ECMlink ECMLink not reading things I’m logging

[Zanaqqq]

Okay so last night all my values were reading and my car was running okay. Now half my values I log don’t read anymore and car is running bad. I’ve uploaded a picture of a log where the car was running. I’m running speed density on a GM IAT with AEM wideband

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[We're on Boost]

Do you by chance know which ports on the thermostat they go to?

No I don't know. But the 2g guys can help you, and you might be able to figure it out from the 2g factory service manual that most of us use in here for 2g stuff.
That you can download as a pdf file. It's 77MB.
Here is the direct link from Tim Zimmer's Google Drive

That link is here in tuners on this page if you want to check it out before hitting the download button. Same URL is given there. Download it to your computer. It is a searchable pdf, which is awesome.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Hoses I can help - I’ll take some pics when I get home. Are you running a 2G waterneck? it is slightly different than the 1G water neck, but both work.

Why would you not remove the freeze plug screw the valve closed?

Okay I got it off how do I close it properly? I uploaded a pic beloew

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[Justin DuBois]

When you say freeze plug what is that? I see a bronze cap where the fiav itself would be I assume

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Yes - that cap is what I'm referring to - Pry it off without damaging it. You have to put it back where it goes. Inside is the FIAV

Okay I got it off how do I close it properly? I uploaded a pic beloew

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Good - needle nose pliers, or if you have a tool to remove spring clips with two pointy ends, try and rotate the valve clockwise to close it down. This sets the "range" of operation.

I took pictures on the car - and then realized it is easier to mock up a tb and water neck on the engine stand:

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The “back” fiav coolant port goes to the water pipe. Its the same pipe that goes to the hose to the heater core through the firewall. note the hose in the picture.

The “front” fiav coolant port goes to the under side of the thermostat. A 2g water neck mounts the thermostat sideways and the ports should be similar. the small port is for the TB and the large one goes to the other hose to the heater core.

 

[Zanaqqq]

I took pictures on the car - and then realized it is easier to mock up a tb and water neck on the engine stand:

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The “back” fiav coolant port goes to the water pipe. Its the same pipe that goes to the hose to the heater core through the firewall. note the hose in the picture.

The “front” fiav coolant port goes to the under side of the thermostat. A 2g water neck mounts the thermostat sideways and the ports should be similar. the small port is for the TB and the large one goes to the other hose to the heater core.

could I just screw the fiav down and cap those coolant hose ports and all the other ports and call it goodb

 

[Justin DuBois]

could I just screw the fiav down and cap those coolant hose ports and all the other ports and call it goodb

worth a shot - will give you more information.

 

[Zanaqqq]

worth a shot - will give you more information.

Did it, car works it idles I set my base timing, we are all good now. Just dialing in the tune. Will update if anything happens

 

[Zanaqqq]

okay so car bogs and back fires while giving gas at lower rpm. and when in pulls even in lower boost it is rich. ive uploaded a log below. my sd table that ecmlink is recomending seems weird and uneven

 

[Justin DuBois]

okay so car bogs and back fires while giving gas at lower rpm. and when in pulls even in lower boost it is rich. ive uploaded a log below. my sd table that ecmlink is recomending seems weird and uneven

Agree - Combined FT VE adjust is not what you want to do right now.

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These corrections are wonky - First reset the VE table back to where it was with smooth transitions. Fuel trims and injector dead times are where you want to play.

Lets look at what is happening to your fuel trims. Here I selected an area of your log that is all warmed up - and set to display selection averages.

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Note the fuel trims - selected and combined.
Combined is telling us that your dead times look reasonable for idle. What you can do now is ECU->"Reset Fuel Trims" and see where Combined FT goes. You want to see it stay close to 0 - If you reset the fuel trims and Combined FT immediately adds a correction, you can play with the dead times until Combined FT and Selected LTFT are 0.

