Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

[miguelmcv]

Nice to hear that, any pics of the mbc and boster.
I would ike to see the finish look.

 

[gofer]

Nice to hear that, any pics of the mbc and boster.
I would ike to see the finish look.

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[miguelmcv]

I got the car off the jackstands today, it starts, idles, and it stops like an Evo now.

To anyone that has done the Evo brake conversion, or any brake upgrade for that matter, I HIGHLY recommend installing a 3g 9.75" brake booster and 17/16" brake master cylinder on your 2g, you won't regret it.

Now I'll be able to beat an Evo to the finish line and stop faster, too!

I know the 2g has two different size mbc and bb, But, Do all 3g has the same mbc and bb?.
Can I get any 3g mbc, bb?.

I have seen some 3gs at a junk yard and would like to know if I have to look for a specific one.

 

[gofer]

From the 3g FSM.

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[miguelmcv]

Nice, so it means they all came with the same mbc/bb which thy all came with 2.4/3.0 engines.
Thanks gofer for the inf, I will hunt that mbc/bb to throw it in and throw my calipers as well.
Props to you bro.

 

[gofer]

As requested through a PM, below is a "shopping list" of parts/tools you'll need to do the Evo VIII/IX Brembo brake swap along with upgrading the hydraulics; keep in mind this is using the kmv bracket to adapt the front calipers to fit the 2g knuckle.

[B][U]Parts[/U][/B]

___ Wheels that will clear these brakes, use EvoM and research fitment if you aren't sure
___ Evo VIII/IX Brembo calipers and assoc. hardware (front & rear)
[B][COLOR="red"]***If, for whatever reason, the calipers you bought didn't have the pins and anti-squeal
springs you'll also need to purchase these.***[/COLOR][/B]
      ___ [COLOR="red"]Pins and anti-squeal springs (front) [B]MR475935[/B][/COLOR] 
      ___ [COLOR="Red"]Pins and anti-squeal springs (rear) [B]MR475936[/B][/COLOR]
___ Evo VIII/IX rotors (front & rear)
___ Evo VIII/IX brake pads (front & rear)
___ kmv caliper brackets and assoc. hardware
___ SS brake lines, stock DSM or Evo since both will work
___ 3g 8+9 (9.75") brake booster, any model
___ 3g 17/16" (1.06") brake master cylinder, any model
___ -3AN SS line, need approx. 32" to 34" 
___ -3AN to M10 x 1.0 adapter fittings, you'll need two
___ M10 x 1.5 (25mm long) bolts, you'll need four
___ M10 flat washer and lock washer, you'll need four of each


[U]Special Tools[/U]
___ Air compressor
___ Die grinder
___ Egg shape double carbide bit
___ M14 x 1.5 tap

 

[tonyseagle]

Not sure if this is a strictly "KMV" bracket brembo conversion, but I got mine done while my car was down. I used JDM Galant knuckles and I repainted them.

Pics:

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Now to figure out how to get rid of that annoying "slow brake squeal."

 

[1990AWD]

From the 3g FSM.

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quick unrelated question, how do you take pictures of specific stuff in the FSM like that? I've tried and failed a few times already.

 

[ViciousLord]

Not sure if this is a strictly "KMV" bracket brembo conversion, but I got mine done while my car was down. I used JDM Galant knuckles and I repainted them.

Pics:

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Now to figure out how to get rid of that annoying "slow brake squeal."

You need proper lug nuts. From the looks of it, you have aftermarket "tuner" lug nuts, when you should be using an OEM style lug nut.

As for the noise... Are you using the factory brembo brake pad shims?

 

[tonyseagle]

You need proper lug nuts. From the looks of it, you have aftermarket "tuner" lug nuts, when you should be using an OEM style lug nut.

As for the noise... Are you using the factory brembo brake pad shims?

Yea I'm going to buy new lugs here soon...they don't quite seat correctly.

Not 100% sure on the shims.

