EgoThief

[pieceofcloth]

 

[AWD-Tony]

Looks to be under the cover. Remove the cover, clean it and run the motor.

The factory oil pressure sensor doesn’t look to be in far enough. This is mine

 

[pieceofcloth]

Oil pool under crank/seal
Cams seal clean

 

[pieceofcloth]

Im looking at the bolt heads and how they have oil around bolts. oil could have been slinged on from belt. But oil could seep around? Going to clean up amd reassemble without cover now.

 

[AWD-Tony]

The timing belt will fling it up as you can see on the inside of the timing cover. How old is the crank seal, oem?

 

[pieceofcloth]

Looks to be under the cover. Remove the cover, clean it and run the motor.

The factory oil pressure sensor doesn’t look to be in far enough. This is mine

View attachment 642305

I had cracked an OFH before this one. Im not leaking from there, but yes i am afraid to go a bit more. I believe i have enough thread on it, good eye tho.

 

[pieceofcloth]

The timing belt will fling it up as you can see on the inside of the timing cover. How old is the crank seal, oem?

I rebuilt this with all new seals. It was an older(new) seal though i believe. I was gifted a lot of oem seals but this build is over 10yrs old and seals could be weathered. Could have failed or user error.

 

[pieceofcloth]

 

[AWD-Tony]

Oil pan? And BS tensioner bolt?

 

[pieceofcloth]

Turned on fine, nothing was being shown. I reved it just a bit, went below and seen my pan drooling. Idk man

 

[pieceofcloth]

Oil pan? And BS tensioner bolt?

I think BS bolt as well, i do need to take off the pulleys and look behind again

 

[AWD-Tony]

If you’re going to remove the pan, put it on a flat surface and check the flatness. Two of my bolt holes were stretched about 2mm so I hammered them flat. I think that’s going to fix mine.

 

[pieceofcloth]

If you’re going to remove the pan, put it on a flat surface and check the flatness. Two of my bolt holes were stretched about 2mm so I hammered them flat. I think that’s going to fix mine.

Im going to let it cool for couple of hours. Ill remove the pan, check flatness, & go over all the bolts for it as well. Ill be back to attack it, this evening. Thank you so much Tony & Vegas for your patience & time/help. Yall some real ones

 

[pieceofcloth]

Huge update since October :

Oil leak fixed, added new seal to the oil pump which is brand new. Used dawn soap and water bottle to let it trickle/pour down on belt, i hand turned cleaning oil off. Its very clean & the bt is fine.


Vehicle holds 18lbs easily and well.
Idle surge was next issue to tackle before anything. All seals, o rings etc had been replaced on throttle body. Tony & i diagnosed the iacv stuck. Took it off, ran hot hot water on/thru it to see it function. It did not. We attempted to repair, no luck. Purchased a bypass plate, deleted the water coolant hoses and the issue was still there. I checked my isc for continuity & volts. It would only budge a hair when power was applied. I mistakenly applied 12v which it says NOT to do. My isc was fried. Purchased an inexpensive ebay isc for 20 bucks. Isc still reads 0. We took off all vacuum lines to pin point leak. No leak but we eliminated the bs in the corner for emissions

I ran one intake hose straight to my boost gauge and the other to my adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Isc still at 0. We upped my set rpms for my 280s at 1k and isc started reacting more than it has ever. Isc at 30, tps at .63, no surge.


Today we accomplished the isc /idle surge. We were ready to take for a small cruise around the block, i blipped the throttle to check my rebuild from months ago. I noticed it stuck a bit. We stopped in our tracks & began to attack the throttle plate. I took my sweet time, and made sure my nut on the spring side and nuts on tps weren't too tight. Light shined thru equally, feels smoother and nothing sticks. Applied red loctite on two inner screws, adjusted tps again and throttle. Idle switch works correctly as well.

Everything is looking extremely promising for tomorrow. Tony & i have been at this for a good month now & its difficult for me to put in words how much he & all of you all, with the info available on here, have helped me get this machine going. I got nothing but love & respect for you guys.

Much love to you all & happy holidays

(Ill post plenty of videos once we get it rolling)

 

[AWD-Tony]

Hell yeah brother. Glad to see that she’s pretty much almost there. Should be smooth sailing from here . You are dedicated so I’m happy to help.

 

[pieceofcloth]

That would lead me to believe there is a wiring issue. 7.2afr= 0 volts for an LC2. I would think there is no signal to the gauge from the o2 sensor

Youre absolutely right. I had wrote ecmlink to see if they have had issues with 02 sensors being dead on arrival. They just sent me the wiki links and instructions. Yes, they did write me a little help & i knew it had to be on my end.


Maybe the lc1 is wired differently, maybe i had to much going on because it was the first instruction i had missed. I was one wire off. The gauge & everything began to work. I noticed it didnt show up in link & a quick article from Marty said i needed to split that signal wire. The lc2, gauge and link are working perfectly fine.


