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CrankWalk Poll [merged]

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ChrisHKS

20+ Year Contributor
83
0
Sep 28, 2002
im starting this forum like a poll. i want to know (and sure others too) how many of you tuners have actually gotten crank walk on there 2g and wanna hear all the people that havent. please just leave a reply if u have gotten it or not. thanx-greatly appreciated

just wanna see how common everyone makes it seem
 
I would like to sum-up some things to entice more interest in this thread:

Actual percentage (417 voters)

95 – 24% Crankwalked
96 – 28% Crankwalked
97 – 29% Crankwalked
98 – 8 % Crankwalked
99 – 13% Crankwalked

Overall percentage of reported Cranwalking 2Gs – 22%

Even though, ‘98/’99 should have slightly lower percentage of crankwalk, because they are the newest, I still think that the new thrust bearing design has helped some.

Leon
 
thegreatms said:
yes, one of the mods from the dead board recommended it highly. I did even though i have a 1G with very little chance CW.

The problem is that many tracks now have rules that require you to have a functioning clutch switch :(. Nothing that a quick toggle switch can’t solve ;)
 
my old car (97 spyder) walked, my current car, 95 tsi. just walked too and so did my brother in law's 95 tsi. I was actually gonna replace my block with another 7 bolt. but i changed my mind. I'd rather go with a 6 bolt.
 
95 TSI AWD, 137k and still pulling, I will have to check the crack tollerenced when I get my new clutch in a few months.
 
well for obvious reasons, the poll doesn't let you cast more than one vote. however, it should allow more than 1 vote, as long as it's for a different year. i've got a 96 awd with 135,000 on it, and it didn't CW- although it did crap out for other reasons :cry: . and my old 97 awd now belongs to my brother. it's got 120,000 on it with no CW.

jeff
 
GRNDSM said:
The problem is that many tracks now have rules that require you to have a functioning clutch switch :(. Nothing that a quick toggle switch can’t solve ;)

As a side note, it *is* illegal to have that switch bypassed on the street. It can result in some dangerous situations. All it takes is one slip of the mind when in a rush, one friend sitting in the car and playing with it, one mechanic who's unfamiliar with your car...
 
>As a side note, it *is* illegal to have that switch bypassed on the street.

It is illegal to do many, many things. Including exceeding the speed limit…

>It can result in some dangerous situations. All it takes is one slip of the
>mind when in a rush, one friend sitting in the car and playing with it,
>one mechanic who's unfamiliar with your car...

You know what, I am sick and tired of people trying to make an idiot proof cars… Cars are inherently dangerous. “One slip the mind when in a rush (or otherwise)”, can cause a death of many people.

Why people get so fixated on that simple switch is beyond me.
 
GRNDSM said:
>As a side note, it *is* illegal to have that switch bypassed on the street.

It is illegal to many, many things. Including exceeding the speed limit…

>It can result in some dangerous situations. All it takes is one slip of the
>mind when in a rush, one friend sitting in the car and playing with it,
>one mechanic who's unfamiliar with your car...

You know what, I am sick and tired of people trying to make an idiot proof cars… Cars are inherently dangerous. “One slip the mind when in a rush (or otherwise)”, can cause a death of many people.

Why people get so fixated on that simple switch is beyond me.
You do know that there are still plenty of older model cars out there including my old 87 Porsche 944 that do not have that clutch activated switch. And any dumbass mechanic that does not know to mash the clutch in before starting a car shouldn't be working on it to begin with. ;)
 
Generation X said:
You do know that there are still plenty of older model cars out there including my old 87 Porsche 944 that do not have that clutch activated switch. And any dumbass mechanic that does not know to mash the clutch in before starting a car shouldn't be working on it to begin with. ;)

I am well aware of this, but this is a new IHRA (and maybe even NHRA) requirement. So if you have a classic 69 Camaro and you want to race at an IHRA track, you will have to wire in that switch. And this isn’t even a matter of how fast you are going, EVERYONE is required to have it…

We tried pleading the “crankwalk excuse" to exclude our DSMs from this requirement (last year, this was only track policy and not an official IHRA rule), to no avail. So most of us are only activating that clutch switch while at the track.

Leon
 
GRNDSM said:
Even though, ‘98/’99 should have slightly lower percentage of crankwalk, because they are the newest, I still think that the new thrust bearing design has helped some.

That comment seem to have confused a few people, so instead of answering induvidual PMs I am going to address it here.

In ’98 Mitsu changed thrust bearing design. They separated the MAIN and the THRUST into different bearings. At the time, some thought that this was Mitsu’s solution to crankwalk "non-problem". But time proved them wrong, because we started seeing some failed new style bearings. This thread is the first place where I see this being quantified. So it appears that the new design did help, but it hasn’t solved the problem.