I have researched the brake noise issue. Is it not a common problem among Evo drivers? I have read numerous threads...none with a 100% cure all...seems to be case by case.

 

[jmelocik]

You need to bed the brakes in to help eliminate the low speed brake squeal. When I first installed Hawk HPS pads on my Evo I had this issue. I re-read the bedding in instructions on the side of the Hawk pads box and performed as instructed and haven't had a problem since. This only works if all the hardware was installed correctly.

Josh

 

[ViciousLord]

Yea I'm going to buy new lugs here soon...they don't quite seat correctly.

Not 100% sure on the shims.

I have researched the brake noise issue. Is it not a common problem among Evo drivers? I have read numerous threads...none with a 100% cure all...seems to be case by case.

These are the factory Brembo brake shims.

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Majority of Evo owners over look the importance of these shims. In my experience, any time I didn't use these shims I had noise issues. When you install pads without these shims, they vibrate (when applying brakes) against the pistons in the calipers. The shims also act as a heat barrier for the piston dust boots.

A lot of aftermarket pads have a shim attached to the back. I tried out many different pads, looking for the perfect pads for my application. Once I did find my ideal pad (Feredos 2500) I noticed they didn't have a shim already attached to the back of the pad. After shim install and proper bedding of the pad, noise was nonexistence.

Also take into consideration that every pad is made up of different compounds. Different pads have different priorities.

You need to bed the brakes in to help eliminate the low speed brake squeal. When I first installed Hawk HPS pads on my Evo I had this issue. I re-read the bedding in instructions on the side of the Hawk pads box and performed as instructed and haven't had a problem since. This only works if all the hardware was installed correctly.

Josh

^ listen to this guy. Bedding is key.

 

[tonyseagle]

These are the factory Brembo brake shims.

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Majority of Evo owners over look the importance of these shims. In my experience, any time I didn't use these shims I had noise issues. When you install pads without these shims, they vibrate (when applying brakes) against the pistons in the calipers. The shims also act as a heat barrier for the piston dust boots.

A lot of aftermarket pads have a shim attached to the back. I tried out many different pads, looking for the perfect pads for my application. Once I did find my ideal pad (Feredos 2500) I noticed they didn't have a shim already attached to the back of the pad. After shim install and proper bedding of the pad, noise was nonexistence.

Also take into consideration that every pad is made up of different compounds. Different pads have different priorities.



^ listen to this guy. Bedding is key.

Awesome! I'll definitely look into those. Thanks!

 

[MikeyTsi]

As requested through a PM, below is a "shopping list" of parts/tools you'll need to do the Evo VIII/IX Brembo brake swap along with upgrading the hydraulics; keep in mind this is using the kmv bracket to adapt the front calipers to fit the 2g knuckle.

[B][U]Parts[/U][/B]

___ Wheels that will clear these brakes, use EvoM and research fitment if you aren't sure
___ Evo VIII/IX Brembo calipers and assoc. hardware (front & rear)
[B][COLOR="red"]***If, for whatever reason, the calipers you bought didn't have the pins and anti-squeal
springs you'll also need to purchase these.***[/COLOR][/B]
      ___ [COLOR="red"]Pins and anti-squeal springs (front) [B]MR475935[/B][/COLOR] 
      ___ [COLOR="Red"]Pins and anti-squeal springs (rear) [B]MR475936[/B][/COLOR]
___ Evo VIII/IX rotors (front & rear)
___ Evo VIII/IX brake pads (front & rear)
___ kmv caliper brackets and assoc. hardware
___ SS brake lines, stock DSM or Evo since both will work
___ 3g 8+9 (9.75") brake booster, any model
___ 3g 17/16" (1.06") brake master cylinder, any model
___ -3AN SS line, need approx. 32" to 34" 
___ -3AN to M10 x 1.0 adapter fittings, you'll need two
___ M10 x 1.5 (25mm long) bolts, you'll need four
___ M10 flat washer and lock washer, you'll need four of each


[U]Special Tools[/U]
___ Air compressor
___ Die grinder
___ Egg shape double carbide bit
___ M14 x 1.5 tap

Shouldn't dust shields be a part of this list?

