Changing Cams, Timing Belt and Head Studs?

[1997hciv]

I am in the process of changing my timing belt and I want to replace my cams and change the head studs to ARP's during the belt change. My question is what would be the best route to do these things. I am looking to just swap the studs one at a time without removing the head. Should I put the cams in when the belt is out or wait till the belt is reinstalled before messing with the cams? Thanks for any input in advance as I will be doing this according to the VFAQ.

 

[gofer]

I am in the process of changing my timing belt and I want to replace my cams and change the head studs to ARP's during the belt change. My question is what would be the best route to do these things. I am looking to just swap the studs one at a time without removing the head. Should I put the cams in when the belt is out or wait till the belt is reinstalled before messing with the cams? Thanks for any input in advance as I will be doing this according to the VFAQ.

I wouldn't replace the head bolts until you replace your stock headgasket, just leave them in there until you blow the gasket. Then once you pull the head and put on a different gasket put in your ARP head studs.
Heres a cam install "how to"... Installing Cams into a 4G63 - My Pro Street

 

[knochgoon24]

I wouldn't replace the head bolts until you replace your stock headgasket, just leave them in there until you blow the gasket. Then once you pull the head and put on a different gasket put in your ARP head studs.
Heres a cam install "how to"... Installing Cams into a 4G63 - My Pro Street

I'm not sure why you'd do that. Not everyone has time for unexpected downtime. I really wouldn't want to blow a headgasket at the track and then have to pay to have it towed somewhere.

Personally, I'd pull the cams, install the studs, install the new cams, install the timing belt, then put it all back together.

With the cams out, you'll have a bit more room to get the studs in.

I ran 23psi with much higher accidental spikes on whatever composite headgasket was installed in my car when I got it.

 

[BogusSVO]

personally, if I was going to all that effort, I would install a new HG too, how many miles are on the one now? how many heat/cooling cycles?
check the head for flat..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

also with upgrading the cams I would want to at the min, check the valvespring to make sure they are not tired/weak.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

also this would be a good time to check guides and install new valve stem seals.

you did not say how many miles are on the engine/head/valvetrain parts.
If the head has be recently rebuilt, then you may not need to go thu all this

and you may want to do this oil port mod...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

 

[gofer]

I'm not sure why you'd do that. Not everyone has time for unexpected downtime. I really wouldn't want to blow a headgasket at the track and then have to pay to have it towed somewhere.

Personally, I'd pull the cams, install the studs, install the new cams, install the timing belt, then put it all back together.

With the cams out, you'll have a bit more room to get the studs in.

I ran 23psi with much higher accidental spikes on whatever composite headgasket was installed in my car when I got it.

Lets assume his car has anywhere from 90k to 120k on the stock hg and its never been replaced. Those hold bolts might be stretched or the head might be warped a bit but its holding together just fine right now. If he replaces those head bolts with the ARP studs, even if he does torque them correctly, something might not seal like it should and the hg will blow anyway. I don't have time for downtime like that either, even if I did I hate seeing my baby sit.

I say do the cams while the timing belts off and replace all the timing parts, then only let the motor see 21-22psi of boost. Once the head gasket goes or for whatever reason you've got to pull the head, do the ARP studs and new hg then and turn up the boost.

personally, if I was going to all that effort, I would install a new HG too, how many miles are on the one now? how many heat/cooling cycles?
check the head for flat..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

also with upgrading the cams I would want to at the min, check the valvespring to make sure they are not tired/weak.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

also this would be a good time to check guides and install new valve stem seals.

you did not say how many miles are on the engine/head/valvetrain parts.
If the head has be recently rebuilt, then you may not need to go thu all this

and you may want to do this oil port mod...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

Thats A LOT of downtime!!!!

 

[BogusSVO]

depends on the shop you use....

once the head is off, takig the head apart, checking the guides, removing the seals, cleaning the casting, do the oil port mod, surface the head, NO valve job, and install the new seals, test the springs(replace if needed) and spring the head back up.... ohhh.. it can be done in about 4 hours.... IF your a bud of mine

but thu most machine shops.. figure about 3 days for them to have your head

 

[Tanro]

You can allways call ahead and ask to be put on the wait list for same day turn around.

I usually do this when I am trying to get stuff done over the weekend. Call the previous friday or monday. Drop it off friday after work. Pick it up Saturday Morning or By lunchtime saturday. I'm sure if you called ahead most shops will be able to get a head job done by lunch time if you drop it off in the morning.

 

[gofer]

depends on the shop you use....

once the head is off, takig the head apart, checking the guides, removing the seals, cleaning the casting, do the oil port mod, surface the head, NO valve job, and install the new seals, test the springs(replace if needed) and spring the head back up.... ohhh.. it can be done in about 4 hours.... IF your a bud of mine

but thu most machine shops.. figure about 3 days for them to have your head

You can allways call ahead and ask to be put on the wait list for same day turn around.

I usually do this when I am trying to get stuff done over the weekend. Call the previous friday or monday. Drop it off friday after work. Pick it up Saturday Morning or By lunchtime saturday. I'm sure if you called ahead most shops will be able to get a head job done by lunch time if you drop it off in the morning.

Thats all fine and dandy, you two should move on down to socal and see if you can get headwork done faster than 2 weeks.

BogusSVO. There aren't many reputable DSM shops around San Diego so I've been looking around. I walked into one on Saturday explaining what I wanted done to the head (bronze valve guides, port/polish, resurface, etc.) I tried explaining to them the Oil Port mod and the dude looked at me like i was retarded... To say the least, I didn't leave it up to that shop to do the work I needed done to the head.

Back to the OP. I suggest you leave the head on the block and don't replace the head bolts with ARP studs until you pull the head and replace the hg. Just do the timing belt, and while your at it the cams.

 

[1997hciv]

The car has 122k. I will be doing the work myself because I dont have the money to have another person to do it nor do I trust other people working on my car. I thought about replacing the hg with a stock one but then changed my mind do to not wanting to screw anything up. I have not heard of any issues replacing the headstuds one at a time. Thanks for the links as well. I will check it all out but my way of thinking is if all this stuff is worn then I would just rather save money and put a 6 bolt in.