2G Clutch bleeding not working?

[Tigerinstincts]

Driving home Saturday night and felt my clutch pedal go mushy while shifting. I was able to drive it until I came to a red light then I had to call a tow truck. It has a exedy stage 3 clutch from previous owner and I've had the car about a year and half now since I bought it.
I got it to the shop I work at and ordered both clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and bled according to the guide everyone recommends on this site (friend depresses clutch, I open bleeder screw, I close bleeder screw, friend slowly lifts clutch pedal off the floor.) Also I had a vacuum hose attached to the bleeder screw which led to the other end of the hose being submerged in a bottle of brake fluid so no extra air gets in through the bleeder. Bled the system 10 to 15 times using this method with no luck. This also includes me bleeding the slave cylinder individually by having my friend fully depress the slave cylinder rod with a c clamp and me opening and closing the bleeder screw then he releases the c clamp.
I have access to a vacuum bleeder and pulled a whole bottle of dot 3 brake fluid through the system to get any other little extra air bubbles that may still be in the system. Still no luck and I think I've gone through at least 3 bottles of brake fluid total.
Also I checked the slave cylinder rod to see if it moves while my friend depresses the clutch pedal and it moves just about an inch so I'm pretty sure my hydraulic system is ok.
What am I missing? Possibly clutch assembly problem?

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Shift cables have no effect on the fork. The fork is operated by the clutch pedal.

Livedsm4g63 the cables only move the two levers two directions. One up and down and the other front and back. The fact he can get into fifth(right and up) and fourth(down) the shift cables should be able to go down and right for reverse. If cables were misadjusted you get groups of gears not working. Such as 2nd 4th and reverse or 5th and reverse. The fact he had the transmission out leads me to believe something is physically blocking the levers ecspecially when reverse worked before.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Did you remove the reverse switch? If you did and installed it incorrectly it can cause reverse to block out but i really think ur shift levers on the trans is hitting something (intercooler pipe,radiator hose)

 

[Tigerinstincts]

I did find that my speedo connection was snapped in half(which is the reason for my speedo being off by 10mph; separate problem) but I'll check the other connections as well and check if my LIC piping is in the way.

I'll have to rewatch jacks video on clutch adjustment as well to get that tob to shut the hell up.

 

[Tigerinstincts]

Idk what happened between now and yesterday but my coworker gets in the car and puts in reverse....I did move wires/ hoses out of the way but none were touching the cables or in the way when I moved them. Im thoroughly confused and happy at the same time. Just need to adjust clutch engagement now

 

[livedsm4g63]

Normally the clutch fork fails due to improper clutch adjustment, aka you are making it travel too far. Or it could break due to fatigue. These parts arnt made to last a lifetime.

Im not sure if 2gs are the same but if your pedal assembly is wearing out and you adjust your clutch to press further and further on the fork, she will break. Happened to me when I was having this same issue. Forgot to add it to the list.

 

[mitsubishikid]

^
They last a lot longer if you get the forged clutch fork from competition clutch , thats what I bought for my 1g when the TOB started whirring, I just haven't had the time to do anything with the car though since my new project showed up.

But a worn pedal is a good guess, at the least it's worth inspecting the pedal assembly.

 

[Tigerinstincts]

So I adjusted my clutch per jacks video and I have it perfect but I can hear my tob still making that light grinding noise. I did shim my pivot ball with one washer and I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it(I'll take pics of how far over it sits towards the drivers side). Anyway, with the car idling in neutral, I can push the clutch in and the light grinding noise goes away. As soon as I release the clutch the noise comes back and the rpms dip slightly. Maybe around 100 rpms but you can hear it in the tone of the exhaust quite well and it has me worried.. I guess what I'm asking is are tob supposed to be audible with the clutch engaged? If not, could the pivot ball be shimmed too far out?

 

[mitsubishikid]

What TOB are you using?
some after-market all metal ones will [over time] eat away at the aluminum input shaft collar casing, which is why I got my hands on the oem unit, if you go back in there to replace it you should too.
if you do pull the trans again yank the old TOB out of there and tear it down to see why [or if it is about to] fail the backing plate on them tends to crack if they are not made of good enough materials.

 

[Tigerinstincts]

Its an OEM unit. I ordered it straight from JNZ..

 

[emcee]

After replacing the master cylinder mine did the same thing. Turned out the clutch pedal was not adjusted quite right and that allowed "pump up" over some miles of driving. See this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-pedal-pump-up.170178/