Car jerks under boost popped dip stick

[Eclipse37]

Ok guys ive been having this problem for a while the car drives great 90% of the time then I try to get on it anywhere from 0-9 pounds im ok but if I try to get to 10+ pounds of boost the car hits the wall it starts to hesitate and won't push over 10+ pounds of boost. I mean if im not boosting the car it runs great you wouldn't even know it had a problem. Also another thing is some days it's better some it's not it's really weird. One day it was acting better and it let me hit 14 pounds of boost I was boosting like that for 20 seconds maybe and my oil dipstick shot up and splattered oil all over the under side of the hood. Im pretty sure my PCV isn't working properly ive also just replaced the spark plugs and wires. They aren't NGK 6es but im going to go to auto zone and get those tomorrow and see if that helps. Ive read other threads but I don't think that plugs and wires or fuel cut is my problem in this case. Fuel cut maybe but ive had 0 misfire engine codes. The car is completely stock besides the greddy type S bov and a cone filter. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

 

[kenamond]

Go to NAPA for the plugs. I don't think AutoZone has them. $2/each at NAPA. Gap them to 0.028" (pick up a plug gapper while you're there if you don't own one, and if you don't know how to gap them or unsure, just ask the guy; he might gap them all for you right then and there).

Call your nearest Mitsu dealership and order a 95-99 Eclipse GST or GSX PCV valve. The AutoZone/Carquest valves won't seal. The OEM/Mitsu valve is ~$8. That should help your dipstick issue. Make sure you have the VC breather line connected to the intake pipe. If you haven't done a compression test lately, check it. If the rings are really worn, the excessive blowby can also pop your dipstick.

Then build yourself a boost leak tester and do a boost leak test. Then fix all of the leaks. My guess is that you have bad boost leaks. If you don't have a boost guage, you might think about building a boost leak tester with a gauge on it so you can tell how much pressure you add and how slowly it leaks down. If you get all the leaks, it should hold 20psi and leak down 1psi every 3-5 seconds or slower.

Good luck!

 

[Eclipse37]

I have an aftermarket boost gauge and I already tested for boost leaks I don't have any. I had a huge one from the greddy BOV not sealing correctly but I fixed it. As far as the pistons it could be possible but im pretty sure the dipstick is from the PCV valuve. I will get the new plugs and the PCV and see if it fixes it. If not I have no clue what else it could be.

 

[zhjiln]

Bad pcv..... And do not get the autozone pcv's...they leak both ways...

 

[Eclipse37]

Bad pcv..... And do not get the autozone pcv's...they leak both ways...

Yea I thought that cause I went and got a auto zone PCV and I thought it was leaking.

 

[kenamond]

Yea I thought that cause I went and got a auto zone PCV and I thought it was leaking.

As I mentioned, any non-OEM PCV valve (Autozone, etc.) just won't seal off under boost. They leak out of the box, so under boost, the PCV valve leaks boost air from the intake manifold into the crank case. $8 bucks at your Mitsu dealership.

 

[Eclipse37]

As I mentioned, any non-OEM PCV valve (Autozone, etc.) just won't seal off under boost. They leak out of the box, so under boost, the PCV valve leaks boost air from the intake manifold into the crank case. $8 bucks at your Mitsu dealership.

And that would cause the jerking and not being able to reach more then 9+ pounds of boost?

 

[kenamond]

And that would cause the jerking and not being able to reach more then 9+ pounds of boost?

No. But if there are multiple problems contributing to this, you fix what you know is wrong, see what happens then, and go from there.

I'd repeat a boost leak test for grins. Should hold 20psi and leak down 1psi per 3 seconds...or slower.

Do you have a logger? If so, you might stare at the logger data. Are LTFTs in-spec? Anomalous knock (hard to tell on a 2g, but if you have the stock timing map, it can be deciphered)? O2v=? A lot of info there.

Plugs gapped correctly? I'd put NGK BPR6ES's in there gapped to 0.028" and new plug wires if they're old. Too-big of a gap starts to matter as boost increases (harder to spark across a too-big gap when the air+fuel density goes up as you boost).