Wiring up this lil fuse box probably overloaded me. Now these relays, boxes & other electronics are so much easier to do. Im still learning these terms like deadtime, global, afr, lftlo, etc.. ill get it soon. Tony has been in Miyagi mode & has helped me get this thing rolling. FOREVER grateful for all yall

Ill tuck this all away neatly tomorrow

 

[pieceofcloth]

Tony & i have got this monster on the road. We've got up to the WOT part & had to adjust a few other things. My throttle cable being twisted under the intake would have my accelerator sticking. I took apart my throttle body and adjusted like 3 times in one day .

I threw the cable ontop over the intake amd valve cover. With the extra twisting undone, the gas pedal works great. My uncles business partner, Abel said it had to be the cable because the spring on the TB is strong enough to slap it back. Sure nough..


I believe my AFR were a bit high or acting up on WOT. I am running my 1g maf and we were at the point of cleaning it. I purchased a can of CNC but got a bat signal from some one and decided to look it up. We can NOT use this stuff on our mafs. I saw a bunch of classic post about it & how cans of this CNC never labeled it. My can does now


I asked whats next or how can we make our lives easier. He said 2g maf. My fmic is leaking(i need to double check) and my IAT sensor is on a straight pipe that i cant use while my oem side mount is in use.

Tony blessed me with one he had laying around. And i began to get things rolling on my end with a custom harness so we can get with it.

I have a box full of connectors, one being a transistor. I removed pin 8 and put in pin 5 spot & followed the instructions on dsmfaqs site. I ripped my 1g maf apart, extended the wires on the transistor & began.


I tried soldering but im using a pos tool, im jacked up on coffee so my hands are in no shape or form for this type of surgery . I place a connector, a piece of solder and placed wire in, hoping i could heat the wire and the solder would bind it all. It didnt

I just pre crimped to place over the prongs, it fit snug so i cramped onto wires next, then placed back over. I used my ryobi glue gun afterwards to hold it all into place. I checked continuity & everything looks extremely promising. Ill wrap these wires up with that black plastic wrap stuff tomorrow & we should be good to go

 

[pieceofcloth]

 

[pieceofcloth]

This he351 isn't going to fit. I've clocked it in all directions & with this OEM radiator, there's no chance. I have an mvr44 & this brand new turbo & can't do shyt with it. Now I gotta read up on which bolt on style turbo will help push this engine. I'm not paying no 800 + for a manifold and I'm not replacing this radiator. I still need a fmic

I feel my best bet is to sell all this stuff & save up for a new setup. My brain hurts from all this

 

[AWD-Tony]

Bummer. Yeah there’s a lot that goes into turbo selections that aren’t stock frame. Good luck Lorenzo!!!

 

[pieceofcloth]

Bummer. Yeah there’s a lot that goes into turbo selections that aren’t stock frame. Good luck Lorenzo!!!

Right on T

I'm looking into a 20g setup. I can't sell this stuff. I rather throw it back in the closet till a time comes. I ain't done with machine. this isn't the first time it's said no to me .

 

[habitatguy187]

So what's the current status of the car? Running and driving? What about pulling a radiator from a small car at the junkyard and mounting it under the front core support? Can usually create a few easy inches that way.

And if you need a cheap fmic, pm me. You can damn near have it if you pay for shipping.

 

[pieceofcloth]

So what's the current status of the car? Running and driving? What about pulling a radiator from a small car at the junkyard and mounting it under the front core support? Can usually create a few easy inches that way.

And if you need a cheap fmic, pm me. You can damn near have it if you pay for shipping.

The vehicle runs perfectly fine. I didn't get to drive it much at all cause my 1g maf was acting up. I have the 2g maf now but I don't think I can get it hooked up to the holset. I have Speed density but I need a front mount because my iat sensor is on a straight pipe and I only have OEM side. I gave my 16g to my brother with his Honda setup. He was saying the same thing about using a half sized radiator. I'm just not familiar with these Mitsubishi cooling systems. We know they're extremely picky and I'd hate to be fighting my car to keep cool.

I have a t3 to t3 adapter w a wastegate spot on side of it and that throws the turbo out forward a bit. Im going to look and see if I can push the radiator out forward like you say. That could definitely help.


It's either pay for a 20g and bolt it all up w the side mount and 2g maf, or purchase a fmic and small radiator to hook up this turbo up to SD. One is easier and will cost me less.

I'm just trying to drive the damn thing and get it around 350-450. I am fwd and I'm about 30 seconds to turning the "shep 3" AWD transmission to fwd. I think both my wheels will spin then. I've got 99% of every option and looking to spend the least at the moment. That's why I'm just ready to bolt it up, get a street tune & enjoy the damn thing.

 

[pieceofcloth]

So what's the current status of the car? Running and driving? What about pulling a radiator from a small car at the junkyard and mounting it under the front core support? Can usually create a few easy inches that way.

And if you need a cheap fmic, pm me. You can damn near have it if you pay for shipping.

Thank you for offering the fmic. I greatly appreciate you for that brudder, that's real

 

[pieceofcloth]