1G Engine Vibration after Timing belt Install?

[DSMDUDE]

Just changed timing belt and now engine sounds a bit like a coffee grinder between 3-4k rpm. I'm aware this is indicative of balance shaft being out of phase and haven't did the screw driver in back of block check yet. It doesn't sound or feel completely bad so is it possible it's off just a bit instead of being off a full rotation in either direction? I'm assuming if mechanical timing is right the front balance shaft has to be ok? Car runs strong and under boost don't really notice this noise but when accelerating off boost between 3-4k rpm is when I can really hear it. Is running it this way bad for the motor?

 

[pauleyman]

It doesn't matter. It happens to be compression stroke but as I said. If dowels are up AND all marks line up AND the screwdriver goes in the then it's right. Then and ONLY then are the marks right. You must also tension correctly then rotate the motor again and recheck tension. As stated above you do this to make sure there is or was no slack on the idle side. If marks remain lined up AND the protrusion is correct you are done. It's very very obejective. It's measurable and either is or isn't right. I don't know any other way to say it.

 

[DSMDUDE]

The cams are lined up + crank is on the mark and used the gravity check method for rear balance shaft/oil pump sprocket and watched #1 piston go TDC with long rod sitting on top of it. Checked auto tensioner clearance and adjusted things until grenade pin slides back in after turning motor at least 6 times and waiting 15 minutes.

The only thing I wasn't sure of was if piston #1 was at TDC on compression stroke or exhaust stroke becasue when I had belt off I probably turned crank without turning cams.


Waterpump was replaced several weeks ago when timing belt was originally changed but think I might've put a little more torque on bolts than spec when I was checking tightness and using brand new click-type torque wrench and unaware of how subtle the click is and wound up overtightening. Anyhow gasket was installed with light coat of permatex red on both sides and I don't see any leaks but if bolts are tighter than normal is this anything to worry about?

 

[pauleyman]

It didn't hurt anything but you did not need to check #1 piston with a screwdriver. Once the mark is lined up that's all you need. I said it doesn't matter which stroke because all you needed to know was dowels up on cams.
If you're worried about those water pump bolts loosen them and retighten. I personally would not but it isn't my car.
BTW that gravity method on oil pump shafts won't work if the seals are new. FYI for future iobs.

 

[MyKey J Orlando Jr]

Do a balance shaft eliminator.

 

[DSMDUDE]

Just got everything back together and seems good. Checked base timing which was dead on 5 degrees TDC which is quite good considering I set it last week off the cam gears using a non adjustable timing gun after watching a dsm'ers video

The thing I would do different next time is get the tensioner pulley tool becasue I put a little gouge in it using a pry bar so had to sand it but did get it set right though.

Thanks for the help!

 

[chrysler kid]

And it starts again. Good grief pauleyman you had some pateience