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EgoThief

Year
1993
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
I removed the front plate w oil pump and placed a hose where the pickup would be. I ran fluid thru and manually primed pump while cover the passage to see if pressure was there. The pump worked perfectly and pressure was shown. This leads me to believe either my bearings on balance shaft are not in place or the squirters may be "open"(not sure if that's the term). I'm going to remove the pan completely, place the front plate back on w oil filter housing & do the same test. I will be able to see where the flow is excessive/ not letting pressure build. The motor essentially will need to come back out, I just want to check while I'm under here.

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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
With all this in work and it still being on downtime, and while I got the money LOL, im going to get my ecu chipped w dsmlink. I will swap in my new injectors, and install the he351. I may have had some type of fear where I felt the need to break in the engine w the 16g. I'm neck deep and might as well get what is needed to run the he351 which is some type of adapter for external wastegate, then another adapter from 38mm to 44mm. My tial is 44mm and I can not afford the TSmanifold to properly complete this.

I'm sure a new radiator will need to be purchased. I'll cross that bridge when I get there and when some more dough comes in LOL

I love this game :cool:
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
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The shaft was cut and didn't realize it wasn't plugged up. I may not be building normal oil pressure because of this. The front bearings are turnt and rear shaft receives oil thru the shaft so this is where I'm at. My uncle is going to knock it out this week at his shop.

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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Last month i replaced the oil pump/front plate with an ACL. My oil pressure went perfectly to normal upon on start up and continues to flow/hold great. I purchased the tensioner tool to tighten my timing belt and used a rod from a hardware store w two nuts on the end to help with push the timing tension rod back down. It took me a good 6 times to get it all right. From changing the pump, cracking the oil filter housing from over tightening the sensors, adjusting tension, i done tore this car apart more than 8 times in 1 week LOL. It did not bother me one bit because my love for this machine and will is stronger than my inner bytch. This machine has taught me extreme patience, knowledge of engines, turbos, fuel & so much more. Reading everyone's situations and everything on this forum back and forth has helped me more than i can explain. I have built a specific pride in all of this and can now get an idea on how most of you guys feel.


Right now i took it for my 3rd test run/break in and made it to my uncles shop. My adrenaline is rushing thru the roof and i havent even gone over 4k rpms LOL.


More updates to come, thank you all
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
The vehicle is back on the stands. I kept reading about shimming the pivot ball and i went ahead and said fuqit.i purchased a new fork, pivotball and clip. Ill still shim the ball up to 2mm or two washers. Ill adjust up by the master if needed. The down time allows me to do a few things to tighten this machine up.i also Purchased the alternator relocating kit and even in year 2021, no instructions included & their pdf link doesnt work ,so i went off pictures and common sense.

Come to find out i now need to trim this side mount bracket, after i done finished installing this pos. 😡🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬

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oh well.. ill gidder done tomorrow
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,623
2,398
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
i also Purchased the alternator relocating kit and even in year 2021, no instructions included & their pdf link doesnt work ,so i went off pictures and common sense.
Yeah it's pretty incredible. As soon as you install or get most of the way there you then have to redo stuff all the time. I've never been able to get the timing right on the first try even after all these years but it's worth it to do it right.
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
I had stripped my stud where the fuel tank belt/straps connects to. I rethreaded it & got that tightened up. I also installed this DW rewire kit for the fuel pump. I think i got it right. Im not sure about the ground but it looks promising 😅
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
3& half hours later w prep, battery charging, flashlight charging, clean up, testing & misplacing tools😓
I did take my time

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Saw that point so i took off belt and used my file to flatten that edge off
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😀😁😎🤘🏻
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
The Oil pressure relief valve bolt was a bit loose. I had forgot to tighten it all the way before install. It didnt leak enough for me to worry on my test runs/break in. I went ahead and took care of it now. Had to chop up one my wrenches(and could use a bit more material takin off) but i got it tighten pretty good now. Ill attack extending my alternator harness tomorrow. 😓
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Replaced with oem clutch fork, pivot ball, pin and slave cylinder. Did a quick gravity bleed and manually pushed slave cylinder & bled that as well. Alternator has been relocated, the wires have been extended. I wired my fuel pump to recieve 14v w a kit from Deatchwerks but when i tried to turn off my car, it wouldn't 😂

I had to remove the CAS plug and then i just removed my inline fuses to the relay so it can operate stock. Ill mess with it maybe later this week. It turned on fine but my alternator belt was screaming so i tighten it up a bit more.

