Comp Turbo Died Today.

[keltalon]

what was the old housing?

.63 ar housing

 

[spoolin ddub]

.63 ar housing

looking at the dyno graph of the 6465 and the 6467. it looks like even with the boost leak on the gasket the 6467 hit 400whp sooner . Actually that graph looks like the 6467 spools the same as your old s256.

 

[keltalon]

looking at the dyno graph of the 6465 and the 6467it looks like the 6467 hit 400whp sooner. Actually it looks like the 6467 spools the same as your old s256.

No where close . Man I really appreciate your help with this matter I wish more people will chime but I don't think comp is getting much love on the tuners. I really like how the 6467 work with the fwd but I want a little more spool quicker not as much as with the bw s259 as dipicted in this dyno sheet but something a little better. I have though about comps 6262 but I know it may generate more torque than I want for a fwd and may not give me 600 whp with my current set up. I think the 6462 with a .82 ar housing my be the trick I have been studying and reading and watching videos for days and with my math I may help comp add a new line to their turbo options for guys like me. A perfect balance between street and track if you know what I mean

 

[keltalon]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/432608-cam-combination-question.html


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/431163-comp-6467-dyno.html

 

[spoolin ddub]

having a bigger compressor wheel with only a 1K difference between the same ft/lbs and hp is only .5 rpm difference with way more power on the new turbo and a leak right at the gasket of the turbo. For a street car and for the mods you have I don't see anything wrong with that graph. But give it a try.

 

[keltalon]

having a bigger compressor wheel with only a 1K difference between the same ft/lbs and hp is only .5 rpm difference with way more power on the new turbo and a leak right at the gasket of the turbo. For a street car and for the mods you have I don't see anything wrong with that graph. But give it a try.

Which one the 6467 or the 6765

 

[spoolin ddub]

Which one the 6467 or the 6765

the between the two dyno links posted. what were the turbos?

 

[keltalon]

the between the two dyno links posted. what were the turbos?

the quicker spool was the BW s259 and the 573 was the comp 6467 both 32psi

 

[spoolin ddub]

the quicker spool was the BW s259 and the 573 was the comp 6467 both 32psi

On the Comp dyno. Was there a gasket boost leak right at the turbo t3 gasket and possibly at the manifold gasket?

 

[We're on Boost]

No where close I have though about comps 6262 but I know it may generate more torque than I want for a fwd and may not give me 600 whp with my current set up. I think the 6462 with a .82 ar housing my be the trick

My guess is that the 6462 with a .82 hotside would spool a little later than the 6467 with the .63 hotside.
Also, are you picking basically from the "CT4 Billet series" turbos? I don't even see a 6467 on that list! I don't see 6462 on their list either.
Anyway, I think based on what you've posted, that a logical choice would be the CT4-6465 still with a .63a/r hot side. It should spool just a little sooner than the one you had, and make the 600 hp about as easily as the one you had. The 67 turbine wheel doesn't make much sense to me - they don't put it on anything rated less than 900 hp from what I see.
I guess my next choice after the 6465 would be the 6262 with .63 a/r.
I think these comp turbos are interesting. For one thing, the "triplex" ball bearing arrangement, I don't see a diagram, but it sounds exactly like how I would do it:
Two angular contact bearings are mounted in tandem on the compressor end of the cylinder in an arrangement that carries rotor thrust in both axial directions. A single angular contact bearing is slidably mounted under pre-load on the turbine end of the cylinder and is free to move axially with shaft elongation when heat is conducted down the shaft from the hot turbine wheel.
This is different than anybody else's bearing design, and it is just how I always thought a ball bearing system should be, except that the single bearing on the hot end I'm thinking should be a radial, not angular contact, ball bearing with no preload, but free to slide axially like they say. In my system there might be preload between the 2 angular contact bearings at the compressor end, as they have.
Also they have a lot of turbine housings including the one I need for my Shearer exhaust kit which I still am not using. Always seem to need the money for something else. Speaking of which, I don't see any .82 a/r housings in their list except for V-band. Is that what you are using?

I think it's cool they give a great diagram showing the outside dimensions of the compressor housing. I would have assumed that the CT4's would be in one of those giant "S" size covers, but they show 7.1" across which is a nice size, like an "E" size.

