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Turbo porting [Merged 8-8] turbocharger o2 port

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This turbo I ordered already came gasket matched, how much should I port it or should I just smooth it out a little bit? Turbo picture-
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so the turbo is gasket matched..meaning its ported... so whats the problem???

or do you want to port your o2 housing??? well just make a paper gasket and lay it on the o2 housing (old captain crunch box ftw!) glue it down,then just start porting it..
 
It's not been ported it came cast gasket matched, O2 is already ported.. I was asking if I should take more material off inside the turbine housing.
 
Well I just decided to clean it up and smooth it out.
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Depending on the turbo and your wastegate setup you might need to do some more porting.

Is it internally wastegated? Can you take pics of the wastegate flapper and passage in the turbine housing?
 
Its externally gated and I'm running the wastegate off of the manifold. Pic of new SBR cast manifold if anyone is interested also.
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Im going to be ordering a Garett Big T28 from exteme psi and I was wondering if it is really worth it to port the turbo for the extra $90 bucks.. and what does it help on I hear all you get is early spool..
 
oh. i see, Well, my goals is between 300-350hp...but cleary this turbo maxes out at 340hp. The mods i currently have are boost controller walbro 190 fuel pump.. and 57mm throttle body...and miscellaneous stuff like gauges and turbo timer,,, i do plan on going with the apexi w2 sport exhaust and downpipe..


Do i need to upgrade my injectors to hit at least 300hp??
 
oh. i see, Well, my goals is between 300-350hp...but cleary this turbo maxes out at 340hp. The mods i currently have are boost controller walbro 190 fuel pump.. and 57mm throttle body...and miscellaneous stuff like gauges and turbo timer,,, i do plan on going with the apexi w2 sport exhaust and downpipe..


Do i need to upgrade my injectors to hit at least 300hp??

Imo Defiantly will need to get bigger injectors and a better clutch. It will start slipping before 300hp.
 
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I do plan on upgrading to the exedy stage 1 clutch but before i do, need a tranny rebuild :cry: Sometimes my car likes to pop out of first gear and third gear grinds.,.
 
I think it would be worth it especially since your just getting it. If you dont and then want to later then you will be dealing with alot of time and money. I will have mine ported when I rebuild it. $90 sounds kind of expensive though. I could have my 16g ported for around 35. are you also getting it clipped for that price??
 
I think you should keep the $95, get yourself a die grinder and try doing the porting yourself. It'll take some patience but you'll be more satisfied knowing you did it yourself. Plus, you save some money and now you can also port your exhaust manifold and o2 sensor housing!
 
Personally, I think it a waste. You won't see much noticeable gain. For the amount of money you're spending, I'd say get something with a bit more potential. Ever popular these days is the 50trim. Now if you were saying that you were concerned about say boost creep, then porting the o2 housing or better yet, getting a tubular one would be my suggestion.

In all honesty, what is your money worth to you? I'd rather spend the money on supporting modifications to maximize the potential of the turbo, rather than try to gain a tiny bit of spool with an already small, quick spooling turbo or trying to gain a few extra hp.
 
Agreed. Has anyone ever shown a difference in power and spool from using the sealing ring with the 2g manifold and running a t28? The smaller the port from the collector to the turbo, the faster spool will be anyway.

If you have a 16g, then the benefit of porting the 2g exhaust manifold to match and porting the step alone on the 16g turbo is not having to buy an evo3 exhaust manifold. But running an evo3 manifold and sealing ring with your 16g upgrade is still better, IMHO. Considering there's not a sudden expansion in the exhaust system at a point where you want high velocity and low turbulance, where a 2g manifold and port work on a 16g turbine housing would cause ths. $90 for porting a 16g turbo will give you a used evo3 exhaust manifold anyway. And the sealing ring can be had, even made, for very cheap.
 
Im planning on keeping this just a street car and I mostly drive it in winter, I didnt want to go over 350hp or 400hp with it due to one being the i hear the stock internals can only handle maximum of 400hp! And i didnt want to go with the 16g because i wanted something direct bolt on with no mods, and i already worked out some figures although the evoIII16g is only $569 Ill need another $160 for the install kit and it all works out to being the same as the Big T28... besides i been doing a lot of research and those two particular turbos have practically the same potential...unless someone can convince me otherwise...

Well, I think i wont get it ported doesnt sound like its worth it... and i still need intercooler:cry:
 
Im planning on keeping this just a street car...
Well, I think i wont get it ported doesn't sound like its worth it... and i still need intercooler.
I bought the FP Big28 unported. I drove for a year on stock fuel system and appreciated having a turbo that spools fast and holds boost to redline. I think it's an awesome street turbo.

I thoroughly agree with talonDSMerr in post #7 because that's what I did. When the time came for the next phase of upgrades I bought an electric die grinder and carbide burr. I read all the threads I could find on porting and did it myself. It's easy, time consuming and fun. Once I got started I wanted to port everything. I ported the exhaust manifold, cleaned up the tubular SS o2 housing and even opened up the small end of the eBay Injen copy intake.

What difference did porting the turbo make? I couldn't tell you because I followed up with DSMlink, 650cc injectors and FMIC. When I finished the project there was a Big Difference. Save money on the Big28 and do the porting yourself.
 
IMO porting or replacing the o2 housing will make a bigger difference as long as you have the exhaust behind it to make it worthwhile but porting the turbo is more about controlling creep which factors largely into performance because you can set your boost closer to the max your current setup can handle without worrying about blowing it up, for $90 its cheap insurance that will net you a slightly faster spool.

You also mentioned 16g turbos, there is not a whole lot of extra gain from going this route but you will have a higher potential and even they are slightly cheaper even with the install kits plus I believe there is a group buy right now that is offering them for 499. If you're worried about the install, don't be, There really isn't extra work with the 16g and you will be spending far more time cursing your oil feed line with either turbo than the extra time a 16g takes. If you're smart enough to install a new turbo you're smart enough to install a 16g and you get solid lower intercooler pipes which is a big plus.
 
With the mods I have sitting on the car now, what potential hp could i reach or be around? Do any of you know how much hp per psi it is?? I hear 15psi is the magic number to not exceed and be safe at this point in time with my mods..
 
Your mods don't show an upgraded BOV so you must have the stock plastic 2g BOV. Don't try boosting over stock psi until you have a better BOV. The stock 2g unit leaks profusely over stock boost and your boost gauge won't read what the turbo is actually pushing because the pressure is leaking out the BOV. It's likely to be over spooling the turbo and you won't know it.

It had a MBC and boost gauge on the stock 2g BOV at one time. I thought I had boost set at 14psi. When I installed a 1g BOV and took it for a test drive I instantly pegged the boost gauge at it's max 20psi. I could have destroyed my turbo.

14-15 psi is generally the max safe boost for stock fuel systems. You may be able to tweak it a little higher with your fuel pump but I wouldn't do that without some way to log the ECU. At least get yourself a pocketlogger so you can have some idea of what effect your mods are having on your engine.

A better BOV is a must. A 1g BOV is all that's needed for the majority of DSM's. They're reliable, relatively inexpensive and hold boost to 20psi without modification.

Couldn't say what HP you can expect. Bench racing is discouraged here.
 
hmm.. weird I was sure I updated my profile I do have a after market BOV its the HKS Recirculated. Guess Ill go re update it never stuck the last time i did darn...
 
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