Clutch bleeding

[Evilimports]

I did find a few threads on bleeding the clutch but none of them seem to end up with and answer. I did an auto swap, new master, slave, act 2600 clutch kit, braided line from extreampsi. The entire clutch system is brand new, I eliminated the accumulator thing and take the spring and restricter out of the slave too. I know how to bleed a hydraulic system which makes this all the more frustrating. I just put my engine in last night and i dont want to put everything back together untill i know i have a clutch pedal.

 

[No_Skillz]

What's your question?

 

[Evilimports]

, wow that might help. I can not get any clutch pressure what so ever. there are no leaks, everything is brand new, and ive bleed the hell out of it.

 

[No_Skillz]

Please describe your bleeding process in detail. This process requires 2 people unless you have a speed bleeder or a checkvalve. Is your pedal just falling to the floor, or does it require effort to push down and does not return?

 

[Evilimports]

I say down, buddy pushes peldal down and replys "down" I crack the bleeder open and allow it to stay open until pressure decreases and i close it, not allowing any possibility for air to enter the system. I say up and he lets the pedal up. I havnt had any air exit the system since i first bleed it. There is just a little pedal at the floor but not much at all. When i watch the fork move it only moves a little past center and does not loose pressure. The clutch fork and ball are new too

 

[No_Skillz]

Are you using a small hose off the bleeder nipple? It will make it easier to see any air bubbles and prevent air bubbles from going back in. From my experience I've found air also leaks through the threads, so you should try closing off the bleeder before all pressure is lost.

Other than that it sounds like you've got the right procedure down. Just keep going at it. I remember it took me longer than I thought it would, too.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

You have the right idea just keep going until you have some fluid comming out. Since it is a whole new system it will probably take some time. Keep us posted and let us know something.

 

[Evilimports]

Thats the thing. I'm getting a nice, consistent steady stream of fluid. I'm hoping i might be able to drive the car tomorrow after 7 months of not being able to drive it, but ill need a clutch first!

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[my dreamt dsm]

I am having the same problem. I've bleed 1 bottle of fluid. And I'm still not getting pressure. Keep me posted cause Im interested in the ANSWER!

 

[ifeelubu]

I have a similar problem my clutch sounds like is dragging when I have it in neutral and sometimes it wont go into gear when I press the clutch. I havbe bleed it many times it still does it sometimes it drives fine and then others it wont go into gear and it has that dragging sound.

 

[92nolatist]

Is it adjusted properly? The bleeding procedure is right on the mark BTW, but I'm thinking it's not adjusted properly. Anybody else think so too???

 

[trunks]

I'm sure you did but make sure the cap is off the reservior.

 

[1995gstr]

Heres a good link on clutch bleeding, How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
Also did you adjust the rod on the master cylinder I had a similar issue and that ended up being the problem.

 

[Evilimports]

Actually i left the cap on. I know alot of systems can burp when the pedal is depressed. Plus i get good fluid flow when bleeding, what would the cap have to do with it? And what exactly is a properly adjusted pedal? I have it adjusted all the way out because i wanted to get the most travel to help solve the problem. I tried turning it down a bit and it didn't seem to change anything.

 

[1995gstr]

You may want to try it agian with the cap off this time to be able to watch the fluid and be sure you are not gettnig any air in the line. It drains pretty quick.

 

[1bad95tsi]

To bleed a hydraulic clutch properly submerge a hose off your bleeder into fluid - crack the bleeder loose and leave the cap off the reservoir - after the bleeder is loose have some one push and pull the pedal back up 15-20 times - then close the bleeder you will get pedal

 

[My1GLaser]

And what exactly is a properly adjusted pedal?

However, mine doesn't disengage right now when adjusted properly, and I have the rod screwed out WAAAYYYY to far just so I can drive it. I will trace down the problem soon enough and its not my DD.

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

 

[Evilimports]

I just followed that link to the t and nothing happend. Left the cap off. Purged the slave. Ive also tried it with a hose submerged in brake fluid connected to the slave. And i havnt once let the master go dry

 

[1995gstr]

Heres whats on the link by team RIP. Also where is the clutch fork position while your not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor?





MAKE CERTAIN TO FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE BEFORE TEST DRIVING THE CAR.

1. Inspect and fill clutch master cylinder reservoir with appropriate hydraulic oil. You will want to check this during the bleeding process making sure it doesn't run out or you will get air into the system again. Leave cap off of reservoir.

2. Have your friend camp in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal when you tell him to.

3. During this procedure DO NOT allow your friend to "pump" the clutch pedal.

4. You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid by using a small hose and a soda bottle. Brake fluid is nasty stuff so wear gloves.

5. (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.

6. (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.

7. (You) Close bleed screw quickly.

8. (Helper) Release pedal completely

9. (You) Top off fluid in reservoir. Leave cap off of reservoir.

10. Repeat steps #6 - #9 no less than 10 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!

11. Now you will want to purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles that might be trapped inside of it.

12. Grab the clutch fork and push towards the slave cylinder pushing the rod all of the way into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.

13. (You) open bleed valve and command helper to push the clutch down slowly purging any air that was trapped in the slave cylinder

14. (Helper) As soon as the pedal hits the floor command your bleeder monkey to close the valve before you let the pedal return from the floor.

15. Repeat steps #6 - #9 one last time and proceed to the clutch reality check.



CLUTCH REALITY CHECK

The easiest way to do the reality check of the clutch is to get all four tires in the air by placing the car on a hoist.

1. Start the engine and put the car into 1st gear.

2. Slowly let the clutch out until the wheels start to turn round and round.

3. Now slowly push the clutch in until the wheel stop turning. Hold the clutch at this position.

4. At this point the clutch pedal should be at least 2-3 inches off the carpet. If not then the clutch needs adjustment and/or the clutch needs to be inspected for issues that are causing it not to release fully.

The reason why the clutch should be this far off the floor at the engagement point is to allow enough room for movement of the clutch disc so it finds a nice center position between the flywheel and pressure plate. While this may be a tedious method to make sure clutch is functioning properly but this is the preferred method and the true reality check for where the clutch releases.

NOTE: Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) has revised some of their clutches for the DSM. They feature the larger damper springs in the sprung hub assembly and a revised pressure plate/ spring plate. The larger springs are an excellent improvement but there are some things you need to know about. It is possible for the spring plate fingers to make contact with the damper springs if the clutch is being over-extended. The solution is to pay special attention while adjusting the clutch so that you get ample clutch release but not so much that the spring plate makes contact with the damper springs.

 

[Evilimports]

I followed the RIP instructions religiously and got a tiny bit more pedal. Still not enough to make the pedal return. The clutch for is in the middle of the opening it comes out of when the pedal is at rest. I also the the clutch pedal adjusted for maximum possible travel.

 

[1995gstr]

Did you try out your clutch pedal before removing the spring and restrictor from the slave?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I havnt had any air exit the system since i first bleed it. There is just a little pedal at the floor but not much at all.

Is that supposed to be pedal, or is that meant to be puddle?

 

[1bad95tsi]

On a hydraulic clutch you dont open then pump and close the bleeder - leave it open -submerged keep the resiorvor fillede up and have ## buddy pump the pedal in and out slowly 15-20 times - bleeder open then close it then
WELLA you have pedal

 

[Evilimports]

Is that supposed to be pedal, or is that meant to be puddle?

Its pedal. I get just a little resistance when its all the way to the floor, but nothing like the stiff clutch pedal your suppose to have with the act 2600

 

[Drifter27_04]

Have you adjusted the Master Cylinder Rod any?