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Brake Light stays on..

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'97boostinGST

10+ Year Contributor
1,104
2
Mar 1, 2010
Oxnard, California
Recently the brake light or e-brake light constantly stays on and sometimes goes away and then comes back despite the e-brake being off. It doesnt feel like the e-brake is on at all. Is there something thats making contact and making it stay on or something?
 
I had this problem. It occurred after my car was towed with the sunroof open and it rained into my car very heavily.

I tried a few things but didn't manage to fix it. Eventually, I just took out the brake light switch; I don't think that did it, and I had to remove the dash light to get the light out.

Everything was fine for about 10 years. Recently I left my e-brake on for 80 miles though, which sucks. The handling was pretty dangerous on the highway in the rain and I knew something was up, but I kept trying to convince myself it was bad traction from the rain.

I'm going to try to fix it again.

Only thing I can suggest off-hand is try a new ebrake switch. It's mounted to the ebrake.

Oh, you know what? If there are exposed contacts, try sanding down the contacts... it may need a ground to close the loop and turn off the light. I've seen a lot of these cars with tons of rust there under the brake. Maybe that will fix it. It's one of the only things that really makes sense when you consider water damage.

Actually, if the whole part is a ground, you may need to get all the rust off that whole metal plate - at least enough so that the plate is in contact with the rest of the body.

When my shipment of rust remover "POR-15" comes in the mail in a few days, I'll take some pictures of the problem so you can see what I'm talking about (in case you don't understand).
 
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Mine used to stay on all the time untill one day it snowed before I could park it for the winter and I flipped a shitty in the middle of the road using the ebrake to spin around and it went out. Now it only comes on when I pull the ebrake on. Maybe take it down a gravel road and give it a yank LOL, or get under the car and give it a good blast of wd40 as its probably rusted.
 
Typically this is because your brake fluid is low. The float sensor in the brake fluid reservoir is tied to the same brake light that the parking brake is. Either will keep it lit. The question is why is your fluid low. This will be because 1) you have a fluid leak (less likely) or 2) your pads are low, causing your brake caliper pistons to extend more in steady state, causing more fluid to fill your calipers, leading to less fluid in your reservoir to the point of tripping the float sensor (more likely).
 
Thank you for the information. But there must be other reasons as well. I've never known my brake fluid to be low.

Can it detect worn brake pads? Damaged calipers? Maladjusted parking brake? Worn e. brake pads? What about dirty or damaged hydraulic components?

Even when I got new brakes and rotors, I still had the light on. That's what made me think it was a wiring problem, AKA a ground problem due to rust. Pics later. It's really bad.

I just want all new brake system. New/better everything.
 
The only way the brake light would show a problem with the brakes is like previously stated. When the pads are low the pistons are pushed further out of the calipers causing more brake fluid to fill the void. There is no other way. So if you brake fluid is topped off and the float is not stuck there is probably an electrical issue.
 
Typically this is because your brake fluid is low. The float sensor in the brake fluid reservoir is tied to the same brake light that the parking brake is. Either will keep it lit. The question is why is your fluid low. This will be because 1) you have a fluid leak (less likely) or 2) your pads are low, causing your brake caliper pistons to extend more in steady state, causing more fluid to fill your calipers, leading to less fluid in your reservoir to the point of tripping the float sensor (more likely).

^^^ This. Go to your brake booster, where the master cylinder is bolted to it. Look under the flange of the master cylinder for brake fluid leaking out. Ive rarely seen a DSM, 1G or 2G, that didnt leak brake fluid here. It is caused by worn seals in the master cylinder. If your fluid isnt low, and youre not leaking fluid where I described, then TSiAWD666 is absolutely correct about your worn pads causing fluid level to drop in the reservoir, thereby triggering the warning light. In either case, this is a serious issue and you shouldnt drive the car until you fix this :ohdamn:
 
Shit. See I thought the light was only for the e-brake. So disabling the light was a terrible idea. Lol. I've never checked nor had the brake hydraulics checked. I got new rotors and pads in like 2006 and I've had some kind of rear brake dragging issue that I thought would go away but didn't. It could be an e-brake pad dragging or anything mentioned.

I honestly always thought he didn't install them 100% correctly. Braking performance is even, however.

So I think it's ebrake. But he (shop who did my brakes) put the rotor on at the wrong direction so that I cannot access the adjuster hole. (if you even know about that)

if your brake fluid is topped off and the float is not stuck
Where is the float?