 

[keltalon]

My guess is that the 6462 with a .82 hotside would spool a little later than the 6467 with the .63 hotside.
Also, are you picking basically from the "CT4 Billet series" turbos? I don't even see a 6467 on that list! I don't see 6462 on their list either.
Anyway, I think based on what you've posted, that a logical choice would be the CT4-6465 still with a .63a/r hot side. It should spool just a little sooner than the one you had, and make the 600 hp about as easily as the one you had. The 67 turbine wheel doesn't make much sense to me - they don't put it on anything rated less than 900 hp from what I see.
I guess my next choice after the 6465 would be the 6262 with .63 a/r.
I think these comp turbos are interesting. For one thing, the "triplex" ball bearing arrangement, I don't see a diagram, but it sounds exactly like how I would do it:
Two angular contact bearings are mounted in tandem on the compressor end of the cylinder in an arrangement that carries rotor thrust in both axial directions. A single angular contact bearing is slidably mounted under pre-load on the turbine end of the cylinder and is free to move axially with shaft elongation when heat is conducted down the shaft from the hot turbine wheel.
This is different than anybody else's bearing design, and it is just how I always thought a ball bearing system should be, except that the single bearing on the hot end I'm thinking should be a radial, not angular contact, ball bearing with no preload, but free to slide axially like they say. In my system there might be preload between the 2 angular contact bearings at the compressor end, as they have.
Also they have a lot of turbine housings including the one I need for my Shearer exhaust kit which I still am not using. Always seem to need the money for something else. Speaking of which, I don't see any .82 a/r housings in their list except for V-band. Is that what you are using?

I think it's cool they give a great diagram showing the outside dimensions of the compressor housing. I would have assumed that the CT4's would be in one of those giant "S" size covers, but they show 7.1" across which is a nice size, like an "E" size.

Well they have a lot of options that not listed on their sight. I had the 6465 with .63 housing on the car and made 553hp 31 psi car spooled quite well.

 

[keltalon]

On the Comp dyno. Was there a gasket boost leak right at the turbo t3 gasket and possibly at the manifold gasket?

yeah. Never got back to the dyno either..

 

[We're on Boost]

I had the 6465 with .63 housing on the car and made 553hp 31 psi car spooled quite well.

Oh yeah

Well 553 hp is pretty decent for 31 psi. I think if you want 600 hp with the current mods, you will have to raise the boost. And if you do go with an .82 a/r turbine housing, you won't have to raise the boost as much. But then the spool will be worse.

 

[pj91gsx]

"Still spinnin....still spinnin.....still spinnin......DOH!!!.....not spinnin no mo....." Sorry bro...couldn't resist! Lol. Sorry to hear this man. Hope they take care of ya!

This action was bad for the turbo. Reving the motor and cutting it off and seeing how long the turbo spins can let the oil dry off the internal parts of the turbo and cause them to wear out faster. However, there is a lady here with a triple BB 60-1 that has given up on Comps BB turbos because of blown seals. A local guy had a failure with a Comp 6262 JB turbo, it turned out that the turbo had a 270 degree thrust bearing, and it needed a rebuild after a thrustbearing failure after 2 years of use. From the people that own Comp turbos here, they say their customer service is not very helpful. The Comp turbos take a garrett rebuild kit and use a garrett center section. Comp wanted 250$ for the seals and 300 for the whole rebuild kit for this guys turbo.

 

[JusMX141]

This action was bad for the turbo. Reving the motor and cutting it off and seeing how long the turbo spins can let the oil dry off the internal parts of the turbo and cause them to wear out faster.

Journal bearing, absolutely.

Ball bearing, not so much. You'd be shocked how well a ball bearing turbo can survive with a ridiculously small amount of oil.

A local guy had a failure with a Comp 6262 JB turbo, it turned out that the turbo had a 270 degree thrust bearing, and it needed a rebuild after a thrustbearing failure after 2 years of use.

THAT is ridiculous. That thrust system is designed for 8psi on OEM turbos, not any type of performance turbo....ever. I was in a pinch one time (low on parts) and a local customer had an oil contamination emergency- at the time, all I had on stock was a 270* kit for their 50-trim. Eight months later the turbo was already starting to develop thrust play even though boost never went over 18psi.

