ECMlink DSMLink logs(caution: slow child tuning)

[LandoAWD]

I'll have to read that link a few times...it certainly didn't sink in this time.

Lower the 2400 10%...got it. Leave the other sliders?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Leave the other sliders?

You can either adjust them based off the 2400hz adjustment or you can do it the way I do when a map sensor isn't used. I lower the boost so the mafraw in the 5,000-6,000 range reads what the next lowest(2000hz) airflow slider is. Then adjust accordingly. This way is more accurate but takes more time as you can imagine. You would normally start off with wastegate spring pressure and raise a little as you go but this way will work.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I'm a little worried about your timing table being all crazy and your fuel table not being calibrated at all . At 21 psi and pump, should see virtually no knock. IMO I would zero out those timing sliders and have a go at it. Also, try changing AEMWBgaugeR1 to dynojetWB (did we discuss this already? ). I seem to have the most accurate AEMWB input through dynojetWB. Those stupid things are infamous for not reporting correctly in dsmlink. Since you have a MAF-T, have you calibrated it yet ?

 

[1992awdlaser]

His timing table is pretty smooth Tom. You want to look at the 1g estimates.

 

[LandoAWD]

I'll back the boost off and try to snag another log. Lotsa people coming into town this weekend.

Should I bother with the fuel table? Ramp it down from high 14s to low 11s? Don't touch it till I log again? Car is certainly running fat...

 

[1992awdlaser]

You can lean it out a little right now if you want. Take out an even amount of fuel across the rpm range. The air/fuel ratio will change once the airflow sliders are calibrated so don't make a big change.

 

[LandoAWD]

Right at 13.5-14lbs of boost. A/F slider tweak.

Edit: Yes, I let out to avoid love tapping a slower vehicle merging.

 

[turbosax2]

Boostest is a lot better now but you can still get it closer. I would move the 2000 and 2400 sliders down to about -16.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Based on the last log I would bring the 2000hz slider down 2% more and the 2400hz slider down a couple more percent. I wander why it's getting more knock in that log than in the one before it.

 

[LandoAWD]

Could be shitty gas, I suppose. Stations around here are low and I had to use "Eagles" 93 octane this morning. Plugs are relatively new...think the gap is too big at .28 on BR8ES?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, .28 is huge! I'm assuming (and hoping) you meant to say .028.

Just curious as to why you're running 8's. I would suggest running 6's or possibly 7's since you're running relatively lower boost. Usually it's recommended for stock to 18 psi to use 6's and then above that to use 7's. And then once you start having problems with the 7's, a few people throw in 8's.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Yes, .28 is huge! I'm assuming (and hoping) you meant to say .028.

Just curious as to why you're running 8's. I would suggest running 6's or possibly 7's since you're running relatively lower boost. Usually it's recommended for stock to 18 psi to use 6's and then above that to use 7's. And then once you start having problems with the 7's, a few people throw in 8's.

I'm sure he meant .028. I too would move to a BPR7ES plug for the amount of boost the car is seeing. Heck, I don't think I'd switch to 8's until 28+psi was being seen.

Pat, or anyone, can someone explain to me why the 6k timing slider is being reduced so much? I don't know if my tuning methodology is that drastically different from anyone else's out there, but I never have a timing table that rollercoaster's so much like that? I'd definitely be interested in knowing why someone would do that.

 

[turbosax2]

The 6k slider looks ok to me. My only rule for timing is I keep sliders within 3* of each other. In the latest log I would move the 5k slider down 2* and drop the last 4 sliders down so you don't get a sudden timing increase in the upper rpm's. Tom, keep in mind this is for a 1g, so the timing is a lot more aggressive from the factory than 2g's.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Pat, or anyone, can someone explain to me why the 6k timing slider is being reduced so much? I don't know if my tuning methodology is that drastically different from anyone else's out there, but I never have a timing table that rollercoaster's so much like that? I'd definitely be interested in knowing why someone would do that.

Check the box at the bottom of the timing slider box that says "Show 1G estimates." Then look at the number at the bottom of the box. These are the timing numbers the ecu will target at that specific rpm. You can tell from these that the actual timing curve is pretty smooth and gradual. At 6,000 with it retarded 7* it's still targeting 18* which is probably close to the same if not more than your ecu is targeting at that rpm. This is because of the very aggressive 1G timing curve. If you zero the table out you will see that the stock value at 6,000 rpm is 25*. As you know that is way too much timing for an upgraded car.

Basically, the position of the sliders mean nothing. It is the estimates that you want to go by.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

wow, I just compared it to one of my old logs and that's a hell of a difference. I guess you can imagine the number of 1G's I've ever tuned versus 2g's

 

[LandoAWD]

Sorry, y'all... .028

My bad.

Now that all my company has left, hopefully I can get a few pulls in soon with the adjustments above.

 

[LandoAWD]

Vacation all done, back to tuning in some nice cool weather.

Log from yesterday afternoon...let out at the knock CEL flash.

Right at 15psi.

 

[LandoAWD]

As a slight digression from the general intent of this thread, can one of you let me know how to figure out the volume of air being pushed through? I'm dense.

 

[snowborder714]

Are you looking for a lb/min number? If so, you're flowing around 36 lb/min according to that last log. Just look at your AirFlow value in the log.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Compressor Maps

I will look at the log when I'm on a computer with link.

 

[LandoAWD]

As I said...I'm dense. Had the airglow in grams/sec.

Thanks!

 

[1992awdlaser]

I'm thinking the knock sensor is picking up "activity" from a moving part and not actual knock. I see no reason why the car should be knocking at that timing, boost, and a/f level. Unless there is something off. I think you said you checked the base timing? What about for exhaust leaks before the wideband?

Does the knock go away if you pull timing in that area?

 

[LandoAWD]

Hmmm, didn't think about the possibility of an exhaust leak...I'll check.

I'll also re-log and pull the timing down around the knock.

 

[LandoAWD]

Didn't find any exhaust leaks. May get a DP->O2 gasket anyway and crawl under there later this month.

Pulled a smidge of timing. Log from a freeway entry (stuck behind an Integra for a bit.

Knock still comes on at roughly the same spot. ~16psi. Boostest keeps climbing when it should fall off.

Since I'm running up against what the sliders for 2400hz and above can manage, should I pull a click out of the translator?

 

[1992awdlaser]

I don't think it is real knock. But I am not positive.

The only reason I know that boostest would keep climbing is a boost leak after the maf. There might be other things that can cause it though.

Does your boost leak tester pop off like most? Maybe you have a leak that doesn't happen until you get to a certain psi.