cylinder head removal

[stb94tsi]

I need to change out my head with another that i am having machined, but I'm going through a divorce and just moved into an apt. not many tools and places to do this. I wanted to see if anyone had any himts, procedures to removing and reinstalling a head and how difficult it would be. thanks for any help...

 

[Quasimondo]

Get a copy of the field service manual. Get 10, 12,14, and 17mm sockets, both regular and deep-well. You'll also need a 12mm (I think) hex socket to get the head bolts off. Ziploc bags and a Sharpie to label where each bolt came from. Since you're taking the timing belt off, might as well put a fresh one on (and replace the balance shaft belt while you're at it). It's not difficult, just time consuming. If you've never done it before, however long you think it'll take, multiply it by ten for good measure.

 

[Jon_311]

I just did this last week, everything quasimodo said i agree with 100%, but on my 1990 I needed a 10mm hex socket for the head bolts, although I'm not sure about your car because you have a 1994 with a 7 bolt block . I couldn't find one in 1/2" drive so I bought an impact 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to hook it up to my torque wrench.

 

[stb94tsi]

its a freash 6 moth old 6-bolt that i'm changing the head on.....

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Then you need a 10mm hex. Ever set timing on a 4g63 by yourself before? If not, be sure to follow whatever directions you use very closely. A torque wrench must be used to torque your head back on. If you are putting on a new machined head then I would suggest getting some ARP's while you are in there. Just be sure to follow your procedure closely and you should be fine.

BTW, what you getting done to your head? I am curious because I have a head off at a shop right now getting ported, polished, milled and 1mm over valves......

 

[stb94tsi]

I'm getting another head done cause i have an oil leak that caused my alt/water pump belt to snap and in doing so over heated my new engine and warped the head, thats what my Friend said he just got done fixing the clutch fork for me and was putting everything back tougher and noticed that my cam gears were a little tight and also noticed that the plug in the head had melted so we think that i warped the head.so I'm having another one machined and just switching them out....

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

How did he notice your cam gears are a little tight? And what plug in the head? If you torched an engine to the point of warping a head then you have a few more problems than just replacing the head.

 

[stb94tsi]

the little plug on the head, you know when get you're car hot it's suppose to melt out and stop you're engine before it takes a crap.....thats what I've been told , i still drove it for a month after i fixed the belt with no difference in accl, idel,etc, just the clutch frok broke and replaced it and also another thing i didn't drive more then 2 min after it got hot.....
what would be the signs of the head being wrapped?

 

[Jon_311]

As I understand the plug in the head, it doesn't stop your engine or anything like that, it simply melts to indicate that the temperature of the coolant has exceeded a certain limit, as an insurance policy for the machine shop that put it in there for you so that you can't bring it back in and say that the head being warped is somehow their fault.

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

Oil in your coolant, coolant in your oil. Bad cylinder pressures. Do a pressure test and see what you get.

 

[stb94tsi]

thanks for heads up, but Ive never done a compression test, what, where, how etc....what would be a good step by step field manual to use Chilton's, Haynes, or something else for doing the head if need be...

 

[TwoLiterLaser]

I have no experience with either Chiltons or Haynes so I cannot tell you that. Find an faq for the pressure test. You have to buy a pressure tester from an auto parts store to do it. It is not hard at all but I will let you find that out for yourself.

 

[Quasimondo]

Get both. Chilton's has stuff that Haynes' doesn't and vice versa. You should still get the FSM as well since that goes more in depth. Compression test gauges are readily available from any parts store in the tools section. For 1G engines, normal pressuire is around 155 psi. Service limit is 114 psi, and there should be no more than a 14 psi difference between any cylinder. The pressure difference is the important part. If you have inconsistent numbers, the next step is a leakdown test that will pinpoint where you're losing compression from. Instructions on how to do a compression and leakdown test are both located in the VFAQ.

 

[MILITISINVICTUS]

As I understand the plug in the head, it doesn't stop your engine or anything like that, it simply melts to indicate that the temperature of the coolant has exceeded a certain limit, as an insurance policy for the machine shop that put it in there for you so that you can't bring it back in and say that the head being warped is somehow their fault.

Can someone post a description of where this plug is, or better, a picture of it in place? I hadn't read about this yet, and am interested in taking a look at the one on the cylinder head that I just pulled off.