Im goin to head to my uncles to check if my alternator is charging properly & maybe to get him to help bleed the clutch again. Thank you all again for yalls help, time & all. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻

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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
The vehicle has been acting very well these past 2/3 days. I wanted my brother and uncle to drive it for the experience & mission completed. I did blow a coupler twice. I replaced the tightenting straps w those t bolt types & everything seemed well. I got it up to 9 lbs i believe. Its difficult to look at the gauge and drive at the same time LOL.

I am mix matching my pipes because i have 2 kits and im not sure which go to which, plus i feel one of the couplers is a bit too short. I have a box full at my brothers which im picking up tonight.

The oil pressure relief valve didnt get as tight as i needed it to be and my special 22mm wrench didnt want to work(not enough room). I noticed my belt looking glossy and i nedd to figure out why. Im guessing its the relief valve.
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So basicly the vehicle is on down time and it gives me a chance to tighten up things the right way. Took 10 mins to get the cover off, ill replace the shim and get it to spec on the oil pressure relief valve. Im going to place my battery in the trunk for space, ill be installing one these fmic and FINALLY send my ecu out to get dsmlink. I know i said it before but i had to test/try the vehicle in "stock" form so we,(brother and uncle) can feel the difference. 🤘🏻
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
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I got to get another set of eyes on this. My plastic cover is cracked from when i tried to tighten the OPRV & of course there not being any room. With it not completely tighten down(oil pressure relief valve)and it maybe dripping, Would it be enough to get inside, onto the belt and soak it all up? I had great oil level (dipstick)every drive & great oil pressure.

Any opinions?
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Yesterday i removed the oil filter housing & torqued the relief valve properly, added a new shim to it, checked/retorque the oil filter stud that goes inbetween the filter. I also replaced the ofh gasket w a new one.

Now that my family has felt the "stock" form, im leaving the vehicle on the stands. Today i plan removing the 16g & port the exhaust side of it. I also plan on installing this fmic. I dont think i have a jpipe for it so i may be asking in the classifieds soon
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
I went ahead and decided to cut my side mount. Ill be removing the power steering bracket tomorrow. I cut a couple of small spots to fit this fmic. I do need a j pipe for it though.
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
I purchased a j pipe tuesday from user on here. It arrived this afternoon. Ive been working on this crash beam for a good 2-3 days. I ran out of wheels this first day(2), yesterday i drilled out these spot welds and cut some more. Today i finished banging out the middle brackets on the beam and cutting the brackets that attach to the frame. I put in a good 2-3 hrs each day, with recharging batteries for the drill, not being so consistent for the neighbors & cleaning up all the metal material flying around. I have two spots where some brackets will mount the fmic to the frame/vehicle but i have no brackets. Ill have to figure out how to get it secured tomorrow.
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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
My brother came over amd told me to flip the fmic, so i did. I was now able to mount it to the front support. I purchased some 0 gauge wire and ran my battery to the rear. I need to get a distro block for the front power wires. I just placed the wires for prep. I also installed this new JMF battery bracket. It should hold it pretty good. The bottom of the "tray" is supported by a single bolt. Ill need to fill that empty space / rig something up so it doesnt sway around.

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Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,623
2,398
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I hope that j-pipe fits. A lot of them are really tall and would likely not fit that setup. If it doesn't, you can just buy a 12-18" 2.5" pipe and a 90* coupler and use those as your lower pipe setup.
 
Last edited:

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
5,118
2,304
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Did you find the leak? From looking at the pics, it looks like the oil pan to me. My oil pan was leaking and it would get on the timing cover. Guessing the motion of the crank pulley slings it all over. I used a felpro gasket and that fixed my issue.
 

pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
220
67
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Did you find the leak? From looking at the pics, it looks like the oil pan to me. My oil pan was leaking and it would get on the timing cover. Guessing the motion of the crank pulley slings it all over. I used a felpro gasket and that fixed my issue.
Man im not quite sure yet. The oprv is a spot that i knew was leaking. I was thinking the same about the pan & I do have an extra fel pro laying around in the living room 😂. got the oil & coolant drained atm so ima go take a strong stare at it & see.

When i would leave the vehicle running, the oprv was the one spot dripping. I sent out my two computers out to the dsmlink headquarters yesterday so ill be out till i get them back. Currently debating on a 150 breaker or 200 for the battery relocation, buffing my headlights(they look yellow), & ordering some struts for the hood. I still need to apply some dawn soap & water on the belt to remove the oil. It wasnt soaked but i just dont want to take any chances, the belt has less that 300 miles. Its dryer than before so im not too worried. I should be fine.

Also, did you just placed the oil pan gasket or did you use some gasket maker as well?
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
5,118
2,304
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Here’s what my cover looked like with the pan leaking 500 miles but mine never got onto the tbelt. I used Honda bond on both sides. Didn’t want to do the job over again.

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