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Car dies when I push clutch in

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THEKILLERWHALE

10+ Year Contributor
90
0
Mar 28, 2011
San Diego, California
Okay I have done some looking around but I don't really know what to type in to search for. What I have tried doesn't seem to be working

I am having an issue, if I'm coming to a stop and push the clutch in to put it in neutral ( it's worse if I'm still rolling) the Rpms dive to about 200 Rpms. Then recover, it's actually died a couple times, also with reverse, if I pull up throw it in neutral,
Then right Into reverse it will die unless I give it a lot of gas, again, the Rpms just dive.

I think last time I had this problem I just upd the idle to avoid it but I know that's not the proper fix, idle for the 2g is 750 I know, so with stock cams
That should stay at 750, what's another option, or maybe the proper fix?

Btw, FINALLY got link on the way so hopefully that will aid my diagnosis skills, since they are poor LOL

Thanks guys

:hellyeah:
 
i would imagine if i had a fried ics it would give me more problems then ONLY when pushing clutch in

its only when the car is moving and i clutch and dont put in gear
if the car is sitting still i can idle and clutch all day

its pretty much if the rpms are above 1000 and i clutch, if i just let it drop back to normally, its like it doesnt catch and stop at 750 like it should, it keeps going to about 200-300 then recovers.

and yes im recirculated
 
I would definitely get a boost leak test performed. Ics is a good thing as well to check. What you are saying is when you clutch in it falls past idle point, then picks back up. And sometimes doesn't even do That Just dies. Are you noticing any performance changes? Get a blt done.
 
Yeah I have a boost gauge seems okay during. And yeah that's what I meant. It falls past the idle point. I don't know where I could be leaking that would cause that, cause I have had a boost leak before and there totally different problems.
 
I noticed in your profile your running and act lightweight flywheel. This is a fairly common problem with lightweight flywheels. Did this problem seem to start after you put the flywheel in? A friend of mine has this same exact problem and it started right after he put in an act flywheel. It could also be a bad isc or vacuum/boost leak as well though.
 
Oh do I know if it's the ics? Can that be tested? And I noticed on my boost gauge it drops between -8 and -12 when it happens but that's just while the Rpms are dropping in which case it should happen. I'm about 100% sure there isn't a boost leak. But what vacuum leak would cause that? Any specific I should check? Should I just buy another ics and see if it helps?

And Idk if it started after the flywheel it was in when I bought the car. It's not unavoidable it's just kinda an annoying issue. It's worse if your rolling in reverse with the clutch in too. I just upd the idle to 900 to give a little more room so it atleast won't die. I would really like to figure the issue out tho.
 
Oh do I know if it's the ics? Can that be tested? And I noticed on my boost gauge it drops between -8 and -12 when it happens but that's just while the Rpms are dropping in which case it should happen. I'm about 100% sure there isn't a boost leak. But what vacuum leak would cause that? Any specific I should check? Should I just buy another ics and see if it helps?

And Idk if it started after the flywheel it was in when I bought the car. It's not unavoidable it's just kinda an annoying issue. It's worse if your rolling in reverse with the clutch in too. I just upd the idle to 900 to give a little more room so it atleast won't die. I would really like to figure the issue out tho.

Since that is a pretty low vac reading I would put my money on the boost leak. It sounds just like a bov not being recirculated properly with the same symptoms. You just need to do a solid boost leak test.

And a vacuum leak IS a boost leak, they are just two different ways of saying them. (Vac leak is more for naturally aspirated applications.)

I've been sure about not having boost leaks as well and found some fun stuff leaking in my throttle body, bov gasket and cracked vac lines. :rolleyes:
 
Okay I figured it out, after hours of laboring and research to diagnose the problem ( and by that I mean I was driving home today and suddenly got the urge to "let's see what happens if I do this" soooo, I pushed the Clutch in and threw it in neutral ASAP then let the clutch back out and it drops perfectly to idle, ever so gracefully. So it's clutch related, whatever happens when you hold the clutch in is causing it to fall further then the idle mark.

So, what could be affecting the idle that holding the clutch in causes? Or is that just something that's natural for my upgrades for whatever reason (which I doubt)?
 
How much of an RPM drop are you talking about, a small drop could simply be an alternator issue.
 
Since you bought the car with the clutch and flywheel already installed I assume you don't know if the flywheel was stepped before it was intsalled.? Some guys don't step lightweight flywheels but if its not within spec it could do very weird things. It could also be a sign of crankwalk all though its not as common as most might think on a 2gb
 
Okay, well it has a 6bolt swap, so I'm not worried about crankwalk.

And no it doesn't drop when I push the clutch in, in neutral. Only of I'm rolling and clutch after being at a higher rpm than idle, and keep the clutch compressed. If I just put in neutral and take foot of clutch works perfect
 
The car is also freshly rebuild so everything in the motor should be tight and 100%

It only drops about 100 when clutch is depressed in idle, then when I let off it recovers, from what I hear that's normal.

Still have a problem with clutch depressed while rolling tho and it dying
 
sounds like something is dragging on the motor and the ics is not compensating for it. i know when i roll up to a light the car will idle above 1K. 5- 10 secs. after coming to a complete stop, only then will it drop back to 750. not sure what controls that but whatever sensor that is sounds like the problem. whatever tells the ics to stay open till speed = 0.

idle switch may be what i'm thinking of..
 
Ok, not trying to thread jack but i am having the same issue so i thought i would pass on some advice. I have just pulled my ISC and found a bad coil. Now i have found a driving trick that will help with proper rpm settle. While slowing down, delay pushing in the clutch for as long as possible(about 1k-1.5k). RPMs seem to settle much better this way. Not saying this is a way around fixing your car but its just somthing that could hold u over till u get it fixed.

Pretty straped for cash myself hence this is how i am now coming to a stop.:(
 
Yeah that's my exact problem, died 3 times in traffic today.

Idk if you tried this but if you throw it in neutral and let off the clutch it will settle correctly, just an addition tip for those on my boat who can't seem to figure this problem out

This starting to get annoying tho LOL

Need a fix!
 
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