ECMlink ECMLink not reading things I’m logging

[Zanaqqq]

Okay so last night all my values were reading and my car was running okay. Now half my values I log don’t read anymore and car is running bad. I’ve uploaded a picture of a log where the car was running. I’m running speed density on a GM IAT with AEM wideband

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[Zanaqqq]

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you do a boost leak test? The trims adjust automatically trying to reach 14.7 afr using the front o2 feedback.

I did do a leak test and it only leaked from the one hose that plugs into throttle bottle from my bov. I can do another one tomorrow just to double check. And I get a full aem x series kit so my front o2 is replaced with the one aem sent with the kit. The gauge is wired correctly aswell. Could it be anything with the narrowband stimulation? Or the set volts and lambda? I set the front o2 to linear wideband in the ecu inputs.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you do a boost leak test? The trims adjust automatically trying to reach 14.7 afr using the front o2 feedback.

Could it be my fiav? I have not done anything to cooling system when I put it all back together. I just added coolant.

 

[Justin DuBois]

upload log file, I can look at more stuff

 

[Zanaqqq]

upload log file, I can look at more stuff

Alright gimme like 10-15 min and I’ll have it uploaded

 

[Justin DuBois]

Could it be my fiav? I have not done anything to cooling system when I put it all back together. I just added coolant.

Yes - an air pocket in the cooling lines to the fiav would cause surge. Happened to me a few months ago - top off and bleed the air out of the cooling system.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Yes - an air pocket in the cooling lines to the fiav would cause surge. Happened to me a few months ago - top off and bleed the air out of the cooling system.

I’ll do that, how do I bleed it on this motor? Also getting log rn

 

[Zanaqqq]

Yes - an air pocket in the cooling lines to the fiav would cause surge. Happened to me a few months ago - top off and bleed the air out of the cooling system.

theres the log

 

[Justin DuBois]

I’ll do that, how do I bleed it on this motor? Also getting log rn

Cold - open the radiator cap and fill. wait a little and fill more. eventually it stops taking more, then close the cap - start engine - 10-15 sec, stop the engine and wait - still cold, crack the cap and fill again. repeat as necessary.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Cold - open the radiator cap and fill. wait a little and fill more. eventually it stops taking more, then close the cap - start engine - 10-15 sec, stop the engine and wait - still cold, crack the cap and fill again. repeat as necessary.

Alright I’ll do that. I uploaded log. Let me know what you think

 

[Justin DuBois]

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Also - regards lean/rich - Fix the surge first - Here is some reading from the help on Narrow Band Sim switch point:

• • Wideband switch point
    Wideband switch point defines the wideband sensor's output voltage around which the ECU will cycle the air/fuel mixture during closed-loop fuel control. Normally this will be the voltage that the wideband sensor uses to represent a stoichiometric mixture (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio for gasoline).
• 
  To determine the appropriate switch point for normal operation, look at the wideband unit's documantation to find the wideband unit's output voltage that represents a 14.7:1 gasoline air/fuel ratio (lambda = 1.0). Otherwise, log the wideband unit's output as a raw value (volts) while operating the engine with a true narrowband sensor installed and narrowband simulation disabled, then take an average of the voltage readings while the engine is operating in normal closed-loop mode (a constantly cycling FrontO2 voltage reading).
  
  You can also refer to our online wiki page which has a collection of suggested starting points for various WB kits.
  
  http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3narrowbandsim

 

[Zanaqqq]

Also - regards lean/rich - Fix the surge first - Here is some reading from the help on Narrow Band Sim switch point:

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3narrowbandsim

Alright I’ll look into that link. My car is on e85. Also thanks for the detailed response

That screenshot I uploaded is my wideband volt tables. My current switch point is at 3.10 volts rn. That should be right

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I bled the coolant, I checked that one box, and my switch point is correct. It’s still surging and doing the same thing

Just did another boost leak test I have no leaks, so no leaks, coolants bled, switch point is correct, I don’t know wheat else to look at. Maybe a bad FIAV?

I took my throttle body apart and everything was good and closed all the way. The one things I’ve noticed is the charge pipe connected to the cold side of the turbo is leaking a tiny bit. Don’t know if that what be doing this.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Idle surge is too much air bypassing the throttle body. A charge pipe leak would not do this.

If there are no boost leaks, then maybe something is pulling air into the manifold when under vacuum - Something between and including the TB and the intake valves.

If a Bad FIAV (perhaps its stuck open even with coolant heating the valve) you can test the theory by removing the freeze plug on the end of the FIAV body, and manually reduce the FIAV range of operation by screwing in the valve until it is completely closed. - Look this up for details.

For sure any hissing you heard from the hose going to the BOV during a boost leak test should be evealuated. Cap off the hose until the leak stops. You don't need a BOV for idle testing.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Idle surge is too much air bypassing the throttle body. A charge pipe leak would not do this.

If there are no boost leaks, then maybe something is pulling air into the manifold when under vacuum - Something between and including the TB and the intake valves.

If a Bad FIAV (perhaps its stuck open even with coolant heating the valve) you can test the theory by removing the freeze plug on the end of the FIAV body, and manually reduce the FIAV range of operation by screwing in the valve until it is completely closed. - Look this up for details.

