have SS lines.

what would this upgrade do to the stockish system?
i have a friend with a 01 bmw M3 and the brakes are unreal. you barely touch them and you stop.
i have been trying to achieve that feeling on my cars and i think this mod will make it so.

any warnings or advice? i have a 1g talon and a 91 galant. both stock mbc & bb.
 
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