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Dsmlink V3

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I will be back on Dec. 20th from CA. I think I am off the week of Christmas so I will be giving you a call. This time, I am buying lunch. I have a lot of per diem burning a hole in my pocket!
In that case, I know a much better joint we can hit next time.... LOL

Thomas Dorris
 
you allowed current v2 dsmlink owners to get a copy of the chip if we had more than one car. i was in the process of doing that, i still needed to socket it, you said it was going to be $30 for the copy of my chip and another $30 to socket the cpu, i got all teh details on your email, but v3 happens to be coming up..

can i just pay the $175 upgrade along with socket fee? obviously i have my account info and cable to show proof of my purchase.

or would you offer the same for v3 offering extra chip for owners with 2 cars.

is the new cable backward compatible, say i did just get my extra v2 for my other car, but upgrade the main to v3, ill obviously have the new cable right, but the other car will still be v2, so will the new cable work..
 
I like the site, Tom. It's fast, easy to navigate, and the explanations in the different sections are detailed and well written.
 
can i just pay the $175 upgrade along with socket fee?
Yeah, given my understanding of your description of the situation, it sounds like that would be fine. But please contact me in e-mail to arrange all this. I can't provide support via forums for stuff like this. I need to have a clear e-mail trail I can refer back to when ECU packages show up or someone has a question about an order later.

[email protected]

would you offer the same for v3 offering extra chip for owners with 2 cars.
That we can not do. V3 is like the V2 1G package in that the device itself is the package (not just the cable). Selling a new V3 device is a new package.

is the new cable backward compatible
The 2G V3 cable is not at all compatible with the 2G V2 chip. We want to offer cheap replacement cables to people that lose theirs and the only way to do that is to remove the "special" aspect of the cables themselves.

Thomas Dorris
 
In that case, I know a much better joint we can hit next time.... LOL

Thomas Dorris

Sounds good to me. I will give you a call on Monday (12.22.08) and we can go out then if you are at the shop. I will probably be upgrading then too since my car will be down for a while. Or I can hold off if you guys are overly busy trying to get others upgraded. I have some time.
 
Is there any benefit to ditching the MAF-T and getting the new cable instead? I don't use the MAF-T for any fuel compensation, only to convert the maf signal. BARO and IAT will still be locked with the cable unless new sensors are wired in correct? I just want to know if I should select "GM maf with MAF-T" when ordering or if I should ditch the MAF-T and get the new cable. Thanks. -John
 
Is there any benefit to ditching the MAF-T and getting the new cable instead?
Honestly, if the car seems to be running fine with the MAFT, then you're probably not going to gain much by running the GM MAF straight to the ECU. The only thing you really gain there is ditching the MAFT box and then having more fine grained control over airflow. But that's a double-edged sword. Having more control means it's easier to get things out of whack sometimes and can be more difficult to get them back in line. But once it's running right, you really have very fine control over airflow, particularly at cruise and idle.

Thomas Dorris
 
Honestly, if the car seems to be running fine with the MAFT, then you're probably not going to gain much by running the GM MAF straight to the ECU. The only thing you really gain there is ditching the MAFT box and then having more fine grained control over airflow. But that's a double-edged sword. Having more control means it's easier to get things out of whack sometimes and can be more difficult to get them back in line. But once it's running right, you really have very fine control over airflow, particularly at cruise and idle.

Thomas Dorris

Tom,

If you are using the MAF Translator, wouldn't you still have access to the fine tuning of the airflow? It would just be assuming you're fine tuning a stock MAF correct?
 
EDIT (more pricing details): 1G non-EPROM to EPROM conversion $75 (if purchased with an ECMLink package). We're not sure we can price the non-EPROM to EPROM conversion reasonably outside a package purchase. If we did offer that service separate from a package purchase, it'd probably have to run at least $125. Those boards are not cheap to make and it takes a good bit of manual labor to rework the ECU's PCB.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.

What if you offered only the board with DIY instructions how to do the conversion?
 
If you are using the MAF Translator, wouldn't you still have access to the fine tuning of the airflow? It would just be assuming you're fine tuning a stock MAF correct?
No, that's not correct. When you run a GM MAF straight to the ECU, you work in terms of GM MAF frequencies, NOT stock frequencies. So instead of idling at 50hz like most people are used to, you'll be idling at, say, 500hz.

So, with a Mitsubishi MAF or a GM MAFT you would normally use the 50hz slider to adjust idle airflow. With a GM MAF straight to the ECU, you would use the 500hz. That seems trivial until you consider the next and previous adjustment points provided in ECMLink of 600hz and 400hz... Those are, again, in GM MAF frequencies. They correspond to roughly 70hz and 30hz. So, effectively you have adjustment points at 30, 50, and 70hz if you talk in terms of GM MAFT or Mitsubishi MAF number...

That fine-grained adjustment is both good and bad.

Thomas Dorris
 
What if you offered only the board with DIY instructions how to do the conversion?

I think that could be dumb or smart.

Smart because, I could see a lot of people messing up their ecu and then needing to send it in to Tom for repair.

Dumb is obvious.

I wouldn't do it if I was him.
 
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