For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No - Fuel trims are dialed in with the injector global deadtime. Leave the SD tables alone until we get the fuel system calibrated.
Alright, my current setup is 1200cc fic injectors and rn i have my global % at 43 I think and dead time at 330
Sounds like it is still idling too fast, so you should try closing your BISS screw.
Nvm car still surges once warm. And it won’t actually lock timing. Ecm link showers 5 my timing light shows 20-30 while it’s surging. I really don’t know what else to even do. I’ll put in the idle air control tomorrow.
You cant check timing if rpm is going up and down.Nvm car still surges once warm. And it won’t actually lock timing. Ecm link showers 5 my timing light shows 20-30 while it’s surging. I really don’t know what else to even do. I’ll put in the idle air control tomorrow.
While surging, when rpm is at its lowest point (900), airflow is .36, fuel trims read zero, isc position is 44,
When rpm gets to highest point (1800) fuel trims still read 0, airflow is .29, isc position is still 44.
That is when the car is is open loop I’m pretty sure. Surging the same with closed loop but fuel trims read 0 at low rpm then slowy rise about to about +6-10 while surging.
I’m 2 months into ownership and I’ve driven it 15 minutes
I know that. Car wasn’t surging till I already started.
Or if I remember correctly if the RPMs are over something like 1200 rpm. The ECU drops out of check timing mode somewhere around there.
There are more than a few that post here that have driven far less - in a far greater span of time - regardless - I feel your pain.I’m 2 months into ownership and I’ve driven it 15 minutes
Well let's see what it does when you put the new ISC in.
I’m also going to manually close my fiav since I think it’s been deleted and that could be a cause. And i ordered my isc from carparts with the same oem part number
Pictures of the TB please.
I was just gonna manually close it, saw it on a yt vid. And the coolant lines do loop around, I was able to see that once I looked farther down. Just the hole on the throttle body when the hoses when previously. And I’m okay with some cold start issues I’m not to worried about that.
Regards the Vacuum ports P-E-A1, and A2. Don't loop them - use them or cap them. Looping them allows air to move from one side of the throttle plate to the other - it creates a vacuume leak that won't show up on a boost leak test.
Those ports are used for EGR, and Charcoal evap canister solenoids - part of the Fed/CA emissions system. The vacuume hose diagram under the hood or in the service manual will tell you where they go.
It's a mystery then, what they will send you. So when you get it, please take some photos of the part itself and any packaging that has clues as to the brand and actual part number of the part. And show us the photos.
How can I restore the fiav? Just figured out I can’t just close it in a 2g throttle body. And don’t have a block off plate rn
Want to catch this before it's too late. You don't want a blockoff plate anyway. If you decide to disable the FIAV at some time, you would do it with a Bypass plate, not a blockoff plate.
Alright thanks, how can I restore my fiav right now though? Where are the coolant hoses or where would they be
I'm really no help for how to get the FIAV working. I never messed with mine and that was on a 1g anyway.
Shoot, well I really appreciate the reply. I’ll probably go to oreillys and get some coolant hose because it’s looking like the old ones were taken out. Do you by chance know which ports on the thermostat they go to?
Hoses I can help - I’ll take some pics when I get home. Are you running a 2G waterneck? it is slightly different than the 1G water neck, but both work.
