Car stalls when i push in the cluth

[awddarrell]

`Hey guys, so i have looked through about 5 or 6 of the other threads that have close to the same title, but the problems seem very dissimilar to what mine is.

Like the title says, my GST stalls when I press in the clutch at cruising speed in any gear.

I have checked my battery cables and they are tight, i have checked the plugs on the TPS, MAF, INJECTORS, INJECTORS. ECT.ECT.

Recently I changed out my slave cylinder, it is bled properly I had the local shop check it for me, the clutch pedal has a lot of play in it, as in i have to press the pedal in about half way or more for the clutch to engage. so maybe the clutch needs to be replaced.

So my ? is will my clutch being that worn down cause the car to stall when the pedal is pressed in.

and also i started slowing down with the car in gear still, as in i am going 55, slow down to where the RPM level gets to around 1000-900, and then press in the pedal, and it does not stall. i have not tried pulling it out of gear without the pedal yet to see if it stalls that way.

I just wanna know if i need to go ahead and buy a clutch or not cause it still engages fine except for it vibrates a little bit when I take off?

thanks guys Darrell

 

[staztrx250]

well do you have and un-recirculated bov?
that would be my first gusse
otherwise do a blt and a tune up

and check for crankwalk!!!!
this is a symptom of crankwalk. If you push your clutch in at idle and it dies or revs down you probably have crank walk and that =

 

[gofer]

Its not the clutch, its the ECU keeping the injectors on even when your off the throttle on decel. Two things can cause this, a faulty idle switch or a big intake. You can fix BOTH of the issues if you run ECMLink, which you are, so post a log of it happening and read the following...

1. Faulty Idle Switch - Pull your TPS connector off the TPS and count the pins, if there are only (3) then you have a 1g TPS installed so you'll want to "Simulate Idle Switch" through link. If you have (4) pins still "Simulate Idle Switch" through link because the idle switch thats built into the 2g TPS might not be working correctly.
2. Big Intake - Having a big intake on there you get more air going into the engine. On decel the ECU see's GOBS of air coming in even when your off the throttle and tries to richen your mixture up by keeping the injectors on. Enable the "Idle Air Clamp" feature in v3 to "tune" it out so the ECU doesn't keep the injectors on during decel.

Do the above and post a log of it happening, be sure to capture AirflowPerRev, RPM, and IdleSw in your new log too.

 

[awddarrell]

I do not have link in the eclipse it is in my TSI, far as the crankwalk, it does not do it when I slow down in gear, and push in the clutch at around 1000rpm also i just changed my water pump and alt. belt too, if it was too tight could this happen?

I have been getting a belt squeal, a lot too when it is cold, couldnt tell which belt it was though.

 

[gofer]

What year is the car and what type of throttle body do you have on it? The belt squeal is more than likely from the alternator, just make sure when you press on the belt with your thumb it has SOME play if you press on it and it doesn't move the thing is WAY too tight. The squeal could be coming from the alternator itself as well, if its a rebuilt Duralast then they are known for being bad out of the box.

 

[RT-AWD]

Sounds like a massive vacuum leak. Does it just straight up die? If you start the car (in neutral) do you have to keep it running or else it'll stall?
crankwalk would lower your rpm for no reason (still on the gas) when turning to the left.

 

[staztrx250]

I do not have link in the eclipse it is in my TSI, far as the crankwalk, it does not do it when I slow down in gear, and push in the clutch at around 1000rpm also i just changed my water pump and alt. belt too, if it was too tight could this happen?

I have been getting a belt squeal, a lot too when it is cold, couldnt tell which belt it was though.

is your bov recirculated?

 

[awddarrell]

It is a 98, has a mitsu (O.E.) TB and TPS, I can start it in Neutral, and it will stay running, it is just that initial drop in RPM, when I push in the clutch, I def feel like it is not Crank walk, just based on what I have read here so far.

the belt was Def way to tight, it was like a tight rope guess I gotta watch my amazing popeye forearms haha.

does anyone think a clutch could have anything to do with that, new slave cylider, extreme pedal play before engagement, maybe the clutch plate is worn down so much,? IDK

When I am going, it seems like it runs just like it should, perfectly! it is killing me, I guess I need to do the BLT cause I did just put on the new 16g. about a month ago and it has been running great until this morning.

 

[staztrx250]

Sounds like a massive vacuum leak. Does it just straight up die? If you start the car (in neutral) do you have to keep it running or else it'll stall?
crankwalk would lower your rpm for no reason (still on the gas) when turning to the left.

and when pushing the clutch in!! there a a lot of symptoms of crank walk lets not go there!

if your bov isn't recirculated this is the problem 100%

the turbo system is a close system if you vet your bov into the air then your motor is getting less air then the maf thinks getting causing it too stall...

you can't have an open bov with out the link or something to compensate this

 

[awddarrell]

Sorry yeah BOV is Recirculated. has a 1g BOV ,

 

[Absit]

When was the last time you adjusted your BISS?

 

[gofer]

Injector size and what are you tuning it with?

 

[awddarrell]

I haven't, this sounds like something, because yesterday, I taped the throttle on the TB and it stuck just a little bit going back. I did also considered the BISS screw but it kinda did not register in my mind.

stock injectors and i am not tuning with anything right now it has stock ecu, running 15lbs, I do have a glowshift boost guage, and GREDDY PROFEC B II BC, with an EVOIII 16g, and atmospheric WG o2 dump.

I do have SAFCII to install in it I just haven't yet.

 

[awddarrell]

just a quick update on this thread. the clutch is bad it is not disengaging so it is at a friends shop they are gonna put in a new clutch. since i dont have time to do it with school/work

 

[gofer]

just a quick update on this thread. the clutch is bad it is not disengaging so it is at a friends shop they are gonna put in a new clutch. since i dont have time to do it with school/work

Just because it isn't disengaging doesn't make it bad, it could be a pedal adjustment.

Heres a great write-up for it.

Clutch Pedal Adjustment​

 

[awddarrell]

Thanks gofer. my buddy who is working on it pulled it today and said it is trashed, the new clutch will be in on Monday.

but hopefully this thread can help someone in the future,

 

[gofer]

Is the clutch old or did it fail prematurely? It could have been a adjustment issue and since it was never fixed it killed the clutch. Make sure you adjust it properly after the install or else you'll kill this one as well.

 

[awddarrell]

the clutch had fused, there was a lot of uneven wear on it, but also after having the new clutch installed, they started the car and it continued to die when pushing in the clutch, we looked at it and the crank did walk a little bit every time we pushed in the clutch. we could see the crank pully moving out a little bit each time. so now the engine has to be pulled, and taken apart to check and see if it can be fixed. lukily i have another car and it is an AWD and i can use a lot of the eclipse parts to get the Talon going again. but the clutch was bad as well