Also, I noticed I have a small crack in my brake fluid cap on the side, but it's been like that before then. It's so small I don't think it's compromised but nevertheless I bought another cap a few weeks ago. I'm going to put that on and investigate a bit.

Thanks. PS sorry for threadjack
 
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Thanks for all the Info.
I live in Cali and the car has been a SoCal resident all it's life so we can rule out the rust issue as the car is 100% rust free. But I'll check for any funky looking problems down there.
Where exactly are the e-brake pads?? I'm probably making my self sound like a noob, but I replaced the rear brake pads about 11k miles ago. Are these the e-brake pads? I've never heard of such thing.
Again, I'll check the reservoir see how that's going..I'll check back with info.
 
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Where exactly are the e-brake pads??
They are inside the rotor, like this:

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(you can see the ebrake adjuster towards the right - the cylinder with teeth)

How to replace emergency brake shoes - Lx Forums | Dodge Charger Challenger Magnum | SRT8 | Chrysler 300 Forum

(different car, same concept)


PS see the small holes nearest the center of the rotor?

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That's to adjust the ebrake. You can use a flathead to spin it, but make sure the ebrake is off when you do it. Then you use the nut attached to the actual ebrake lever to fine tune it.

Anyway, that's what I meant when I said he put the rotors on at the wrong direction and I cannot access the adjuster.

Guess I'll have to learn to fix brakes too. If you want it done right...
 
The e-brake pads are like brake shoes for drum brakes. they are inside your rear rotors. Did you ever realize the rear rotor looks big like a drum in the middle.

Ah, that's why.
Thanks!
Hopefully it's the low fluid :(
Really don't feel like taking apart the rear rotors.
 
All the above are great ideas, but it could be much simpler. I had the same problem with my car. After throwing a bunch of time and money at it to fix the problem the light was still on. Turns out the little metal tab on the parking brake handle that activates the switch under it was bent. You can simple pull your cup holder out to check it and bend it back if it is bent. It mat not be your problem but it is something easy and quick to check.
 
All the above are great ideas, but it could be much simpler. I had the same problem with my car. After throwing a bunch of time and money at it to fix the problem the light was still on. Turns out the little metal tab on the parking brake handle that activates the switch under it was bent. You can simple pull your cup holder out to check it and bend it back if it is bent. It mat not be your problem but it is something easy and quick to check.

Or this too, I took off my console and when I tried putting it back it wouldn't sit flush.
Thanks for the tip.

Nasty Dream: Totally did not see your post their.
That's some great info!
Btw, are the AWD and FWD rear rotors/drums the same? Can I get some AWD ones and install with no problem?
 
Check the connection on the E-Brake , make sure its not binding or a loose connection.
 
Welp, I first checked the reservoir and that checked out ok, I checked the master for leaks and it was bone dried...so then I checked the e-brake sensor that turns the light off and on I wiggled it around and ever since then the light has stayed off..I'm assuming that's all it needed.
 
Hey guys, new here.
I have had my eclipse for about 5 years, and about a year and a half ago my brake light started turning on and off ever 300 or 400 miles. It was annoying, but not nearly as annoying as it is now. for about the last year the brake light has been solid on, except for a short 100 mi. period.

I have taken apart my center console and inspected the switch for the e-brake, and it appears to be in good shape, my fluid level is good, and not leaking. I changed my front brake pads last summer, and they are still good.

Is there anything else, mechanically speaking that could cause it? Its got close to 190,000mi on it, and I dont think the drum has ever been taken apart. I'd imagine there is a lot of brake dust and rust in there. could that have any effect on it? Or is the final solution an electrical one?

I read through the other posts in this thread, and im sorry if I ask something thats already been suggested.
 
Hey guys, new here.
I have had my eclipse for about 5 years, and about a year and a half ago my brake light started turning on and off ever 300 or 400 miles. It was annoying, but not nearly as annoying as it is now. for about the last year the brake light has been solid on, except for a short 100 mi. period.

I have taken apart my center console and inspected the switch for the e-brake, and it appears to be in good shape, my fluid level is good, and not leaking. I changed my front brake pads last summer, and they are still good.

Is there anything else, mechanically speaking that could cause it? Its got close to 190,000mi on it, and I dont think the drum has ever been taken apart. I'd imagine there is a lot of brake dust and rust in there. could that have any effect on it? Or is the final solution an electrical one?

I read through the other posts in this thread, and im sorry if I ask something thats already been suggested.

There are only 3 things that will set the light off. The e brake switch which is located in the handle assembly in the center console, low brake fluid, or a bad/shorted fluid level sensor in the master reservoir.
 
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