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Custom Turbo kit.

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You can either use the links I already gave you with multiple bends and straight pipes, or do like me and get one with a bunch of 90's only.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-...043760660QQcategoryZ38634QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-...043765381QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I also had to get a 2-2.5" elbow reducer for the turbo compressor outlet.
http://www.machv.com/elco.html

I ended up also buying 2 red silicone couplers and some clamps from ATP for the sides of my FMIC. You can do it all with just 90's, you'll have to get one more though for coming off of the throttle body, unless you have a 2.5" bend from an intake like I did.

What exactly are you confused about when it comes to the oil lines?


Here is link to one of my threads, has some pics you could use I'm sure.
http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196963
 

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Is there 2 lines you need, I've heard feed and return, do 2 holes need to be drilled and how long does it need to be and is there a place on the turbo for it to go onto, and I don't get where it goes into the block at
 
You need a feed and a return line.

There will already be holes in the turbo. One on top(feed) and one on bottom(return). Gravity will do it's job. The feed line will be pressurized, once it enters the turbo, it won't be and gravity will direct it out the return port.

The only hole you have to drill is for the oil return line to connect to the pan. The best way to assure you don't have any leaks is to have a fitting welded or braized(brass welded to metal). That's what I did.

The feed line you will tap into the back of the block. That may sound scary, but it isn't. There are certain fittings you need that we will help you with once you're ready to start the process. Basically there is a plug in the back of the block that senses oil pressure. You get a tee fitting which will have one port for that sensor to plug in, and another for the oil to go out of, which you attatch the oil line to. That's how the oil is supplied to the turbo..
 
meh, josh isn't quite as good as me, but I'll let his explanation slide this time :p


keep em comin hahaha.....hey mikey I think he likes it LOL
 
I got the just of it, is the back of the block considered the side against the firewall or the side away from pulley's I'm sure the set up has something to do with it and is the plug I need to put the T in hard to get to. I guess that will be answered depending on what side it's on. I know I'm sounded repetive I just want to make sure. any pics?
 
back of the block is the side facing the firewall. you have a connector back there that is the oil pressure sending unit socket, you will remove that with a 1 1/16 socket, then u will thread a 3/8npt tee into the block. one side of the tee has your oil feed line, the other u hook up the sending unit for your electric oil pressure gauge :thumb:

If you look on the back side of the block towards the bottom, you can see my oil pressure sending unit for my gauge sticking out from where the tee goes into the block. That should give you a general idea of where to look ;)

EDIT: just in case u didn't know what sending unit is, it's the shiny guy right above the green from the halfshaft
 

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Blitzeclips said:
Wow, your car is in shambles brotha... :cool: brings back memories...

old pic ;)


car has been put back together and blown up again since then...that was 2 months ago ROFL
 
Do you get to the back of the block from under the car or is there a diff way and is it a pain in the ass, just to clear things up, there's the oil pan, line that goes from there to the back of the black then you put the T in the block and then a line to the turbo, meaning you need 2 lines?
 
yes, two lines...

one -10 fatty line, goes from oil return on bottom of turbo to the oil pan, that's it

feed line, -3 or -4 skinny line, goes from back of block in that tee we're talkin bout to the top of the turbo

the two lines don't meet up anywhere except that they both are in the turbo, make sense?
 
Thank you!, I finally got it that was the EXACT explination I was looking for.
 
Also, does anyone know what the streetsource.net turbo's internal wastegate is set at as far as PSI?
 
supposedly 10psi...but I spiked a "tad" more than that when I went boom...modded it after the rebuild and didn't spike anymore...flies right up to ~9-10psi and holds steady till shift :thumb: you could mod it even lower of course, but leaving it as it comes probably wouldn't be the safest idea.
 
I know there's a post and someone explains how to mod it to go lower, but I didn't really understand, maybe I'll ask again when I order the turbo and I can look at it to get a better feel for what you're saying but how do you know after you've done it exactly what you're boosting at? trial and error?
 
I wrote a lil tech article write-up on modding the wastegate. yeah, just mod it then go out driving, see where it's at. adjust it some if necessary and go out boosting again basically.

Feel free to ask more ?'s as the time gets closer and you actually have the turbo in front of you to look at :thumb:

http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211040
 
Yea trial and error with an accurate gauge. Do it safely by making sure you turn it more than you need, say down to 5 psi, then lossen it slowly and test about 1/4 turn at a time to get the psi u want.
 
napkinthief said:
Yea trial and error with an accurate gauge. Do it safely by making sure you turn it more than you need, say down to 5 psi, then lossen it slowly and test about 1/4 turn at a time to get the psi u want.


That's a good tip, BUT you need to keep in mind after turning the car on and going for a drive, that area gets hot as a mother. You can take one or 2 pulls alittle over 8-9 PSI..Don't pull to redline. If you see it hit 10+ take your foot off the gas, and don't go WOT until you have adjusted it lower. hitting 10 or 12 psi shouldn't damage anything as long as you hit it for no longer than 1 or 2 seconds. All motors are different, and yes that could finish it off but it's highly and I stress highly unlikely.
 
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