Clutch bleeding

[Evilimports]

I did find a few threads on bleeding the clutch but none of them seem to end up with and answer. I did an auto swap, new master, slave, act 2600 clutch kit, braided line from extreampsi. The entire clutch system is brand new, I eliminated the accumulator thing and take the spring and restricter out of the slave too. I know how to bleed a hydraulic system which makes this all the more frustrating. I just put my engine in last night and i dont want to put everything back together untill i know i have a clutch pedal.

 

[Evilimports]

On a hydraulic clutch you dont open then pump and close the bleeder - leave it open -submerged keep the resiorvor fillede up and have ## buddy pump the pedal in and out slowly 15-20 times - bleeder open then close it then
WELLA you have pedal

Ive tried that too and got nothing. So far ive tried every way that has been suggested. Today is a new day though and im going to attempt it all again.

 

[Evilimports]

Have you adjusted the Master Cylinder Rod any?

The rod is fully extended and the stop is all the way back for maximum travel. I know if the rod is extended to far it wont allow fluid to flow back into the system but right now that is desirable. Plus i did have it adjusted right to the point where it would allow fluid to flow back and still have had no results

 

[jrohner]

If you don't have the master cylinder rod adjusted correctly it won't bleed right or have pedal. You have to have a slight bit of free play at the top to allow fluid to travel back into the master cylinder from the line to the slave. Too much free play, and you'll use up most of the travel just taking up the free play.

Adjust like the jackstransmission video says for proper clutch adjustment, that would be the first step to getting your clutch working. Also, have someone hold the pedal down for a while and check all your connections for leaks. Check the master and slave as well, just because they're new doesn't mean they're good for sure.

 

[Evilimports]

Did you try out your clutch pedal before removing the spring and restrictor from the slave?

No i did not. I had read about people removing them and when i installed the braided clutch line the spring and restrictor fell right out so i left them out

 

[jrohner]

The rod is fully extended and the stop is all the way back for maximum travel. I know if the rod is extended to far it wont allow fluid to flow back into the system but right now that is desirable. Plus i did have it adjusted right to the point where it would allow fluid to flow back and still have had no results

That is never desirable. If that's the only way to get it to work better, you have issues -- most likely a bad slave cylinder. You won't even be able to get it bled right that way. It's the same as trying to bleed without letting up all the way on the pedal, try bleeding something only letting up 1/2 way between, it doesn't work and CAN'T work.

 

[Evilimports]

Well it still hasnt worked and everything is new. If i cant get it to work to day im going to exchange the master and slave and try again. On top of all the probelms ive had trying to get this build done, yesterday i went fire it up for the first time and the new starter fried. What the hell!!

 

[jrohner]

When you have the master rod extended so the master can't go back all the way, you're basically pushing and pulling the same fluid back and forth in the line.

 

[Evilimports]

I watch the video and it was to my understanding that having the rod adjusted to far would not allow fluid to travel back into the master cylinder reservoir which would cause the clutch to drag becuase there would still be pressure in the line. At this stage, not allowing fluid to flow back through the system sounds desirable. However, i will properly adjust everything and try it all again. I will definitely keep you guys posted with anything i may or my not find

 

[Evilimports]

When you have the master rod extended so the master can't go back all the way, you're basically pushing and pulling the same fluid back and forth in the line.

For the record, the majority of the time i was bleeding i had the pedal adjusted properly ( i was able to push the clutch fork back in) After reading some posts last night i fully extended the rod at 1am to give it one last try

 

[Evilimports]

Well I found that restrictor and spring I took out of the slave so I put it back in and actually got a pedal. It feels like a drivable pedal but from what Ive read the act 2600 is supose to feel pretty hard and i wouldn't call this a hard pedal.

 

[1995gstr]

Good to hear you got some type of pedal though. The 2600 to me isnt that hard to push in so you may be ok. I had one of the sbr pressure plates and then the act 2600 and it felt close to the stock cluth, or I just forgot how soft the stock cluth is havent had one in awhile.

 

[Evilimports]

Well I was thinking the same thing because the pedal doesnt feel to bad. I havnt drove it yet so im not sure how well it will actually disengage. I work at a shop though and took a 5speed subaru out and its oem clutch was stiffer then my act2600