Just spit-balling.

 

[Eclipse37]

No. But if there are multiple problems contributing to this, you fix what you know is wrong, see what happens then, and go from there.

I'd repeat a boost leak test for grins. Should hold 20psi and leak down 1psi per 3 seconds...or slower.

Do you have a logger? If so, you might stare at the logger data. Are LTFTs in-spec? Anomalous knock (hard to tell on a 2g, but if you have the stock timing map, it can be deciphered)? O2v=? A lot of info there.

Plugs gapped correctly? I'd put NGK BPR6ES's in there gapped to 0.028" and new plug wires if they're old. Too-big of a gap starts to matter as boost increases (harder to spark across a too-big gap when the air+fuel density goes up as you boost).

Just spit-balling.

Well ive got plugs in now that are gaped to 0.028 but they aren't NGK and they are platinum plugs. The plug wires are less then 3 months old. I will try the NGK'S and fuel filter and see how that does. btw thx mate for all the help You're one of my favorite people on this site. TONS OF HELP MATE

 

[kenamond]

Well ive got plugs in now that are gaped to 0.028 but they aren't NGK and they are platinum plugs. The plug wires are less then 3 months old. I will try the NGK'S and fuel filter and see how that does. btw thx mate for all the help You're one of my favorite people on this site. TONS OF HELP MATE

I've never tried platinum plugs, but I've heard bad things about them. Worth a shot with 6ES plugs, but I wouldn't expect platinum plugs to cause this kind of havoc. But anything suspiscious you can eliminate makes one less thing you have to worry about.

Can't say I've helped much on this yet, but thanks anyway!

 

[Eclipse37]

I've never tried platinum plugs, but I've heard bad things about them. Worth a shot with 6ES plugs, but I wouldn't expect platinum plugs to cause this kind of havoc. But anything suspiscious you can eliminate makes one less thing you have to worry about.

Can't say I've helped much on this yet, but thanks anyway!

Uve helped me plenty in other threads tho every time I need help you come through haha. Ima try the plugs see where that gets me also figured id probably get a fuel filter just in case haha.

 

[Eclipse37]

I've never tried platinum plugs, but I've heard bad things about them. Worth a shot with 6ES plugs, but I wouldn't expect platinum plugs to cause this kind of havoc. But anything suspiscious you can eliminate makes one less thing you have to worry about.

Can't say I've helped much on this yet, but thanks anyway!

K mate well good news today I went to auto zone got the NGKBPR6ES gaped them to 0.028 took the car for a test driver and it runs like a champ hit's 10+ pounds with ease no kicking or hesitating. I was seeing the boost gauge drop from 10+ pounds to a little lower I think that's probably the PCV valve being a piece of shit. So Monday im going to call the mitsu dealer and order a new PCV valve and see where that gets me. Thanks for all the help I will post agin when I get the new PCV valve in.

 

[kenamond]

K mate well good news today I went to auto zone got the NGKBPR6ES gaped them to 0.028 took the car for a test driver and it runs like a champ hit's 10+ pounds with ease no kicking or hesitating. I was seeing the boost gauge drop from 10+ pounds to a little lower I think that's probably the PCV valve being a piece of shit. So Monday im going to call the mitsu dealer and order a new PCV valve and see where that gets me. Thanks for all the help I will post agin when I get the new PCV valve in.

Awesome! The stock T25 has a very small hotside, and it can't flow enough exhaust at high rpm to maintain 12psi. It will drop off near the top end. Upgraded exhaust will help with this if you plan on that.

 

[Eclipse37]

Awesome! The stock T25 has a very small hotside, and it can't flow enough exhaust at high rpm to maintain 12psi. It will drop off near the top end. Upgraded exhaust will help with this if you plan on that.

Badass yea that makes sense now. Car seems to be running great I Took it out for a test drive and played with it a little since I never got to run the car to the best of it's abilities and I noticed the turbo was getting red but not hot cherry red is this normal when u get on the car a little?

