ECMlink DSMLink logs(caution: slow child tuning)

[LandoAWD]

Coming as soon as I can get some flat land in front of me. They don't call it Hillsborough for nothing.

Made the timing changes to see if the knock around 3500 would come back, sure enough the CEL went nuts. Added some fuel, and pulled a degree of timing in that range and it went away.

I'll get that log as soon as I can; believe me, I miss WOT.

 

[LandoAWD]

I know, I know...THIRD gear log. Well, took a small 2nd gear pull while out and about for lunch and noticed some odd things.

1. o2 readings are odd...dead sensor?
2. WB is not working on this laptop...works fine on the other. May need to re-add it.
3. TPS not seeing 100%. Will verify it does, in fact, reach 100% when I head out for the day

That said, anything useful here?

Edit: ~20psi, AFRs dipping below readable on the AEM gauge.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Hey, I can't see the log from this computer, but with your WB issue. Deselect whatever WB you have in there now and then readd it in the table. Reset DSMLink and then you should be able to choose it as a value in F4. I'm not quite sure, but I always have to do this when readding values.

 

[LandoAWD]

Hey, I can't see the log from this computer, but with your WB issue. Deselect whatever WB you have in there now and then readd it in the table. Reset DSMLink and then you should be able to choose it as a value in F4. I'm not quite sure, but I always have to do this when readding values.

Yeah, I didn't notice until I was stepping out of the car with the laptop in one hand and lunch in the other. I'll get it done ASAP.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Your o2 sensor is working fine.
I can see the wideband readings in the log.
The maf needs to be calibrated and/or boost leaks fixed. If there are no boost leaks try bringing the 1600hz slider up 40% and let's see another log.

Edit: Try a smaller value like 20% and then get the new log in third gear.

 

[LandoAWD]

Your o2 sensor is working fine.
I can see the wideband readings in the log.
The maf needs to be calibrated and/or boost leaks fixed. If there are no boost leaks try bringing the 1600hz slider up 40% and let's see another log.

Damn. Something is odd with this laptop, then. The whole run shows as 18.00 on the narrowband and the WB values aren't showing for that log.

NM. I was looking at the A/F. Still can't see the WB. Greyed out reading 9.0

 

[1992awdlaser]

Damn. Something is odd with this laptop, then. The whole run shows as 18.00 on the narrowband and the WB values aren't showing for that log.

The air/fuel estimate shows 18:1 on the whole log on this computer too. I am watching the o2 voltage to say that it is working fine. To get the air/fuel estimate closer, hit F4 click on air/fuel once then click on props. Input your values there. Open your log then hit ctrl+a to see if any more values like the wb show up for you. I edited my last post.

 

[LandoAWD]

Getting running room in 3rd is difficult during the weekday for me, but I had the laptop in the car from a service call and figured "what the heck" as I was coming back to work.

Will do on the slider.

Will do on the updates.

EDIT: Alright, AEM WB shows, but is a bit leaner than indicated on the gauge...think I hd to use R1 on the laptop at home, so I'll make that switch when in the car later.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

yet another screwy AEMWB reading. Try using DynojetWB as the prop value instead, I've found it to be the most accurate out of all of the other AEMWB,AEMWBgauge,AEMWBgaugeR1 readings. Others have had success with PLXWB too.

 

[LandoAWD]

The only one remotely close, and I tried all but PLX when I hopped in the car, was the r1. Still about .2 low, but dang close.

Popped the hood whn I got home and it seems as though my Dodge Garage modded BOV is drawing air through the bypass nipple...don't think it was doing this before. Possible BOV issue here? Thoughts?

 

[1992awdlaser]

The only one remotely close, and I tried all but PLX when I hopped in the car, was the r1. Still about .2 low, but dang close.

Popped the hood whn I got home and it seems as though my Dodge Garage modded BOV is drawing air through the bypass nipple...don't think it was doing this before. Possible BOV issue here? Thoughts?

If you have a blow-thru setup it shouldn't cause any airflow metering problems. The gm-maf will know about the air. Obviously it should be fixed though.

 

[LandoAWD]

Indeed. Noticing a bit of surge as well. I'll either Stop-leak the SOB (from Dejon) or upgrade.

 

[LandoAWD]

Something is definitely off. Went outside and sat and logged...fuel trims are whacky.

No changes to the airflow sliders. Tell me I'm retarded, then tell me why.

 

[1992awdlaser]

It is because of your o2 voltage. Now it is almost acting like it is dead. When it is dead it will be stuck on .02 or .04 volts. Maybe it is going bad. Right now because of it the ecu is seeing lean and trying to add fuel to get the air/fuel better. The o2 voltage should bounce around between a pretty low number and .7x volts at idle and cruise.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Well he told you why, can I tell you you're retarded?

 

[LandoAWD]

A cruise log and idle log attached from this AM.

The car now wants to idle at 1250ish (set at 1k, I think) and will cycle the O2 as long as IT is idling where IT wants to. Mentioned the surge...definite compressor surge when shifting/letting off. I want these things to be related to one problem, but it seems a couple may have cropped up at once.

Oh how I missed these things.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Do youk now what iscposition reads at idle?

 

[LandoAWD]

I'll grab it around lunchtime. I actually went out to go through scottsee's page on idle when I noticed the weirdness with the AFR and such.

 

[LandoAWD]

Startup/initial idle, then a log of how it was after a jog to the Chinese joint.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I think the first thing you need to do is test the isc motor. I am thinking that it is bad. This could be the cause of all your problems.

The reason I think the isc is bad is because you have the higher than desired idle. In order to bring that down with the biss screw it would have to be turned in. But in order to bring the iscposition closer to 30 the biss screw would have to come out. So you can see if you do one thing the other is going to get worse. I just think the isc motor is bad and it won't move like it is supposed to.

 

[LandoAWD]

Interesting. I'll try to get a resistance test done today.

 

[LandoAWD]

ISC tested out ~34ohms for each of the pin pairs. Reset the ECU to try and get it to learn idle. ISC position reading 0 still and had to up the 50hz slider 5% to get the O2 to oscillate.

Retightened couplers around MAF...noticed the RPM wire was still tapped to the CAS and pulled it.

Frustrating.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Try turning the biss screw in to move the iscposition. I skipped the second log before when the car was warmed up. So I was basing my previous statement off of the iscposition of 120 in the first log. Turning the screw in should bring the idle down and the iscposition up. Sorry I skipped the other log.

Make sure the car is warmed up with everything like radio, a/c, etc. turned off.

 

[LandoAWD]

Mod list updated. Spoke with Jon tonight...guess what components are blocked off in the TB?


FIAV and ISC.

Damnit. .

Sooo, back to sorting cruise and WOT, then? I'll get the idle sorted with the BISS, but should I use the Simulate Idle Swithc feature?

BOV issue still present, but as mentioned, shouldn't affect this process.


Again, damnit.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Use the biss to bring your idle closer to your target idle that you have set in dsmlink. Then use the simulate idle switch feature.