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Clevite 77 engine bearings [Merged 3-8]

clevite bearings or mitsu bearings?

  • clevite

    Votes: 37 74.0%
  • mitsu/factory

    Votes: 13 26.0%

  • Total voters
    50

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so i have had my car off the road for a month or 2 with a bad rod bearing and i finally got some clevite's with standard journal ,put um in fired it up.. started knocking again , it also sound's like im knocking in a diffrent rod. Im gonna pull the oil pan and see what's up maybe i just suck as a mechanic..
also the little lip that stick's out to hold in place was a real tight fit in the end cap and rod, real tight. Any idea's of what i might be doing wrong...

If i can't fix it I'm gonna try to go 6 bolt.. My plan was buy a donor car with awd pull the back end off and put it on my car and all the other goodies.. what's every body think.. hard, prolly put my car might not be going any were as it is. also i don't know if that will fit... thank's for the help...
Blaise
 
you probably should have had your rods and crank checked out to make sure they were up to spec first....

one could be worn out and need a difference sized bearing and remachined.
 
if it was a rod bearing that was bad, you probley ruined you crank. if so get a new one or get it turned if you can.
 
yea that's what most people said to do but that's to much money. this was kinda too test it to see if i could get a little more out of it. most people also said instead of rebuilding this go six bolt. but i dont understan what the diffrence is, if everybody swap's piston's for 2g's. sorry if i sound stupid for not turning the crank or anything.

How about the awd six bolt conversion is that possible?
 
yea ive heard of crankwalk people say it's commen people say it's not you can get it in a six bolt to.. would that have anything to do with my rod bearing's...?
 
no it was defilantly the rod bearing's i pulled them out before and you could push one rod up and down freely and the bearing was worn down and smashed up a little..

time to go six bolt i guess.. WTF
 
Im looking to do a stock rebuild, And have been looking at ITM and clevite bearings. Any upside or downside to either one?
 
I have measured my rod bearing clearance to be .003" (out of spec') with Clevite bearings and .002" (within spec') with Mitsubishi bearings.

Jay White
 
apparently clevite started making their bearings overseas and changed their bearings to aluminum which is causing premature bearing wear. slowboy says that acl/engine pro is what they are switching to and recommended me to use them. just thought i would share this info with all the tuners out their rebuilding their motors.

thanks
david
 
Thanks David, I am clevite all aluminum mains and tri 77 rod bearings with no problems so far. I guess they are not making the tri metal 77 bearings anymore for the 4g63 motors just all aluminum.
I have seen 1 guy with king bearings and the bearing layers seperated causing a failure.
 
TSIfreek said:
Thanks David, I am clevite all aluminum mains and tri 77 rod bearings with no problems so far. I guess they are not making the tri metal 77 bearings anymore for the 4g63 motors just all aluminum.
I have seen 1 guy with king bearings and the bearing layers seperated causing a failure.

(read edit)
Same thing happened to me, King rod bearings were installed in my motor when I specifically asked for Clevites, less than 10k miles later one of the rod bearings failed. I have since replaced all 4 rod bearings with the aluminum Clevites and have about 5k on them, so far so good.

[edit]I was mistaken, the failed bearings out of my motor were NDC bearings, STD size, marked C1-1085. I had no luck finding this part number anywhere other than King Bearings' website so I assumed it was from them, however they just list other manufacturer part numbers for cross reference.[/edit]
 
TSIfreek said:
Thanks David, I am clevite all aluminum mains and tri 77 rod bearings with no problems so far. I guess they are not making the tri metal 77 bearings anymore for the 4g63 motors just all aluminum.
I have seen 1 guy with king bearings and the bearing layers seperated causing a failure.

well slowboy accidently sent me the wrog bearings so i called them and asked them why they sent me one set of engine pro bearings and the other clevite. he said because they stoped selling clevite and started selling engine pro/acl. the reason behind that is because they had problems with the new clevite. they swear by the tri metal and switched to ac/engine pro because they still make their bearings this way. i since have sent back my clevites for some acl's!


hope this helps someone
david
 
Clevite makes both trimetal and aluminum bearings for the 4g motors.

The high crush trimetal is 1120P

The aluminum is 1120AL

Use the trimetal in any high performance application. As far as I know, their mains are all aluminums. That isn't a concern though because they don't have any problems.

Kevin
 
How can you get the P bearing when Clevite says it is discontinued/superceded by the AL? Then you get one out of three sets of AL which contains the P bearings.
What’s the secret?
 
I glad I got to see this thread, I was gonna try and run the King bearings for my Main and rod s but after seeing this I picked up some OEs from a freind for 80 bucks both main and rods sets. :D
 
You can’t tell anymore what Clevite is using in their sets.
Supposedly the CB1120P was discontinued, being replaced with CB1120AL. However the sets I’ve got in standard size have CB1120P bearings with the Clevite logo stamped and they are made in the USA.
The .25MM ones have C1-1085 stamped and they are made by NDC in Japan.
On the other hand the main bearings for a 240 Datsun are made by ACL in Australia. Funny that everybody seemed to run away from ACL because of the problems they had with them yet Clevite is packing them and put their name on it.
Both King and OEM bearings are the so called all-aluminum style and the factory ones are excellent. That’s probably why they are also used by both Honda and Toyota in their engines.
 
Keep in mind that you'll be running across shelved stock in some cases, and the "good" stuff will be around, probably for years. But you'll need a savvy parts man to be able to make the distinction and pull the "right" ones.
 
Even if your guy is your best friend, can you tell him to go ahead and open each box labeled AL to check if there is P bearings in it? Cause that’s what I got P in AL labeled boxes. At least some of them.
 
Defiant said:
Keep in mind that you'll be running across shelved stock in some cases, and the "good" stuff will be around, probably for years. But you'll need a savvy parts man to be able to make the distinction and pull the "right" ones.
That's doubtful. Most shops return stock that does not sell within a year and most shops only return about 5% of what they buy from distributors (mostly more expensive priced goods). I have checked with Clevite and they do not have any known stock of the "P's" in any of their nationwide warehouses. It's not going to be an easy task to locate the few vendors that bought some of the P's 12+ months ago and still have them laying around.

Suparata said:
Even if your guy is your best friend, can you tell him to go ahead and open each box labeled AL to check if there is P bearings in it? Cause that’s what I got P in AL labeled boxes. At least some of them.
What do you look for, on the bearing itself, to distinguish the AL's from the P's?
 
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