1G E-brake Light Newb Question

[SouthIndy_Talon]

So I finally got my 90 Talon out for the first time this year. I am finding the the e-brake light is staying on no matter if the brake is engaged or not. Are there any quick thing to check so that I can get the light to go off?

90 Talon FWD if that matters.

Thanks in advance!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Check your fluid level in the reservoir. Low level of fluid will trigger the light.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

Check your fluid level in the reservoir. Low level of fluid will trigger the light.

Oh Bingo!… it does look a little low. What is the recommended brake fluid?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Original was DOT 3 but DOT 4 is okay to use.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

Looks like my master cylinder(or the booster?) is leaking. Anyone know if OEM replacements are available anywhere or what would be recommended?

 

[AWD-Tony]

I’ve been using aftermarket brake master, no issues. Take a long zip tie and get it in the brake booster vacuum port to see if there’s fluid in there. You have to bend the zip tie to get the angle. You’ll know what I mean. Use it as a dip stick to see how much fluid is in the booster. I had a good amount so removed it and cleaned it out with brake fluid.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

I’ve been using aftermarket brake master, no issues. Take a long zip tie and get it in the brake booster vacuum port to see if there’s fluid in there. You have to bend the zip tie to get the angle. You’ll know what I mean. Use it as a dip stick to see how much fluid is in the booster. I had a good amount so removed it and cleaned it out with brake fluid.

Just a generic aftermarket one?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Just a generic aftermarket one?

Yes

 

[Mech Addict]

I did the same. There is a measurement/ adjustment with the booster when the mc is out. It is described in the factory service manual. I also ordered a non-oem mc from local parts store. Works fine. Check you pedal assembly/ clevis for wear, and adjust it as the last step with new mc. I highly recommend you get a line wrench for brake line fittings.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

It’s not common for there to be an issue with the booster is there? It’s most likely just the master cylinder? Brakes felt fine, it was just the light on the dash that prompted me to look. It looks wet right where the master cylinder and booster mate. Just trying to have everything that is likely needed before diving into taking it apart.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I wasn’t saying the booster is bad, just to check if brake fluid made its way into the booster as it will deteriorate rubber that’s not rated for it. Boosters “usually” don’t go bad as it’s a very simple design, big rubber diaphragm inside, but then again it’s 30 years old so I’d make sure to get rid of any brake fluid if any is in there. A good place to check for other brake fluid leak is the line in rear.

 

[Mech Addict]

You will have to disconnect the hoses to the reservoir and reconnect to the new mc. If those hoses look sad, or clamps messed up, nows the best time. You need special rubber hose material and right i.d.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

Thanks for all the help and input everyone! Got a new master cylinder on order and will be trying to tackle this hopefully over the weekend

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

The only time I had a booster go "bad" was when I didn't have a check valve in the booster line and it saw 40 lbs of pressure that it's not suppose to see. I put a hole in the diaphragm. Now I run and extra check valve just to be safe.

 

[SouthIndy_Talon]

Good to know. I’m planning on hopefully only having to replace the master at this point. Finally was able to get it out last weekend for the first time this year just to have to put it up again until this gets sorted. Damn the luck

 

[getusum]

The only time I had a booster go "bad" was when I didn't have a check valve in the booster line and it saw 40 lbs of pressure that it's not suppose to see. I put a hole in the diaphragm. Now I run and extra check valve just to be safe.

Where did you find the right size check valve?
I got some on Amazon but the od is small

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

See HERE. I would rather buy on Amazon than Ebay but it's getting harder to decide if either are good choices.
In this ad you can take your choice of size. Some of us have used plastic check valves but the heat under the hood makes them fail (well, for me at least) so this is the style that some use. Any check valve of a close ID size will work, metal ones being preferred. Put a hose clamp on each end. I run one in my PC system too.