doing headgasket what else do i need?

[hypergenesis]

Well this weekend I plan to tackle quite a bit of stuff and I know there's been threads made but I've literally spent 45 mins searching the forums trying to figure out what exactly needs to be changed when doing a head gasket.

Currently I'm going to change

Timing belt
Auto tensioned
All pulleys
BSE
Headgasket
Arp headstuds
T-25 Turbo, mines going out
Walbro 255lph HP
Fuel lab Afpr


Now I'm pretty sure I read that someone sells a gasket kit for most of the stuff I'm taking off the engine and what not but I'm unable to find it. So if someone could lead me in the right direction.

Also when I do the BSE I use rtv grey for the oilpan gasket correct?

Should I buy headstuds as well?
I plan to buy a sanding block to sand the gasket material off the head as well.

Is there anything I'm missing on what I need or any suggestions.

Much appreciated

Armin

 

[BogusSVO]

Ahhhh the more power bug.. gotcha.. well when that bug bites him a diffrent head will be in order, IMHO
OS valves, ported, kiggley springs, kelford or GS cams.. ect

 

[hypergenesis]

Cam seals should come in the gasket set, or you can order them separately. Valve stem seals are like $20 for a set IIRC. For springs, I would personally go with a set of Kiggly beehives and never look back... if funds allow.

Im looking to get this headgasket set from autozone

I was going to ask about the valve seals but it already comes with it just found it.

Would this head set suffice?

Felpro/Head Gasket Set (HS9627PT-3) | 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse 4 Cylinders F 2.0L MFI Turbo DOHC | AutoZone.com

extremepsi will have all the gaskets and seals you need (OEM even), and if you order today, you would probably get them by the weekend pretty easily...especially with some expedited shipping.

Don't forget gaskets and crush washers for the turbo installation. Those usually have to be ordered separately.

Even on another stock turbo? I know the gaskets but I thought crush washers were generally re-usable unless im mistaken? I only plan to put another t-25 on for the time being and buy a VRSF FMIC set to replace the greddy one I have right now. Only reason is so I have the short Route piping, a great fmic, and the jpipe fits right on the FMIC.

I'm pretty sure Paul was running an o-ringed head and/or block with that composite gasket at that power level, and I would almost guarantee you that it was way more than 30psi (probably upwards of 45psi . They are good gaskets, but there's a big difference in a composite HG on a ringed head vs. non-ringed.

Well that makes a lot more sense I was always baffled at how he was pushing that much.

Agreed... but might as well be prepared for the "more power" bug when it hits, if funds and time allow for it now while everything is apart.

I probably will get the dreaded power bug, but keep in mind I am a FWD and with the way my time is Im not sure if I would have the time and means to do a AWD Swap. Im honestly not looking for more than 350whp Unless I decided to make my little FWD a highway warrior then the serious engine rebuild would begin.

Ahhhh the more power bug.. gotcha.. well when that bug bites him a diffrent head will be in order, IMHO
OS valves, ported, kiggley springs, kelford or GS cams.. ect

Your opinion is correct if I would want to start pushing more than what I would with a 16g and supporting mods with some porting I would definetly rebuild the head bit by bit. I was thinking about buying a 6 bolt block and slowly putting funds into it to start building a really well made engine + head like you were saying.

 

[-red97rum-]

I'd go with this kit from the Parts Dinosaur, it's a whole hell of a lot cheaper and still pretty good quality and includes turbo mounting gaskets: 4G63T Full Gasket Set 95-99 $78.00

Use ARP head studs, Extreme Psi has a good price: Extreme PSI: 11mm ARP head studs

Do no sand your head or your block! Take the head to a good machine shop and have them resurface it. Clean the deck of the block with a razor blade, a putty knife and brake cleaner. Clean and chase the threads for the head studs as well.

*Edit: I see you're in California. I'm not sure about the bay area but down near LA I get my stuff from the parts dinosaur the next day. I imagine you would have the stuff by Thursday or Friday at the latest if your ordered it today.

 

[hypergenesis]

I'd go with this kit from the Parts Dinosaur, it's a whole hell of a lot cheaper and still pretty good quality and includes turbo mounting gaskets: 4G63T Full Gasket Set 95-99 $78.00

Use ARP head studs, Extreme Psi has a good price: Extreme PSI: 11mm ARP head studs

Do no sand your head or your block! Take the head to a good machine shop and have them resurface it. Clean the deck of the block with a razor blade, a putty knife and brake cleaner. Clean and chase the threads for the head studs as well.

