Porting Tools [Merged 3-8] Tool die grinder Dremel

[Jingx284]

a dremel....

there is no way in hell that im gonna port something again with a drill or a dremel. it take a hella long time to do it.

 

[larsenracing]

the only good way to port at home is a good air compressor not a little $100 from walmart or whatever a good one and a die grinder with a carbide bit. they are expensave but will save time because they will not dull so quick and will not fill up. good luck

 

[-DSM2NR-]

, I actually started porting my turbo housing yesterday with a drill.

 

[TSIkw]

I ported out my O2 housing with a drill and grinding stones....i only when through 3 stones and at 3 bucks each who cares. It really didn't take me that long either; maybe 3 hours or so.

It was my first port job and I'm sure i could have done a better job with the right tools but it worked good enought for me.

 

[project_tsi]

If you can afford it, nothing beats a good set of Carbide Burrs. A good set may cost up wards of $250, but it is well worth it if you do alot of porting. I was lucky enough to borrow a set and see for myself, and it literally cut the time in half, if not more.

The stones work OK for small jobs, and the Sand Paper Rolls become useless to quick, and must be changed every few minutes, if your aggressive at porting like myself.

I would also like to add that the importance of "polishing" the ex. side parts is very dear. The ex. side needs the extra smoothness. By "polishing" the ex. side, it will resist the carbon deposits exited from the ex. cyle. and couse less build up of carbon and debris.

 

[-DSM2NR-]

k, thx for the info guys. I'll post some pics up when the job is done. I'm about 80% done.

 

[machv83]

I would say get a dremel multi tool they arnt verry must u can pick one up @ home depot or lowes or just ask for one for christmas.

 

[chasin 8's]

I'm a machinist so I can't say I have'nt done a ton of port jobs,buut I ca't really say it does much unless your really removing some serious amounts of metal,and not just scratching up the surface.I just bought Sean Glazar's HKS exhaust manifold and he did'nt port a single inch of it.Still had the cast marks inside it.There is also the theory that more interior volume to fill with exhaust energy,the more lag you will actually experiance.To a certain extent,porting has become a gimick.A quick money maker amongst the import crowd.I just bought a honing plate last month,so flow benched my head.In the past when we put together a motor,we just make sure the head is in new condition.We don't port for no reason.If you have bigger valves,than you can flow more.But if you have stock intake valves you are not gonna' flow more air from a porting job.Or if you have stock exhaust valves,you can't expell more than the valves will allow.I say that when you build a motor you should build the entire motor at the same time,this way all the components are made to be with one another.Also if your cams will not allow the valves to reach the point where they would actually give you a gain,than it's as good as having no cams.And too much smoothness in the exhaust ports can cause a turbulance effect.The exhaust flow never even touches the surface.It merely skims across it.Ever wonder why the Turbonetics T-3 manifold has a hump in the beginning of each runner?It's to prevent the exhaust energy from re-entering the exhaust runner.Well,the same theory applies here.Not enough restriction can cause an adverse effect.Sandpaper flap wheels with a fast and powerfull die grinder(Not a dremel,they suck and burn out quick)is the best stuff to use.I start out with a carbide,than a stone bit,than a sandpaper flap wheel,than a flap wheel with WD-40.For intake side leave out the wd-40 in the end,and make sure you leave it a bit rough

 

[MrBoxx]

I agree with everyone saying carbide burrs. I had never ported anything before I tackled my 14b exhaust housing and O2 sensor housing. A single carbide burr and a grinder took the step off in about 25 minutes. And that was with me just learning how to use the grinder. I'm sure I could do one now in much less time. Same with the O2 housing. I finished it all off with a bit of smoothing with a sanding stone. If I had tried to do it with a Dremel tool, I probably wouldn't have gotten the step gone in under two hours.

 

[carwizard1]

Carbide burrs and a roto-zip! I've done 4 exhaust manifolds, 6 O2 housings, 3 intake mainfolds, and 2 heads. The roto-zip is still running strong. It cuts fast too.

 

[chasin 8's]

I burned up a rotozip in a matter of days.But I also do this for a living,and use it all day long on some days.I spent $300 on my last set of Matco titanium coated carbides.The set of 4 short ones were $120.00

 

[RBurroughs]

I've searched the how-to forums and the whole forum itself.