For sure any hissing you heard from the hose going to the BOV during a boost leak test should be evealuated. Cap off the hose until the leak stops. You don't need a BOV for idle testing.

I think my fiav may have been deleted. I’m not entirely sure. The coolant hose to at would normally connect to the throttle body area is capped off and when I took that cap off and idle has no difference. When driving the car the afr and everything is okay which I find weird.

I ordered a new idle air control valve that will be here tomorrow so I’ll see if that makes any difference

 

[Justin DuBois]

I think my fiav may have been deleted. I’m not entirely sure. The coolant hose to at would normally connect to the throttle body area is capped off and when I took that cap off and idle has no difference. When driving the car the afr and everything is okay which I find weird.

I ordered a new idle air control valve that will be here tomorrow so I’ll see if that makes any difference

Take a picture of the engine bay, and the TB parts you are referring to. If the FIAV is not plummed to cooling hoses - it has no hope of working.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Take a picture of the engine bay, and the TB parts you are referring to. If the FIAV is not plummed to cooling hoses - it has no hope of working.

I’ll do that at like 12-12:30

 

[Zanaqqq]

My throttle body ground is missing, could that be any possibly that’s the issue?

 

[Justin DuBois]

My throttle body ground is missing, could that be any possibly that’s the issue?

The TB ground is for the 1G style idle switch that is part of the 1G TB close position stop. This is not usually used on a 2G, because the 4 wire 2G TPS sensor has a close switch built into it. It is not the source of your surge problem.

A badly set 1G CAS will not help you here. Have you tried the diagnostic feature in ECM Link to hold 5 deg of timing?

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Start the engine - and then enable this to see if it calms itself down long enough to use a timing light on the crank to set the CAS position. You adjust the CAS until the crank pulley mark lines up with the 5 deg BTDC mark on the timing cover.

 

[Zanaqqq]

The TB ground is for the 1G style idle switch that is part of the 1G TB close position stop. This is not usually used on a 2G, because the 4 wire 2G TPS sensor has a close switch built into it. It is not the source of your surge problem.

A badly set 1G CAS will not help you here. Have you tried the diagnostic feature in ECM Link to hold 5 deg of timing?

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Start the engine - and then enable this to see if it calms itself down long enough to use a timing light on the crank to set the CAS position. You adjust the CAS until the crank pulley mark lines up with the 5 deg BTDC mark on the timing cover.

I might have a 1g. My idle air control is a 2 bolt instead of. 3 like the 2g. And I’ll try that when I get home

 

[Justin DuBois]

I might have a 1g. My idle air control is a 2 bolt instead of. 3 like the 2g. And I’ll try that when I get home

1G and 2G turbo IAC are two bolt sensors. same part

 

[Zanaqqq]

1G and 2G turbo IAC are two bolt sensors. same part

Shit I didn’t know that. Other one I ordered was 3 and said 96-99 so I just assumed they were different. My new one comes tomorrow hopefully. I’ll try and lock the timing and set base timing in a hour hopefully. Would timing fix alone fix the surge?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Shit I didn’t know that. Other one I ordered was 3 and said 96-99 so I just assumed they were different. My new one comes tomorrow hopefully. I’ll try and lock the timing and set base timing in a hour hopefully. Would timing fix alone fix the surge?

depends how big the vac leak is.

 

[Zanaqqq]

depends how big the vac leak is.

OK so I did the grounding to the throttlebody anyway and the car didn’t surge anymore. It’s actually like idling but it’s idling super high ant about 2200 RPM. The AFR reads, but the AFR reading is different than the AFR ratio. Without timing lock the fuel trims both read about -11 to -14% and then when I lock the timing at 5° a dead idle around 1000 or 1100 and the fuel trims are reading + 11% to 14%. I didn’t have enough time to set base timing before I had to go back to work, but what do you think of just that?

 

[pauleyman]

Shit I didn’t know that. Other one I ordered was 3 and said 96-99 so I just assumed they were different. My new one comes tomorrow hopefully. I’ll try and lock the timing and set base timing in a hour hopefully. Would timing fix alone fix the surge?

The 3 bolts are the cover, not the mount.

 

[Justin DuBois]

OK so I did the grounding to the throttlebody anyway and the car didn’t surge anymore. It’s actually like idling but it’s idling super high ant about 2200 RPM. The AFR reads, but the AFR reading is different than the AFR ratio. Without timing lock the fuel trims both read about -11 to -14% and then when I lock the timing at 5° a dead idle around 1000 or 1100 and the fuel trims are reading + 11% to 14%. I didn’t have enough time to set base timing before I had to go back to work, but what do you think of just that?

Not what I expected - but grounding the TB is a good idea anyway. First set the CAS position with the timing light.

 

[Zanaqqq]

Not what I expected - but grounding the TB is a good idea anyway. First set the CAS position with the timing light.

Me neither, I saw on some other guys post who had the same kinda issue did that and it fixed it. I’ll set base timing when I get back. How can I get fuel trims dialed? Just by doing caption and right clicking and clicking those buttons to suggest the tables etc