pushing in clutch = car dies?

[shaunmy]

i am going to play with this tonight and tryto work it out but i am just wondering what is causing this?

i just bought a gvr4, and it has a 2600 in it. the slave cylinder rod was not extended so when i come from a stop i cant let the clutch more than a half inch out before it disengages... from what i hear that is normal with the act's. but that is not the problem im worried about. when the car is in any gear, 1-5, R, and neutral, if i press down on the clutch, the car drops from idle down to 0, stalling out. its really funny that it does it in neutral. if it only did it in 1-5 and r, i would think that its not engaging all the way and the transmission is dragging it down and thats causing it to stall out. but with it doing that in neutral too, i am stumped.

 

[donmagicjuan]

First of all, many people will tell you that the slave cylinder extension rod is a band-aid type fix for an underlying problem with the clutch system. As long as the flywheel was stepped correctly for the new clutch, the hydraulic system was bled, and the clutch pedal freeplay was set properly, you should have no need for a longer rod.

When the car dies, does it do so like it would if you simply turned the key to OFF? Also, does it die if you depress the clutch in gear at an elevated RPM while letting the engine coast down, or does it only do it when starting from idle speed? I'm wondering if it's an electrical problem and not something with the clutch itself.

Lastly, please update your vehicle profile so that we don't have to ask what other mods you have done to the car.

 

[shaunmy]

it slowly dies... like something is dragging it down. it didnt seem to really do it as bed when say im going 25mph and shift up to 3rd, it didnt seem like it would die then. i cant definitively say though since i only put about 10 miles on the car before it went down again. car is stock besides this 2600 and supposedly an act flywheel...

 

[donmagicjuan]

Something is definitely not adjusted/machined right if the clutch is starting to engage at only 1/2" from the floor. You should be able to lift the clutch 1/2" and still be able to shift through all the gears with the car running.

 

[Talonman92]

I know that when I disconnect the battery from the car it resets the ECU. Everytime I do this my car likes to die when i put the clutch in untill the ECU "learns" how to control everything again. Is that similar to what is going on here? Does the car drive normally as long as you are giving it gas and stuff?

I have a completely stock car so its probably somethign to do with your aftermarket clutch. Sorry wish I could help more.

 

[92awddsm]

As for the clutch letting out low, try adjusting the clutch pedal. I will assume the gvr4 is the same as the 1g t/e/l so scroll down to clutch adjust ment on this link. It will tell you how to adjust it for a 1g. The pics might not match the gvr4 but the process is the same.

As for the stalling, check the ground strap to the tb, check the closed throttle swich for continuity to ground when the throttle is closed, and set your base idle speed and timing. If it is electrical, this will rule a lot of the common problems out.

 

[toybreaker]

Gvr4's came with a 6 bolt motor, so crankwalk shouldn't be a factor.....

However,...

Many of them have been modded within an inch of their life and beyond, and become recipients of back alley/shade tree throw a hyundai motor in there engine swaps.

It's entirely possible that there's a hyundai/non turbo motor lurking in your engine compartment. I've seen it a couple of times now. People blow up the six bolt, or stroker or whatever the fad is this week, and then just throw in a boneyard hyundai/non turbo motor to sell it. The higher compression makes it feel fast, but it won't live long....

When pushing the clutch in loads the motor down, especially in neutral, I would check crankshaft endplay.

You don't have to get all scientifical to start. Just put a socket on the crank bolt in the center of the harmonic dampner, and pry the crank back with a prybar (gently) against the socket and the body. (please don't pry on the harmonic dampner itself, you could damage it quite easily) Then have some one push in the clutch while you watch.

Visible movement is bad, and will require investigation. The endplay spec is very small, and would be hard to see. The motors with bad cranks/crankwalk issues are usually quite visible...

I've seen a couple of vr4's with crankwalk, and it doesn't suprise me anymore, but the first one sure did.

Good luck, and please let us know what you find.

 

[crazyzx9rguy]

I would belive it's crankwalk if ti if high milage and stock cracnk bearings, mine did 215,00miles. Mine would die like that too, rod bearings looked like thrustbearings
Check crank end play
Your not going to be able to lift pedal 1/2 way and shift through the gears mine wouldn't till i got the extended slave rod.

 

[donmagicjuan]

First of all, I said 1/2 inch, not halfway. Secondly, please reread my first post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151004251&postcount=2
The extension rod is a hack that only covers up another problem.

 

[crazyzx9rguy]

The rod worked for me new clutch 2600 braided line and adj. shift cables
Now it engages further of of the floor,whatever...
I would belive it's crank walk ,or a sensor maybe,but it dosen't sound like a sensor,cause it will do it in neutral, sound like mine was doing ...crankwalking

 

[spyderturbo007]

First of all, I said 1/2 inch, not halfway. Secondly, please reread my first post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151004251&postcount=2
The extension rod is a hack that only covers up another problem.

Please, listen to Don, he knows what he's talking about. His assesment of your problem is completely correct.