Engine pulling advice; rings, bearings and clutch need done

[Spoolin4Ever]

OK, here's the deal; Oil leaked on timing belt, valve hit pistons. Car was burning oil on boost long b4 that and narrowed it down to oil rings.

So what it looks like I need to do, based on my budget, I want to pull the engine, it needs a head, rings and bearings and my clutch has 80K on it so i might as well just do that while I am in there.

I need to buy the engine stand and hoist. I am working outside.

Should I take the head off first before pulling it? Because my head needs replaced or rebuilt anyway. So i am wondering if that will make it any easier.

Should I leave the transmission on the engine and do the clutch outside the car? Do I need to buy a trnamission stand?

I'm trying to save money where i can but I don't want to drop the tranny on my foot either hehe. Or can I use a milke crate or something?

I see engine stands at Harbor Freight, but not the engine puller/hoist. Any advice on the cherry picker/hoist? Think low budget! Trying to do a cheap rebuild for less than a used Scion, right?

This engine has been rebuilt in the past, it already has .050 oversize pistons. So Does that mean it can only be bored out one more time?

I think I can squeeze by with just a hone, rings and bearings because it has good compression, but burns oil on boost. I have confirmed all possibilites besides the oil rings.

How many punds engine stand would I need?

 

[My1GLaser]

HF has an engine hoist. They always have ridiculous sales and coupons. I think I ended up getting mine for less than $120 and its the larger one with foldable legs. I have the small 3 wheel engine stand.

The whole engine & tranny pulls out pretty well. Take all the pulleys off the timing side. The engine needs to come up first with tranny end at about a 15-20* angle to it. (If that makes sense) If you have a bench to set it on, it's pretty easy to dismantle and work on. Then you can just put the block on the engine stand to work on.

I didn't think they made .050" over pistons for our engine. Depending on your HP goals, I wouldn't go larger if that is the case. I'd have the cyls checked for taper and roundness before I assumed it can just be honed and re-ringed.

I'm curious how you narrowed it down to oil rings...

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

I'm not assumng anything, that's just what I anticipate is going to happen. I won't know until I pull the engine and measure the specs.

The reason i have narrowed it down to oil rings as because I've done replaced everything else that can cause it...so that is the last thing on the list of what it can be, that is how I narrowed it down. I rebuilt the turbo, and also tried another newer turbo, I put on oil catch cans that never got full even though it still burnt oil (on boost only), I tested the compression, I swapped the head (because of a burnt valve) with a known good head, and I replaced the oil return line. I've also tried soaking the cylinder walls with MMO, as well as I have seafoamed it in an attempt to alleviate any possible stuck rings or carbon that may have attributed to said oil burning on boost.

And when i say narrowed it down, I didn't say I knew conclusively either, I said i narrowed it down, which is exactly what i have done.

Thanks for the link that looks like a great idea! I'm gonna order me an engine stand here real soon.

The pistons either said .5 or .050 it has been a year, so whichever it is, that's what they say on them from the previous rebuild. It's got alot of miles since the last rebuild. Probably at least 150K on the block since that rebuild.

 

[BogusSVO]

.50mm =.020 over

For an engine stand, get a 4 wheel or "I" based engine stand, the 3 wheel "T" base engine stands are tippy when you roll them. Any 500 lbs or larger will work fine.

 

[Mike02rt]

The Harbor Freight hoist and stand are sufficient for this size motor. The 1 ton crane with fold-able legs stores nicely and the 3 leg 1 ton stand works well for the money. You might as well get the leveler they offer: 2 Ton Capacity Heavy Duty Load Leveler This makes pulling the engine and trans a lot easier.

When you pull the motor:
Bag all the bolts and label any/all connectors.
Pull the motor and the trans as a unit through the top. (Leveler helps angle it out of the bay)