What you want to look at next is the Peak VE in the table and Global Fuel. You want to capture a 3rd gear pull - starting at 2000 rpm going up past 5500 rpm at around 15psi of boost - and eventually you will want a pull that goes all the way to redline - but for the early setup start with a WOT and see what happens. If your start getting knock - back out of it.

You will use the WOT pull going through the 4.5K rpm VE peak in the VE table to get a WB Factor at that spot. The WB factor will tell you how much your Global Fuel is Rich or Lean.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Agree - Combined FT VE adjust is not what you want to do right now.

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These corrections are wonky - First reset the VE table back to where it was with smooth transitions. Fuel trims and injector dead times are where you want to play.

Lets look at what is happening to your fuel trims. Here I selected an area of your log that is all warmed up - and set to display selection averages.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Note the fuel trims - selected and combined.
Combined is telling us that your dead times look reasonable for idle. What you can do now is ECU->"Reset Fuel Trims" and see where Combined FT goes. You want to see it stay close to 0 - If you reset the fuel trims and Combined FT immediately adds a correction, you can play with the dead times until Combined FT and Selected LTFT are 0.

What you want to look at next is the Peak VE in the table and Global Fuel. You want to capture a 3rd gear pull - starting at 2000 rpm going up past 5500 rpm at around 15psi of boost - and eventually you will want a pull that goes all the way to redline - but for the early setup start with a WOT and see what happens. If your start getting knock - back out of it.

You will use the WOT pull going through the 4.5K rpm VE peak in the VE table to get a WB Factor at that spot. The WB factor will tell you how much your Global Fuel is Rich or Lean.

okay so i reset table back and same with fuel but kept my grobal deadtime at -44 with 330 deadtime where it should be and i uploaded a idle log below with everything reset. fuel trims still went up 16.8 and 20.1 once it went into closed loop again.

 

[Justin DuBois]

okay so i reset table back and same with fuel but kept my grobal deadtime at -44 with 330 deadtime where it should be and i uploaded a idle log below with everything reset. fuel trims still went up 16.8 and 20.1 once it went into closed loop again.

(Sigh) Sorry - Too cold. I maybe forgot to mention - no adjustments unless the engine temps are 190-210 f

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After the engine is fully warmed up - go to the ECU menu and "Reset Fuel trims" - Then go the fuel tab and adjust global dead time - as you adjust dead time "Save to ECU" so that it takes the edit - and see which way the Combined FT goes. Adjust Global dead time until Combined FT is +-0 in real time.

Global Dead time affects idle closed loop.
Global Fuel affects WOT AFR alignment

 

[Zanaqqq]

(Sigh) Sorry - Too cold. I maybe forgot to mention - no adjustments unless the engine temps are 190-210 f

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After the engine is fully warmed up - go to the ECU menu and "Reset Fuel trims" - Then go the fuel tab and adjust global dead time - as you adjust dead time "copy to ECU" so that it takes the edit - and see which way the Combined FT goes. Adjust Global dead time until Combined FT is +-0 in real time.

Global Dead time affects idle closed loop.
Global Fuel affects WOT AFR alignment

Okay I got tha now they read between -5 and 5 most of the time. Sometimes go up to -10 and sometimes positive 10 and when it does that rpm also increasss.

theres a log to

 

[Zanaqqq]

(Sigh) Sorry - Too cold. I maybe forgot to mention - no adjustments unless the engine temps are 190-210 f

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After the engine is fully warmed up - go to the ECU menu and "Reset Fuel trims" - Then go the fuel tab and adjust global dead time - as you adjust dead time "copy to ECU" so that it takes the edit - and see which way the Combined FT goes. Adjust Global dead time until Combined FT is +-0 in real time.

Global Dead time affects idle closed loop.
Global Fuel affects WOT AFR alignment

do i go cruising or just focus on WOT? whats next step? also car idles at 1000-1100 when my target idle is 850

 

[Justin DuBois]

do i go cruising or just focus on WOT? whats next step? also car idles at 1000-1100 when my target idle is 850

Lowering your idle would be helpful - Where is the BISS set? You want the ISC step at 30ish holding idle at target. I also wanted to ask if you have set your base fuel pressure?