I am not sure when in ’98 they switched the bearing design. The easiest way to tell (aside from pulling your engine apart) is to put your VIN into CAPS and see what kind of thrust bearing it comes up with. You can not retrofit new style bearing into older 7 bolt motors without also machining the block. So your ether have it, or you do not. If you want to prevent CW, switch to a 6 bolt....

Lastly, if you have a Mitsu remanufactured motor (you can not buy actualy NEW motors from Mitsu), they all come with the new style bearings.

Leon
 
GRNDSM said:
I am well aware of this, but this is a new IHRA (and maybe even NHRA) requirement. So if you have a classic 69 Camaro and you want to race at an IHRA track, you will have to wire in that switch. And this isn’t even a matter of how fast you are going, EVERYONE is required to have it…

We tried pleading the “crankwalk excuse" to exclude our DSMs from this requirement (last year, this was only track policy and not an official IHRA rule), to no avail. So most of us are only activating that clutch switch while at the track.

Leon
Thanks for the info Leon. I did not know that it's now a rule at the strips. I guess I will have to reconnect mine to be on the safe side if I go to the strips. :)
 
My 97 GST Spyder crankwalked fairly quickly after I put a ACT2600 clutch in it. Infact before I did the clutch It had no play in the crank. After about 4K miles and only 3 track visits running high 12's and trapping in the 114mph range a few times I blew my tranny at the track. When I got it on the lift I decided to check out the crank and yep it was moving a bit. It had absolutly NO drivablilty signs of crankwalk either. I ended up just pulling the motor along with the tranny and building a 6 bolt and buying a TRE Spec tranny.
 
Talon11 said:
Mine has 113K and is just starting to do the clutch thing where it doesn't wanna come up right away after a left turn. It's nothing serious as of right now though and I don't have any other symptoms so i'm gonna replace the clutch and throw out bearing and pray that that's all it was.

Make sure it aint the master cylinder too. :thumb:
 
i should vote twice cause mine walked at 36000 so i replace the motor with a fresh short block from mitsu and 2400 miles later it walked again. i almost gave up on her before putting in a 6 bolt
 
GRNDSM said:
That comment seem to have confused a few people, so instead of answering induvidual PMs I am going to address it here.

In ’98 Mitsu changed thrust bearing design. They separated the MAIN and the THRUST into different bearings. At the time, some thought that this was Mitsu’s solution to crankwalk "non-problem". But time proved them wrong, because we started seeing some failed new style bearings. This thread is the first place where I see this being quantified. So it appears that the new design did help, but it hasn’t solved the problem.

I am not sure when in ’98 they switched the bearing design. The easiest way to tell (aside from pulling your engine apart) is to put your VIN into CAPS and see what kind of thrust bearing it comes up with. You can not retrofit new style bearing into older 7 bolt motors without also machining the block. So your ether have it, or you do not. If you want to prevent CW, switch to a 6 bolt....

Lastly, if you have a Mitsu remanufactured motor (you can not buy actualy NEW motors from Mitsu), they all come with the new style bearings.

Leon

o.k i did the caps thing but how do you tell witch one you have i searched thrust and in part spec it says "thrust bearing set c plain" how can i tell if it seperate?
 
My mechanic pulled the oil pan and checked for play. He said the play is out of spec but the thrust bearings are not worn. They are like new. There are no symptoms of crankwalk. The car has about 105000 miles on it and is stock.

Any comments?
 
hey whats up? i dont understand how a post can be closed if the person never really got the answer they needed. anyways i was asking about crankshaft endplay numbers. how severe do they get? apparently some1 thought i meant mileage wise and thats not what i was looking for. CW obviously has to be considered CW if it goes over specifications. can any1 give me precise numbers? thanks

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178117
 
95 gst, 141000 miles. automatic, and no CW..i hear sometimes that if it was gonna CW it would have done it by now. we'll see what happens after i swap in a MT. anybody ever hear of CW after a MT swap?
 
BlandAnalogy said:
hey whats up? i dont understand how a post can be closed if the person never really got the answer they needed. anyways i was asking about crankshaft endplay numbers. how severe do they get? apparently some1 thought i meant mileage wise and thats not what i was looking for. CW obviously has to be considered CW if it goes over specifications. can any1 give me precise numbers? thanks

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178117
Stock tolerance is .002" - .007" with .009" given as the max value. The reason they closed the thread is that the cw issue has been beat to death with a stick. Good luck. :thumb:
 
1_vicious_gsx said:
I wouldn't let that mechanic work on my car. Ask yourself this, how would releasing the clutch quickly damage the thrust bearing? All you have done is quickly release the pressure against the thrust bearing.


Revving the crap out of a motor with the clutch in is what would actually cause the damage not letting it out fast.


Later
 
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