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52lbs :O that is huge amount of flow. what about at 20psi? my hx35 with 12cm2 gives me 40-42lbs on 20psi. i'm curious to know how much are you flowing.

I dont know but I will say this 52lbs and 520whp ain't bad considering this major boost leak:thumb: I am ready for the dyno again. this turbo ain't half bad if I have to say so myself;)
 

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^ you will even flow better once this leak is being fixed!
post up a log :D

Here are the logs on both dyno pulls. This was with no tuning what so ever.;) I could tell something was going on because the car would not build full boost until something like 6200rpm and was running rich rich. Boost would start out at 29 psi at around 6200rpm and drop quickly to 21or so psi so I started the examinatiion and found the leak the next day:|
 

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kelton, how come your maf and mafraw are exactly the same at all instances? How can you get it calibrated like that?
 
kelton, how come your maf and mafraw are exactly the same at all instances? How can you get it calibrated like that?

I have no idea may be someone can shed some insight as to how this may be possible. Maybe the boost leak? I am kind of stumped on this one.:hmm:
 
very unexpected. I never saw such calibrated maf ever, can you post up your log on ECMtuning forms if you are a member there so we can also learn why is it like that?
I'm sure it isn't because of boost leak as with boost leak there should be sufficient difference between booestest and actual boost.
You maf is equal to mafraw since start, help me calibrated mine like that :D
 
^ you will even flow better once this leak is being fixed!
post up a log :D

If I am not mistaken the turbo is capable of 70lbs/min reaching full boost early in the rpm range. I just hate that I wasted my money on the dyno session not knowing the car had such a huge boost leak. My goal is to break the 600whp mark. the turbo is certainly capable I jut got to get my other mods up to speed. :p
 
Honestly if your running a stock maf and that leak was after the turbo you should see less flow in your log with it fixed. With that leak your system is dumping metered air. This will result in an inflated airflow reading. I really dont see how your car was running worth a crap with that leak. Unless you have had it a longtime and you unknowingly tuned for it. However with the dyno #s and your flow readings Im thinking that the boost leak came from the last pull. If you had a leak like that throughout all your pulls you should have seen much higher flow readings or much lower hp#s.
 
Honestly if your running a stock maf and that leak was after the turbo you should see less flow in your log with it fixed. With that leak your system is dumping metered air. This will result in an inflated airflow reading. I really dont see how your car was running worth a crap with that leak. Unless you have had it a longtime and you unknowingly tuned for it. However with the dyno #s and your flow readings Im thinking that the boost leak came from the last pull. If you had a leak like that throughout all your pulls you should have seen much higher flow readings or much lower hp#s.

I understand what you are saying my leak started long before the dyno session and think about what you are saying the turbo "Dumping metered air with leak" To corect you I would have seen a higher maf reading (metered air) which i did 3000 hz at 24psi, Air flow est doesn't change regardless of boost leak or not, maf reading does and this is why a car run rich with boost leak because of maf numbers not airflow numbers therefore with the leak fixed airflow numbers will rise maf numbers should should be lower or stay the same! If there was no leak no air would get dumped all injected into the engine which results in more air in lbs/min, more hp ,less fuel because of less metered air or balanced metered air for fuel injected! therefore my issue with the whole dyno run is this the turbo is rated at 720hp 70plus lbs/min this should explain its ability to keep flow 52 lbs with such a huge boost leak car pig rich because of dumped metered air. I was somewhat dissapointed when I looked at my log to see such low airflow numbers, I really wanted to look at my logs and see at least 60lbs. here is a little description of the turbo I have:CT3-6265


Product: CT3-6265
Part Number: 326265-1X (TRIPLEX CERAMIC Bearings) 326265-2X (Standard Journal Bearing)
Description: CT3 Turbocharger with a CT62 Billet Compressor wheel, HE65 Turbine wheel .63 Non-Port T3 turbine housing. Perfect for 1.8 to 2.8 liter engines with power levels up to 720 HP.
Why Triplex Ceramic
The Triplex Ceramic ball bearing technology results in several important performance improvements compared to a conventional sleeve bearing systems. One important advantage is that the Triplex Ceramic can carry both axial and radial loads so that the need for a conventional thrust bearing is eliminated. The power loss attributed to a conventional thrust bearing is proportional to the fourth power of the radius and can amount to several horsepower at the high speeds at which turbochargers operate. The Triplex Ceramic is capable of carrying both high thrust loads and radial loads at the same time and usually absorb only fractions of a HP due to the anti friction characteristics.

The Triplex Ceramic Ceramic balls are also 60% lighter than steel balls and operate with lower vibration levels. Since centrifugal forces are significantly reduced at high speeds, their service life is two to five times longer. There is less heat build-up in the ceramic bearings during operation and they can reach operational speed up to 50% higher than steel ball bearings. These favorable mechanical characteristics of the ceramic ball bearings make them an ideal choice for turbocharger bearing systems that run at high operating speeds and are subjected to high exhaust gas temperatures.:boring:

I will be back at the dyno next week to at least get closer to my goal of 600whp. My thing is the turbo was ready for me but I was not ready for the turbo! Upgrades are in order. LOL!
 