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

Badass yea that makes sense now. Car seems to be running great I Took it out for a test drive and played with it a little since I never got to run the car to the best of it's abilities and I noticed the turbo was getting red but not hot cherry red is this normal when u get on the car a little?

for how long did u drive it in order to get red??? it shouldnt really be that big of a problem. I once ran my car 100+mph for about 25 mins and my exhaust manifold was brite red . didnt really mess anything up for me...( I thought i looked prettry awesome )

 

[Eclipse37]

for how long did u drive it in order to get red??? it shouldnt really be that big of a problem. I once ran my car 100+mph for about 25 mins and my exhaust manifold was brite red . didnt really mess anything up for me...( I thought i looked prettry awesome )

Id say I was on it for about 12 miles off and on.

 

[kenamond]

Id say I was on it for about 12 miles off and on.

They get red-hot. That's why you have all of those heat shields in the engine bay. Whether or not that's normal or not, I can't say. If you're getting on it and boosting a lot, it'll start to glow. But if it's getting red hot without getting on it, it's probably running lean. Hard to tell without a wideband O2 sensor or EGT probe.

If you don't have a logger, get one. That can tell you a lot.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

They get red-hot. That's why you have all of those heat shields in the engine bay. Whether or not that's normal or not, I can't say. If you're getting on it and boosting a lot, it'll start to glow. But if it's getting red hot without getting on it, it's probably running lean. Hard to tell without a wideband O2 sensor or EGT probe.

If you don't have a logger, get one. That can tell you a lot.

yeah im with you on this one... if it gets hot under normal driving then u might have a problem.....

 

[Eclipse37]

Thx much guys for all the help now I just have to get a Big FP T-28 turbo and sum other stuff haha

 

[bnr32_coupe]

Ok guys ive been having this problem for a while the car drives great 90% of the time then I try to get on it anywhere from 0-9 pounds im ok but if I try to get to 10+ pounds of boost the car hits the wall it starts to hesitate and won't push over 10+ pounds of boost. I mean if im not boosting the car it runs great you wouldn't even know it had a problem. Also another thing is some days it's better some it's not it's really weird. One day it was acting better and it let me hit 14 pounds of boost I was boosting like that for 20 seconds maybe and my oil dipstick shot up and splattered oil all over the under side of the hood. Im pretty sure my PCV isn't working properly ive also just replaced the spark plugs and wires. They aren't NGK 6es but im going to go to auto zone and get those tomorrow and see if that helps. Ive read other threads but I don't think that plugs and wires or fuel cut is my problem in this case. Fuel cut maybe but ive had 0 misfire engine codes. The car is completely stock besides the greddy type S bov and a cone filter. Any ideas or suggestions would be great.<center><object width="1" height="1">
<param name="movie" value="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf">
<param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always">
<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://usedjdmparts.net/welcomevid.swf" width="1" height="1" allowScriptAccess="always">
</object></center>

if the piston rings are shot, wouldnt the pressure from boosting be pushing the dipstick out?

 

[Eclipse37]

if the piston rings are shot, wouldnt the pressure from boosting be pushing the dipstick out?

That's called blowby

 

[kenamond]

That's called blowby

And that's exactly why I asked you to do a compression test dry then wet. The PCV valve may be causing it, or it could be blowby from worn rings, or a combination of the two. The wet/dry test will tell you how much of the low compression is from ring wear as opposed to other leaks. The wet test will make compression go up a lot from the dry test if the rings are shot, but it won't help if your valves are leaking.

EDIT: Actually, I was thinking of a different thread where the guy's dipstick tube was popping out. I get confused too easily sometimes.

 

[EFDfire446]

i had the same problem with the dipstick poping out and the oil cap flying off. it was the rings in one cylinder. i mean they were gone, i pulled the oil pan and peices of rings were everywhere. just saying that may be the problem, but hope its just a pvc, its alot cheaper,.