I'm taking my manifold/turbo off to upgrade my T-25 to a 20G and I want to port the manifold and possibly o2 housing. Do i just get a carving stone for my dremel?

 

[brute]

Go here: http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

Click "Porting" and there are 2 links. One goes to 95 exh. mani. porting, the other to o2 housing porting.

 

[1fsteg]

I did a quick search on Ask Jeeves and found a few links:

http://www.mirage-performance.com/Tech/porting.html

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

They have kits like these from Summit Racing for cheap (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=porting&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp)
I hope this helps some and good luck with the project. you got to tell me how it all works out too, i might have to give it a try.

 

[SinaiTSi]

A die grinder with metal grinding bits would be ideal. I couldn't find metal bits at first for mine, so I just went with stone bits. It works, just not as fast as metal bits. If you try to use the dremel for the whole thing, it will take even longer.

 

[Sinclair159]

What kind of bit would be ideal for porting with an electric die grinder????

 

[Dream On]

Carbide double cut burrs. I got mine off of ebay. You'll only need 1, it'll last a LONG time.

 

[jtxtrmboost]

Second what he (dream on) said "Carbide" for sure. Trust me, it will take you a month to port out anything with a stone bit - and it will take hundreds of them. I am currently porting out a new EVO 3 manifold and learned first hand that cast material will win everytime until it meets carbide material. Save some time, it wills still take a 6 pack (or 2 or 3) but start the process with carbide.

 

[Dream On]

My double cut carbide bit from ebay took that material off a cast 2g manifold so quickly, I think I've ported it too much. And the bit still looks fine.

 

[MrBoxx]

Carbide burrs are awesome. I used one of my uncle's porting kits and his die grinder to port my 14b and O2 housing. It took maybe an hour, start to finish, and it was my first time porting anything. I finished it up with a round stone to smooth everything up.

 

[elementalwindx]

I'm interested in learning how to do my own port work on my heads and I'd like to know what tools you guys use on your own heads and possibly some techniques to do the job. Pictures are very much welcomed! I have a very steady hand when it comes to doing very detailed jobs

 

[groundPork]

If you've not done a lot of this kind of work, you're tendecy will be to concentrate on one particular aspect of the entire job... ie. making the ports bigger or poliching the snot out of the surface, neither of which is a good idea on a 63 head. It's hard to explain... but keep your cutter speed slow, work on using your wrist to roll the grinder in curved parts, and try to lock your wrist and move perfectly laterally when doing flats like the port floor. Do not removemuch material at all! only blend the throat to seat immidiately under the seat, and try to match the port openings to the manifold... to the manifold!... the gasket is merely a guide. Exhaust DOES NOT need to be opened to the gasket size. It flows all too well as it is, any major enlarging on a moderate boost street car will only result in delayed boost, and responce. lightly smooth sharp edges in the chambers, pay for a high quility valve job, and vavle train, and run it!

 

[SlowSpyder]

If removing material use carbide burrs designed for aluminum. Normal carbide burrs will clog when used on aluminum. If using stones, use stones meant for non ferrous metals. 60 grit is good for intake ports while 80 is pretty good for exhaust. As groundpork said keep the rpm's slow, about 7k-10k rpms. As for tooling, use a die grinder that can give you constant torque such as an electric die grinder with a load control. An air die grinder will work but varies upon brand of die grinder.

 

[dnhieu]

porting a head is a science not something you really want to do by hand. besides the stock 4g63 head will get you anywhere you need to go unless your looking into building yourself a 10second car.

 

[elementalwindx]

This car has been over 3 years in the making with slight hicups of changing entire cars (95 GST, to 95 AWD TSi, now to 95 AWD TSi auto w/ 6bolt)

It'll be running the fierra valve train at a 90lb seat pressure with the fp 3x cams, stock valves, 3rd gen revised lifters and of course a magnus mani and hopfully a sherear top mount manifold as I love the way that particular one is designed.

I love to do as much as I can myself and I'd like to look into porting my own head. I already know that a non-ported 1g head can do 9's with the right mani's and other mods, etc. Its just something I want to learn and do.

P.S. Can a power coord dremmel be used? Is there a difference between that and the die grinder?