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Your missing part of my point. The turbo dont care if there is a leak. It will flow what it flows. If you have a leak then your maf sees 52 lbs of air passing through it, your turbo sees 52 lbs of air passing through it but your engine is only ingesting 42 lbs of air since the leak is dumping 10lbs of air back into the atmosphere. This causes you to run extremely rich with lower timing than expected UNLESS you have tuned arround this leaK. Now once you fix this leak you will have to re tune if you unknowingly tuned arround the leak. You will also see less airflow at a given boost setting because now it will only take 42 lbs a min to maintain 25psi rather than the 52 it took when you were dumping 10 lbs back into the atmosphere rather than forcing it into the engine. So based off of the common result of 9-10 hp per lb a min of airflow you probably didnt have much of a leak during the bulk of your dyno time. OR you unknowingly tuned your maf arround the huge leak you had. The leak you showed and the airflow along with your dyno numbers just arent possible with a correctly tuned maf. One of the 3 isnt as it seemed during the pull.

EDIT If the leak is post maf and pre turbo then you can reverse everything I just said. You will run lean, your airflow reading will be lower than actual, and you will get more timing than you should.(unless you inadvertantly tuned arround it) This all being because your now pulling in unmetered air.

I hope you understand what Im trying to say now.

Air flow est doesn't change regardless of boost leak or not, maf reading does and this is why a car run rich with boost leak because of maf numbers not airflow numbers therefore with the leak fixed airflow numbers will rise maf numbers should should be lower or stay the same!

This is not correct. Your airflow will be inflated as will your maf raw BECAUSE your drawing more air through the maf than what your engine is actually seeing. You cannot inflate one and not the other. It might not be at the same rate because of your map sensor but there is a direct correlation to the maf raw and Airflow per rev. Airflow per rev is pretty much just a translation into something that we understand.

Completely disconnect an intercooler pipe rev your engine and tell me that you dont see an inflated airflow reading for the minute that the engine actually runs.
 
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Your missing part of my point. The turbo dont care if there is a leak. It will flow what it flows. If you have a leak then your maf sees 52 lbs of air passing through it, your turbo sees 52 lbs of air passing through it but your engine is only ingesting 42 lbs of air since the leak is dumping 10lbs of air back into the atmosphere. This causes you to run extremely rich with lower timing than expected UNLESS you have tuned arround this leaK. Now once you fix this leak you will have to re tune if you unknowingly tuned arround the leak. You will also see less airflow at a given boost setting because now it will only take 42 lbs a min to maintain 25psi rather than the 52 it took when you were dumping 10 lbs back into the atmosphere rather than forcing it into the engine. So based off of the common result of 9-10 hp per lb a min of airflow you probably didnt have much of a leak during the bulk of your dyno time. OR you unknowingly tuned your maf arround the huge leak you had. The leak you showed and the airflow along with your dyno numbers just arent possible with a correctly tuned maf. One of the 3 isnt as it seemed during the pull.

EDIT If the leak is post maf and pre turbo then you can reverse everything I just said. You will run lean, your airflow reading will be lower than actual, and you will get more timing than you should.(unless you inadvertantly tuned arround it) This all being because your now pulling in unmetered air.

I hope you understand what Im trying to say now.



This is not correct. Your airflow will be inflated as will your maf raw BECAUSE your drawing more air through the maf than what your engine is actually seeing. You cannot inflate one and not the other. It might not be at the same rate because of your map sensor but there is a direct correlation to the maf raw and Airflow per rev. Airflow per rev is pretty much just a translation into something that we understand.

Completely disconnect an intercooler pipe rev your engine and tell me that you dont see an inflated airflow reading for the minute that the engine actually runs.

We can go on and on about this and its not my style. I am not going to disrespect your opinion for you are entitle to it. At this point all I will say is now that the boost leak is fix the car is a beast and I will post dyno, log and video sometime next week.
 
To be clear Im not downing anything about you or your car. I fully believe the car runs better without the leak. I also know your a great tuner because of all the things you have done in the past. I would like to know what you see for airflow at the same boost and rpm though. Im sure you will see more airflow once the car is running correctly but thats because you should be able to maintain more boost at a higher rpm now. I would like to continue this discussion but in pm so that we dont clutter your thread any more on an off topic subject.
 
To be clear Im not downing anything about you or your car. I fully believe the car runs better without the leak. I also know your a great tuner because of all the things you have done in the past. I would like to know what you see for airflow at the same boost and rpm though. Im sure you will see more airflow once the car is running correctly but thats because you should be able to maintain more boost at a higher rpm now. I would like to continue this discussion but in pm so that we dont clutter your thread any more on an off topic subject.

No problem I am glad you are able to add to the discusion :thumb: I am in the process of modifying my valve cover with larger additional pcv ports should have it all done by thursday I will post a few log when done:thumb:
 
To be clear Im not downing anything about you or your car. I fully believe the car runs better without the leak. I also know your a great tuner because of all the things you have done in the past. I would like to know what you see for airflow at the same boost and rpm though. Im sure you will see more airflow once the car is running correctly but thats because you should be able to maintain more boost at a higher rpm now. I would like to continue this discussion but in pm so that we dont clutter your thread any more on an off topic subject.

well i had to see if mine would work and it works great. I will post some pics later of what I did later.:thumb:
 
Stop asking the same question in multiple threads. . . some are old that you are bumping. Some don't even apply. If you so scared, call folks like Lucas English, Curt Brown, or Marco Passante. They all have contact numbers.

.25" with Standard NGK 7s from my experience are all that's neccesary at this level. If you're having problems, bump to 8s. The stock spark is there. Please don't ask the same question that has been answered 1000 times over (even if you whine it isn't there, we all know it is) in thread after thread that MIGHT fit your goal.
 
^^ LOL he really is adamant about plug gap.

Where are you getting your dyno done? Dynolab? I would like to see this monster in person.

Yeah dyno lab. I will be going back sometime this week I will let you know. My punishment racing exhuast manifold cracked therefore needs to replaced.
 
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