 

[gofer]

Shouldn't dust shields be a part of this list?

Everything in the list is what's necessary to do the swap, installing dust shields isn't required.

 

[tonyseagle]

Got some Drilled and Slotted Rotor Pro rotors for the Evo Brake set up. Thanks to gofer, Maperformace, and the folks at RotorPro for leading me to this purchase!

Oh I also took your advice ViciousLord and ordered/installed the OEM lug nuts.

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[ViciousLord]

very nice!

 

[rkcstr]

Just did the 3G BB and MBC ($60 shipped on Ebay) with VR4 front (RTM bracket with 13" Cobra rotors) and Evo rear calipers. Noticeably shorter pedal travel and it also feels like I have more stopping power, though its tough to tell without better tires. Initially when I changed from the 2/1 pot AWD setup to the high perf 4/2 pot with bigger rotors, I didn't notice much difference in performance, possibly improved stopping power, though it did have much better appearance! Now, though, it seems I have the bite and intensity I was expecting with the upgraded brakes, which is satisfying.

Some suggestions I have for install:
1. If you can do it without the intake manifold or engine in the car, that would be that would make it way easier to get the BB in and to loosen/tighten brake lines.

2. The stock BB is a bi*** to get in/out, let alone one with a larger diameter like the one you're about to install. I had to loosen and turn the 90 elbow on my fuel rail (to my aftermarket FPR) up and out of the way, had to unbolt the bracket from the strut tower and push my AC line over to the side and disconnect the PS line that has a nut fitting so I could move it out of the way. Also, I had to remove the forked brake pedal connecting end off the BB. Then, it was just a matter of maneuvering it in there, but was able to do it (which I was surprised, actually)

3. The brake line closest to the firewall has to be reformed or replaced. I bought a 90 degree bender and a hand bender from Harbor Freight Tool, about $20 total. Had to unbend the 180 degree turn, bend it 90 degrees under the MBC, then 180 degrees in the opposite direction to meet the side port. If you do this, it is possible to avoid forming a new hard line or buying a SS line and adapters.

4. The stock low fluid level connector fits the 3G reservoir, however is about 2" short of reaching it once its mounted. Some may be able to manipulate the harness for the extra length, but I didn't feel like trying to pull on it or take the harness apart. I actually plan to add extension to the wire, which would be a simple cut and solder.

 

[shockey1013]

Why does one of the ears need to be tapped? I have all the parts needed and I'm not seeing the need to tap it.

 

[gofer]

Because the bolt that threads into the KMV bracket also needs threaded into the knuckle.

 

[shockey1013]

Because the bolt that threads into the KMV bracket also needs threaded into the knuckle.

That's what I'm confused about because the bolt goes fine through the KMV bracket without being tapped.

 

[bradikus7]

That's what I'm confused about because the bolt goes fine through the KMV bracket without being tapped.

Because the stubby bolt needs threaded through the KMV bracket and then into one of the ears on the factory knuckle so that the caliper is secured. You want both threaded so there is no chance of it coming loose enough to wiggle around and cause destruction.

Here is the best picture I have for you of mine. You can see where the one bolt goes through the back of the bracket and then through the top knuckle ear (depending on how you're doing yours, you may have to tap the bottom ear instead).

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[shockey1013]

Ohhhhh I see now. I thought it was the KMV bracket that needed to be tapped. I went down and looked at my car and your picture and now I'm seeing it. Thanks!!

And then after I went and tried to install them, I found out my wheels don't have enough offset FML. Time for new wheels

 

[LovinBoost]

Great thread!

 

[Yamahaulin]

I have the early 95 with the vented rear rotors. Can i still directly swap in the evo rears.