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2G Car turns off while going into neutral

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DSM NE

Proven Member
88
3
Oct 21, 2020
Omaha, Nebraska
97 gst

So whenever I shift into neutral coming into a stop either at a red light or stop sign, the car will feel like it looses fuel and turn off.

The fiav was deleted since it idled really high before at 1800rpm. People have told me it could be because my car is tuned on safc 2 running on 550 injectors fuel pump isn’t leaking and all injectors are firing.

Any answers/responses are much appreciated

I should also add I have replaced iac, biss screw and tps sensor with harness
 
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Are you venting your BOV to the atmosphere with the OEM MAF? Do you have a lightened flywheel? Those tend to attribute to this. What changed on the car before it started happening?

Here's a good thread on the BISS screw, with a link to the VFAQ for the 2g adjustment:
 
The bov is not recirculated and I’m pretty sure the car does have a lighter flywheel
Two very common causes for stalling. Wouldn't be too difficult to try recirculating to see if that helps the situation. If you go with ECMlink or another tuning solution that allows you to run speed density you can remove the OEM MAF from the equation and vent the BOV without issue. Not everyone who vents their BOV on the stock MAF has the stalling issue but it is fairly common.
 
Two very common causes for stalling. Wouldn't be too difficult to try recirculating to see if that helps the situation. If you go with ECMlink or another tuning solution that allows you to run speed density you can remove the OEM MAF from the equation and vent the BOV without issue. Not everyone who vents their BOV on the stock MAF has the stalling issue but it is fairly common.
The car only shuts off when heading to a stop if it’s like around 30-20 mph you shift into neutral and the car feels like it cuts fuel I tried raising the rpms so it doesn’t die so easily but even if they rise to 900 they slowly drop back to 750
 
The car only shuts off when heading to a stop if it’s like around 30-20 mph you shift into neutral and the car feels like it cuts fuel I tried raising the rpms so it doesn’t die so easily but even if they rise to 900 they slowly drop back to 750
Yup, that sounds a lot like what others have described for years with vented BOVs - well that and BISS and FIAV issues. Lightened flywheels tend to quickly drop RPMs when coming to a stop in neutral. When you say you tried raising the RPMs, how did you go about doing that?
 
Yup, that sounds a lot like what others have described for years with vented BOVs - well that and BISS and FIAV issues. Lightened flywheels tend to quickly drop RPMs when coming to a stop in neutral. When you say you tried raising the RPMs, how did you go about doing that?
Biss screw also this just happened after car was done with head rebuild went for a test drive and car shut off someone told me it’s because it’s tuned on afc and before proper tuning it was running really rich.

when you slowly shift into neutral then the car won’t die but if you do it normally like in any other car it will die could this of been caused by deleting the fiav would I need a whole new throttle body? The car never had these issues when I first bought it none at all
 
Yes sir car has no boost leaks no vacuum leaks, doesn’t leak oil, coolant ,fuel I check the fuel pump that wasn’t leaking all injectors seem to be firing,

that’s why I have come down to three options which are remove safc 2 maybe or get a new throttle body and recirculate bov?
 
Yes sir car has no boost leaks no vacuum leaks, doesn’t leak oil, coolant ,fuel I check the fuel pump that wasn’t leaking all injectors seem to be firing,

that’s why I have come down to three options which are remove safc 2 maybe or get a new throttle body and recirculate bov?
Well you'll want some type of tuning device with the larger injectors and pump, so just removing the SAFC isn't the solution, at least not until you have a better tuning device, like ECMlink.

If you didn't notice any leaks at the throttle body then it probably isn't the cause, but you might not always hear the air leaking into the intake through the seals when doing a boost leak test. It's always a good idea to replace all the seals in the TB if it hasn't been done already. And I'd always recirc the BOV if you're not running speed density anyway - that's an easy one to try, and even if it doesn't solve the problem it's the right way to do it until you get speed density set up.

Did you do the boost leak test yourself? Or did someone else do it and tell you it's not leaking?
 
Well you'll want some type of tuning device with the larger injectors and pump, so just removing the SAFC isn't the solution, at least not until you have a better tuning device, like ECMlink.

If you didn't notice any leaks at the throttle body then it probably isn't the cause, but you might not always hear the air leaking into the intake through the seals when doing a boost leak test. It's always a good idea to replace all the seals in the TB if it hasn't been done already. And I'd always recirc the BOV if you're not running speed density anyway - that's an easy one to try, and even if it doesn't solve the problem it's the right way to do it until you get speed density set up.

Did you do the boost leak test yourself? Or did someone else do it and tell you it's not leaking?
I did boost leak test 3-4 times when I had high idle and shop recently did one
 
I did boost leak test 3-4 times when I had high idle and shop recently did one
I only ask because boost leaks are a very common cause too. I found one at the TB one time, at the IC another time, and even one at an injector insulator. They're not always easy to find and can be a real pain in the ass. I've gone through so much soap and water trying to track them down, as you can't always hear them. Anyway, sounds like you've done that already so the other the other suggestions still stand.
 
I only ask because boost leaks are a very common cause too. I found one at the TB one time, at the IC another time, and even one at an injector insulator. They're not always easy to find and can be a real pain in the ass. I've gone through so much soap and water trying to track them down, as you can't always hear them. Anyway, sounds like you've done that already so the other the other suggestions still stand.
Ok well my main question is could the fiav delete te cause this? And what would you recommend doing
 




try these links.
 
Ok well my main question is could the fiav delete te cause this? And what would you recommend doing
I think I've given a few recommendations already if you look back through my posts. Deleting the FIAV typically doesn't cause this by itself, but when you deleted it you also replaced a few others things that could certainly be contributing to the stalling (replaced iac, biss screw and tps sensor with harness). You also mentioned you're venting the BOV, which I suggested you recirc - that would be my first action if I were you. If you haven't rebuilt the throttle body, I'd do that. I'd also run through some of the tips on fixing idle surge , as those can also contribute to stalling.
 
Ha, I just linked to that thread in my reply too.
 
I think I've given a few recommendations already if you look back through my posts. Deleting the FIAV typically doesn't cause this by itself, but when you deleted it you also replaced a few others things that could certainly be contributing to the stalling (replaced iac, biss screw and tps sensor with harness). You also mentioned you're venting the BOV, which I suggested you recirc - that would be my first action if I were you. If you haven't rebuilt the throttle body, I'd do that. I'd also run through some of the tips on fixing idle surge , as those can also contribute to stalling.
Welp my balance shaft has said bye and somehow hasn’t destroyed my motor could this of been the cause for the car dying? Also I noticed rattle/vibration and stopped driving immediately I plan on getting the delete kit
 




try these links.
Welp my balance shaft has said bye and somehow hasn’t destroyed my motor could this of been the cause for the car dying? Also I noticed rattle/vibration and stopped driving immediately I plan on getting the delete kit
 
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