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EgoThief

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Here’s what my cover looked like with the pan leaking 500 miles but mine never got onto the tbelt. I used Honda bond on both sides. Didn’t want to do the job over again.

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😫😫 the part about not wanting to do it again, i feel that the most 🤣🤣

Looks like ill be on my back today LOL

Thanks man, i appreciate you 💪🏼🤝🏼🤘🏻
 
I think i need get rid of this fan. I cant connect this damn setup & i really want to use this fmic.
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2 days ago i purchased this box for the battery at autozone for like 20$. I threw a self tapping screw to hold it down.( yes, just one LOL)i will add a vent to escape the vehicle.
I used this terminal i had purchased a while back for my brothers radio system.(ill get him another) i used a "stinger" brand 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer to hook up my power cable to terminal.

I purchased a 150 circuit breaker from oreilly but the terminals post are 5/16. I had to order 0 gauge terminal ends w 5/16 ends to hook it up properly. I tried used flat washers to grab but the terminal ends was to large(whole). I await them.

Ive been procrastinating on doing a boost leak check because i dont understand where to turn the engine to so that the valves are closed.(fear, for whatever reason. I applied air from my compressor and w the 1-2lbs going through, i noticed my bov was leaking. I dont have a gasket and there wasnt one before.(orange gasket maker). I cleaned the surfaces well & applied grey gasket maker & let it sit for 24hrs.

My uncle wanted me to learn how to adjust the valve lash on my brothers Honda D16 motor which we are building for boost.(3days ago) I read online & w the hands on, i began to see how it works. I used that confidence to apply myself on my engine(4g63) & closed my valves for this boost leak check. Immediately it began to hold more pressure than 2 lbs and was up to 8 but i had some hissing coming from my injectors. While i sprayed w water/soap, i found 2 cylinders spewing it away on cylinders 4 & 3.

The insulators looked to be the issue. I read about 40 articles on it yesterday & purchased a kit each. I did not order oem insulators because w all the parts oem, it would have quickly added up to 80$. If the leak doesnt fix with the new kit/insulators, ill purchase just that piece and try again. Ill go from there. My current insulators are plastic, i believe unless it was rubber at once 🤣🤣. I dont have a reference.

Since im waiting for these small parts & my ecmlinkv3, ill probably attack buffing my headslights/foglights this weekend. My led h3 bulbs came in for my fogs, ill aim to get them installed as well. ill probably build or get me another gauge for my tester because it doesnt go past 20lbs i belive.🤘🏻
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No problem man. Hope that’s your issue and it fixes it.
I looked closely and i did have a fel pro gasket in place already. I just snugged the bolts a bit more like a lb or 2 & ill have to wait to see what happens next. I sprayed dawn soap/water on the belt/gears and turned the engine by hand whiping the belt/gears(soaked first, i dried the belt and gears w my blue towels). It worked amazingly.
 
When i did the boost leak check, i was leaking from this egr plate. I removed the metal gasket & applied some grey gasket maker. I turnt my piping forward so it wasnt hitying my transmission line bracket. My terminals came in & i mounted one by the firewall. Im still using my stock fuse setup so im just placing everything back they were originally. Ill place my power line to terminal which will make it hot. I want to add a hazard or warning sticker for anyone who is under the hood, incase.


I was at my brothers and was reading over Marty's recommendations on using this mcguires product. We wet sanded with 1000 grit, washed down with dawn soap/water. All the yellow was running off. I applied a bit of mcquire and used some inexpensive buffer. My brother held the buffer while i applied the lights. It took us a good 10-15 mins each from wet sanding, whipping & buffing.
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Finally all my parts came in friday. I just finished rebuilding my throttle body. New seals, gasket, and o rings. While assembling, i noticed my throttle body didnt have that white plastic piece and that screw/bolt you set to keep the butterfly from sticking. I removed those pieces from a 90 throttle body i had spare. My end terminals came in & i was able to complete my battery relocation. I flipped the breaker on amd everything lit up normally. Ill boost leak check tomorrow, assemble my fenders,bumper back & pick up some new oil to get it ready.

My dsmlink v3 is here so i plan on starting the vehicle with my oem maf back on, go get my exhaust installed and get some new rear tires. Once this is done, ill switch my plugs back to the speed density connectors, open link and finish hooking up this aem uego/wideband.