 

[Zanaqqq]

Lowering your idle would be helpful - Where is the BISS set? I also wanted to ask if you have set your base fuel pressure?

base fuel is 43.5 with my aem regulator. and my biss is all the way in i think. my biss screw isnt in the best condition though

 

[Justin DuBois]

base fuel is 43.5 with my aem regulator. and my biss is all the way in i think. my biss screw isnt in the best condition though

replace the o-ring?

 

[Zanaqqq]

replace the o-ring?

the screw itself is pretty cooked ngl. ill prob by a new one off stm and replace the oring in my current one. ill still drive it and tune it if it doesnt matter that much the condition of the screw

 

[Zanaqqq]

replace the o-ring?

Okay so it’s back to being a piece of shit again. Once it warmed up after driving it, it started surging again and switching between open and closed loop while surging. And it starts up and instantly goes to 3k rpm and drops down and starts surging. Driving it feels like garage to. I have not changed anything since last night when it actually ran good

 

[We're on Boost]

My new one comes tomorrow hopefully.

The new ISC that was. Did you install that yet?

Also, your ISCPosition numbers have always been strange. In the last log (Feb 28-10) at the end of the log where everything has been warm for a while, the ISCPosition is mostly 44 while it is idling at 200-300 rpm higher than your target idle. The ISCPosition there should have been 0 or close to 0, which would be the ecu trying to bring your idle speed down to target. So that is strange and that could mean something wrong with your ecu. Your ecu does know that it's supposed to be idling there because "IdleSw" is 1 and "IdleSwPin" is 1. So it should be giving you more sensible ISCPosition numbers than what we see.

Your FIAV - not sure that is out of the picture entirely yet.

Your ignition timing. It's "normal" as in stock, but with a target idle of 900 it's usually better to reduce the timing in Direct Access in the top row of TimingMaxOct. Not all the way across, just up to maybe 2000 rpm. That's because high timing numbers there exaggerate the effect of anything else that is increasing your idle speed.
So you could change the four cells where I put bold numbers here below. ECMtuning has a wiki page that suggests something like this too.
The timing is not actually the problem, it is just something you can do to help a little. You could even take the low timing up to 3000 rpm if you want to, in this first row which is load factor 0.3.

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[We're on Boost]

I'm going to be gone for most of the rest of the day, but we might be heading for wanting good accurate pictures of your ecu circuit board.
So it would be a good thing for you to read through this thread from 2023 where we got the OP to take some good pics of his ecu, and we got him to test his ISC, and we got a good resolution, I think.

I'd suggest start reading with post #37 (on page 2) which is where we started with his ISC test. Got video for that.
Then down in post #46 he showed us good pics of his circuit board.
And the diagnosis came right after that.
It's a good thread all the way through with lots of good info.

 

[We're on Boost]

Once it warmed up after driving it, it started surging again and switching between open and closed loop while surging.

Check your log for during this time - look to make sure IdleSw was 1.
You are simulating Idle switch with TPS. When you do that, your RawThrotPos logged value needs to be 34 or less in order to get IdleSw of 1.
Also, since your IdleSwPin seems to be working ok, you wouldn't really need to be simulating the Idle Switch. Simulating should be ok though, if your TPS is consistently good.

 

[Zanaqqq]

The new ISC that was. Did you install that yet?

Also, your ISCPosition numbers have always been strange. In the last log (Feb 28-10) at the end of the log where everything has been warm for a while, the ISCPosition is mostly 44 while it is idling at 200-300 rpm higher than your target idle. The ISCPosition there should have been 0 or close to 0, which would be the ecu trying to bring your idle speed down to target. So that is strange and that could mean something wrong with your ecu. Your ecu does know that it's supposed to be idling there because "IdleSw" is 1 and "IdleSwPin" is 1. So it should be giving you more sensible ISCPosition numbers than what we see.