People said I shouldn't razor blade the deck of the block and to sand it using 80-100 grit paper. I already bought the brake cleaner and what not but im not sure how much it will cost to have the head resurfaced and like I said limited on funds currently

*Edit: I see you're in California. I'm not sure about the bay area but down near LA I get my stuff from the parts dinosaur the next day. I imagine you would have the stuff by Thursday or Friday at the latest if your ordered it today.

Oh wow really? I might give them a call then, also is the kit OEM or a OEM replacement? Autozone is charging 89.99$ for it but its next day delivery to their store.

 

[99gst_racer]

I've always had sucess with cleaning the deck of the block with a razor blade. I'm not sure if it's the best option, but it's always worked well for me. I wouldn't use a razor on aluminum though.

 

[-red97rum-]

People said I shouldn't razor blade the deck of the block and to sand it using 80-100 grit paper. I already bought the brake cleaner and what not but im not sure how much it will cost to have the head resurfaced and like I said limited on funds currently

I've done a full engine rebuild and a few head gaskets since I've been playing around with these cars. I've never had a problem using a razor, just make sure it's on the surface square and flat. Take your time with it and you'll get that deck really clean. Then wipe it down with a lint free cloth and brake cleaner.

DO NOT use 80-100 grit sand paper though unless you feel like pulling/disassembling your engine to have the block's deck resurfaced. I wouldn't use any kind of sand paper period and you'd be crazy to use something as abrasive as 100 grit.

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Oh wow really? I might give them a call then, also is the kit OEM or a OEM replacement? Autozone is charging 89.99$ for it but its next day delivery to their store.

It's OEM replacement. I've been using gaskets and parts from the Dinosaur for a few years now and I've never had a problem. I'm actually using his $60 MLS head gasket and it's a quality piece.

 

[BogusSVO]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

This is the thread he is talking about, and talks about sandpaper

This is the way learned

It is also less hazardous than a slipping razor blade, and no chance of a bad gouge is something slips

 

[Calan]

I thought crush washers were generally re-usable unless im mistaken?

I've reused them in a pinch, but they will usually start to leak. They can only be crushed so far.

 

[-red97rum-]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

This is the thread he is talking about, and talks about sandpaper

This is the way learned

It is also less hazardous than a slipping razor blade, and no chance of a bad gouge is something slips

Gotcha, now that I read through that thread I can understand doing it that way. But even so, 80-100 grit just seems a little too rough to me.. and you're right about not using an MLS with that surface, it'll never seal. I wouldn't use a razor on the head but I've always used one on the block, just need to take your time, pay attention to what you're doing and it will be fine. Either way, OP, do what you're most comfortable with.

 

[ILL122]

I just redid my head and used brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads to clean both of the surfaces. Im using MLS and got the mirror finish I needed. If you take everything off the head yourself a machine shop will charge about $50.00. If you send a complete head to them to breakdown and rebuild then it will be about $150.00.

 

[Calan]

I just redid my head and used brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads to clean both of the surfaces. Im using MLS and got the mirror finish I needed.

You got the head and block to an RA of 35-50, and within .001" flatness with a Scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner?

 

[BogusSVO]

I just redid my head and used brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads to clean both of the surfaces. Im using MLS and got the mirror finish I needed. If you take everything off the head yourself a machine shop will charge about $50.00. If you send a complete head to them to breakdown and rebuild then it will be about $150.00.

So you got your head gasket surface like this?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

 

[hypergenesis]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

This is the thread he is talking about, and talks about sandpaper

This is the way learned

It is also less hazardous than a slipping razor blade, and no chance of a bad gouge is something slips

So the sand paper way would have less margin of error at the end of the day?

I would honestly like to take the harder path that has less margin of error. Im literally planning to do all this in less than 3 days total and I really don't like to have a lot of problems on the way or do something thats going to F me over for a few days. I commute with this thing mostly 5 days a week the other 2 days in the week are spent working on it haha.

 

[ILL122]

So you got your head gasket surface like this?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

No not quite that good. Maybe a foggy mirror then. I used a precision straightedge and .003 feeler guage to check both head and block. numeous times and every angle possible. Took about 2 hrs to check block and head. The motor has cometic gasket on it using copper spray and arp studs at 90 ft Lbs. The car is used for drifting and we have clocked 350 hard miles on it since rebuild.(continuous bouncing on rev limiter @6800) No problems from the gasket at all.