Im headin to garage to tape that terminal by post under hood, just noticed 😅
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I cant quite remember where i left off. Ecmv3 came in. The vehicle wouldnt start so i started messing with things in the program and set it to 1g, oem im. I got it going. Using my oem maf, driving, i noticed idle jumping up and down down since rebuild of throttle body. Theres so much stuff to learn and dial in before i can even open up this thing. I remember getting extremely frustrated because i need to learn all these new terms, math for injectors, still fighting oil leak from pan, wideband 02 dont work, LED and grounding button missing, idle surge, isc getting hot, tuning, no boost leaks, having to figure that, all this bs


I gave it all a break for a week, now i have to dial in isc, the damn set screw, but i notice with just my key forward my isc was getting hot. I read, these short out and burn something in the ecu. These cars man, i tell u...smh

I purchased a new isc, new t bolt clamps, and new innovate lc2(upgrade from lc1)

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Im upset writing this cause my lc2 just came in today and now i gotta attack this all. Hahahah

To do : install lc2 system, new isc, bead ic pipes, replace t bolt clamps, boost leak test, ground something to set base idle, get something to .63v, set up lc2 to make sure works, and who knows where next,... these things dont come w instructions LOL
 
We’ve all been there man. Just tackle one job at a time. Jafromobile has a couple of video on tuning before tuning. They’re so helpful and better than Ecmlink’s demo videos which I don’t think are available anymore. Search jafromobile tuning 101.
 
We’ve all been there man. Just tackle one job at a time. Jafromobile has a couple of video on tuning before tuning. They’re so helpful and better than Ecmlink’s demo videos which I don’t think are available anymore. Search jafromobile tuning 101.
Thanks man, ill check them out. knowing you guys have been here as well, helps keep me on the grind 💪🏼
 
Boost leak checked the vehicle. Wouldnt hold over 4psi. I found the ports by throttle body needed 2 tie straps. Found a leak in my fmic. Unistalled all pipes & SD kit cause going to have to use oem sidemount and my iat sensor is on a pipe that side mount doesnt need. I have a fmic for a 2g(idk why) but none of my pipes are letting me get it to work. I went t back to oem, held 16psi with ease 1st go.



Began installing lc2 system. Wired power straight from battery, relay. Ground from battery. I just need to wire my fuel pump next. I just remembered. Welded a bunch of wires for ground from battery LOL

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I put everything back together yesterday and got to drive it to my uncles shop. I noticed when the circuit breaker is open (no power to car)(cause im working on electrical) & when i turn it on, i lost my calibration on WB02. I also had to go through ecmlink, adjust the little settings & change to 1g so i can turn it on. I had other settings with the fmic and SD.

With all my mods, i have no idea what is a reasonable idle, idk my fuel trim shyt, none of that. Dont get me wrong, im extremely computer literate & can get this up and running on my own but i work/learn so so so much faster when im being taught in person/phone/real connection. Im not into these youtube tutorials whos first agenda is to get views.


Im complaining again cause when i returned, my mf timing belt was soaked with oil again. Ive changed the oil pan gasket 3 or 4 times, all different ways & nothing. Im finishing up my coffe and ima go tear down that side, remove lower cover, put back balancer and crank to see if i can see the leak. It has to be a seal, back there.


i need to fix this leak before i can do anything
🤨😐😑😣😪


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You shouldn't have to recalibrate an lc2 if you turn the power off. What is it doing to make you think that? Get with Robin Arias in Houston and he'll tune the car in person.

Start the car with a log and post it with relevant mods so we can get you started.
 
You shouldn't have to recalibrate an lc2 if you turn the power. What is it doing to make you think that? Get with Robin Arias in Houston and he'll tune the car in person.
I calibrated prior taking the vehicle out, 2 days ago i believe. When i had turned everything back on, my gauge had the 7.2 code or whatever number on it.

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You shouldn't have to recalibrate an lc2 if you turn the power off. What is it doing to make you think that? Get with Robin Arias in Houston and he'll tune the car in person.

Start the car with a log and post it with relevant mods so we can get you started.
Thank you Vegas, ill look into that person this evening after i tackle this mystery leak. I really appreciate u man
 
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