Your FIAV - not sure that is out of the picture entirely yet.

Your ignition timing. It's "normal" as in stock, but with a target idle of 900 it's usually better to reduce the timing in Direct Access in the top row of TimingMaxOct. Not all the way across, just up to maybe 2000 rpm. That's because high timing numbers there exaggerate the effect of anything else that is increasing your idle speed.
So you could change the four cells where I put bold numbers here below. ECMtuning has a wiki page that suggests something like this too.
The timing is not actually the problem, it is just something you can do to help a little. You could even take the low timing up to 3000 rpm if you want to, in this first row which is load factor 0.3.

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I did install the new one yes. I’ve uploaded 2 pictures and a video of my ecu below.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr1FklhpSjc

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[We're on Boost]

I’ve uploaded 2 pictures and a video of my ecu below

Ok thanks for uploading the pic and video of the ecu.
I'm lousy at these visual inspections of the ecu, so we'll have to get 1 or 2 of the guys looking at it who are good at it.

It would be good to know how recently this ecu was in the hands of ECMtuning and what they had to say about it. Was that all done a long time ago by the previous owner?

Also, the new ISC - which logs above were made with the new ISC?
Can you show us whatever info or pictures you have of the new ISC and any brand and model number information you have about it. I don't mean the original Mitsubishi part number, I mean it must be an aftermarket part so there should be some aftermarket brand name and their model number. I've never ordered anything from that carpart place you mentioned so I don't know how they do it. Maybe they don't tell you anything so it's some mystery part, but hopefully it's not like that.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Ok thanks for uploading the pic and video of the ecu.
I'm lousy at these visual inspections of the ecu, so we'll have to get 1 or 2 of the guys looking at it who are good at it.

It would be good to know how recently this ecu was in the hands of ECMtuning and what they had to say about it. Was that all done a long time ago by the previous owner?

Also, the new ISC - which logs above were made with the new ISC?
Can you show us whatever info or pictures you have of the new ISC and any brand and model number information you have about it. I don't mean the original Mitsubishi part number, I mean it must be an aftermarket part so there should be some aftermarket brand name and their model number. I've never ordered anything from that carpart place you mentioned so I don't know how they do it. Maybe they don't tell you anything so it's some mystery part, but hopefully it's not like that.

All work was done by previous owner. And the new isc was used since Friday. And I uploaded a pic of the isc I bought

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[Zanaqqq]

Ok thanks for uploading the pic and video of the ecu.
I'm lousy at these visual inspections of the ecu, so we'll have to get 1 or 2 of the guys looking at it who are good at it.

It would be good to know how recently this ecu was in the hands of ECMtuning and what they had to say about it. Was that all done a long time ago by the previous owner?

Also, the new ISC - which logs above were made with the new ISC?
Can you show us whatever info or pictures you have of the new ISC and any brand and model number information you have about it. I don't mean the original Mitsubishi part number, I mean it must be an aftermarket part so there should be some aftermarket brand name and their model number. I've never ordered anything from that carpart place you mentioned so I don't know how they do it. Maybe they don't tell you anything so it's some mystery part, but hopefully it's not like that.

From what I’m reading in different forums not many people run this ecu. I’m pretty sure if I remember right it’s the non-eprom I think it’s called. Is it worth just ordering an Ecu that is just eprom with ecmlink?

 

[steve]

From what I’m reading in different forums not many people run this ecu. I’m pretty sure if I remember right it’s the non-eprom I think it’s called. Is it worth just ordering an Ecu that is just eprom with ecmlink?

It's a 97 non-EPROM ECU that has been converted by ECMTuning to add a socket so it can run ECMLink. You'll see the red ECMLink circuit board that has the software and extra hardware and the brown board is the conversion board with the processor relocated to it. The advantage to this conversion is it works directly with the 97+ CAS.

I don't see any visual issues but only the worst issue are visible.