 

[keltalon]

This action was bad for the turbo. Reving the motor and cutting it off and seeing how long the turbo spins can let the oil dry off the internal parts of the turbo and cause them to wear out faster. However, there is a lady here with a triple BB 60-1 that has given up on Comps BB turbos because of blown seals. A local guy had a failure with a Comp 6262 JB turbo, it turned out that the turbo had a 270 degree thrust bearing, and it needed a rebuild after a thrustbearing failure after 2 years of use. From the people that own Comp turbos here, they say their customer service is not very helpful. The Comp turbos take a garrett rebuild kit and use a garrett center section. Comp wanted 250$ for the seals and 300 for the whole rebuild kit for this guys turbo.

Beside what justin said^^^ that video was made almost a year ago the turbo performed flawlessly. Like was stated in an earlier post debris got in the turbo restrictor during the upgrade. I was surprised it lasted 3 days of 30 psi of boost with no oil, now that's amazing to me. It lets me know it takes a lot to kill one of these bad boys.

 

[keltalon]

Oh yeah

Well 553 hp is pretty decent for 31 psi. I think if you want 600 hp with the current mods, you will have to raise the boost. And if you do go with an .82 a/r turbine housing, you won't have to raise the boost as much. But then the spool will be worse.

Well this was my other issue which I will discuss after I get the new turbo on the car. Boost would go no higher than 32psi no matter what I did. Boost line on tops of waste gate, waste gate disconnected, ect. I think either my blow off valve or my waste gate is the culprit. The forge bov I have been reading flutters and leak so it may be the issue

 

[We're on Boost]

The forge bov I have been reading flutters and leak so it may be the issue

Yeah, I have seen several posts in evom about the Forge BOV leaking. This was a year or 2 ago I think.

You'd be shocked how well a ball bearing turbo can survive with a ridiculously small amount of oil.

Ok I'm in shock right now, because I looked at their web site again and I noticed one of the options is "water only (oil-less)". What the ....??

 

[red1993gsallmt]

Yeah, I have seen several posts in evom about the Forge BOV leaking. This was a year or 2 ago I think.



Ok I'm in shock right now, because I looked at their web site again and I noticed one of the options is "water only (oil-less)". What the ....??

Yea I think its comp that is building the oiless turbos, its not really oiless it must have some type of grease packed in the chra, self contained. If they ever get the formula right for the grease or whatever they are using its not a bad idea for a drag car. And you would definitly want to run the coolant lines with it to keep the lube temp in check. Who knows, in ten years we may all have self contained chras. Justin what do you think about it?

 

[spoolin ddub]

I have a friend whose Forged bov was leaking. He had it welded on the outside of the BOV and it still leaked. He then had to have the whole inside welded to make it one piece. Then it stop leaking. Forged BOV are pieces of shit!!!

Comp has been making Oil-less turbos for about 2yrs with great success. But they are not cheap.

I posted info here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...anyone-ran-comp-turbo-innovative-turbo-6.html

 

[keltalon]

Well comp shipped the 6765 billet ct4 it will be here friday I am going to have to work with it. I have been told that it will complement the fwd nicely I am optimistic

 

[spoolin ddub]

Well comp shipped the 6765 billet ct4 it will be here friday I am going to have to work with it. I have been told that it will complement the fwd nicely I am optimistic

This is something I really look forward to see . They way your setup is with no huge cam, no crazy head work, and no big intake manifold. It will complement fwd but I hope you are ready .

 

[keltalon]

This is something I really look forward to see . They way your setup is with no huge cam, no crazy head work, and no big intake manifold. It will complement fwd but I hope you are ready .

Ready I am brother . The turbo came in today and is on the car. I need to go over to summit and pick up a few fittings

 

[keltalon]

Ok chime in fellas I am ready to tackle this boosting issue Got the turbo on the car and because of some unknown reason i can't boost past 23 psi and this is at redline. I have read many of theads on this subject and have tried:

1. Boost leak test- none
   Disconnected wastegate- no change

Give me some suggestions thanks.

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok chime in fellas I am ready to tackle this boosting issue Got the turbo on the car and because of some unknown reason i can't boost past 23 psi and this is at redline. I have read many of theads on this subject and have tried:

1. Boost leak test- none
   Disconnected wastegate- no change

Give me some suggestions thanks.

It's 23 now? Up in post 42 it was 32 psi. It's gotten worse?