Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

[scrcco]

I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???

 

[wraithGSX]

Either the aftermarket dipstick,or the catch can idea will work. you only need one catch can,and it can be plummed in so the oil it catches,returns to the pan. I have a bolt with a hole drilled in it,with an AN fitting welded to it,that threads into the block,where the screwdriver would go to make sure the balance shaft is aligned properly for doin the timing belt,and it drains out of my catch can,back into the block.

 

[pauleyman]

it can be plummed in so the oil it catches,returns to the pan. I have a bolt with a hole drilled in it,with an AN fitting welded to it,that threads into the block,where the screwdriver would go to make sure the balance shaft is aligned properly for doin the timing belt,and it drains out of my catch can,back into the block.

I've seen guys run a line out of the valve cover and the bottom outlet of the catch can into the pan or block without a vent. If you do this it isn't a catch can anymore. It's just a line connecting two points in the crankcase. I would rather put a sealed catch can inline between the valve cover and the intake pipe. This retains the stock setup without drawing any oil into the intake.

 

[geno414]

Either the aftermarket dipstick,or the catch can idea will work. you only need one catch can,and it can be plummed in so the oil it catches,returns to the pan. I have a bolt with a hole drilled in it,with an AN fitting welded to it,that threads into the block,where the screwdriver would go to make sure the balance shaft is aligned properly for doin the timing belt,and it drains out of my catch can,back into the block.

But on the diagram it says you need two catch cans?

 

[wraithGSX]

Every car I've ever seen had only one,and my closest 5 friends have an 800hp Evo,a400hp DSM,a700hp DSM,a 600hp Evo,and a 900hp turbo 351 Stang...they are all running only 1. Maybe if you're not having it drain back into the motor,but I don't know anyone who doesn't pipe in a return...

 

[Chrispy0530]

Either the aftermarket dipstick,or the catch can idea will work. you only need one catch can,and it can be plummed in so the oil it catches,returns to the pan. I have a bolt with a hole drilled in it,with an AN fitting welded to it,that threads into the block,where the screwdriver would go to make sure the balance shaft is aligned properly for doin the timing belt,and it drains out of my catch can,back into the block.

This is typically why you don't want it sent back into your oil pan.

Copied and pasted from the link,

Why can’t I just recirculate the oil in my catch can back to the oil pan?

There’s a very good reason why this is a bad idea.

That liquid that has collected in the can isn't just oil; it also contains all sorts of combustion by-products that have made it past the piston rings, as well as liquid water which condenses as the hot gases hit the relatively cool can. So now sitting in the bottom of the catch can is a mix of hydrocarbons (raw fuel and other nasty things), water, and oil. Do you really want this to be dumped back into your engine's clean oil supply?

 

[airmail96]

To do a proper setup they say you need 2 catch cans. If your not to worried about it then the next best recommendation is a single catch can that removes the pcv with some sort of vacuum hose connected to the intake pipe to provide suction under boost.

Taken from The 4G63T System

When the factory setup isn’t enough…

In certain cases, even the improved factory arrangement with larger lines may not be adequate for relieving crankcase pressure. In this case it may be desirable to disregard the ventilation aspect of the PCV system altogether and concentrate solely on relieving the excess pressure. This usually involves deleting the PCV valve, blocking the IM port, and running extra and/or larger lines from the VC to the turbo inlet. Before deciding to do this, I would highly recommend that you make sure this is the best choice for your situation. Some factors to consider are:

1. The oil must be changed often and religiously, so that hydrocarbon contamination doesn’t become an issue.

2. Is crankcase pressure really high enough to warrant bypassing the PCV valve and running extra VC lines? Measure it!

3. Is the excess pressure the result of an engine problem that needs to be fixed? For example, if the rings are worn enough to cause excessively high blow by, it would be wise to replace the rings, rather than worrying about the PCV system.

 

[Lou98GSX]

if you don't fix the cause of the problem then you are just putting a band aid on it . if your pcv system is working properly then you have to do a leak down test to see if pressure is leaking past the rings and going into your oil pan making the dipstick pop out.

 

[Clutch450]

I've read up on the treads about the Dipstick popping out and the solutions and causes.
I have a 2.4 6 bolt block with an fp3065 turbo at 35 psi and with no fail the Dipstick will always pop out under full boost. I just replaced the PCV valve a week ago with a brand new one from Extremepsi. I did a compression check and have 170lbs across all 4.
I don't just want a temporary fix like crimping the Dipstick tube or anything.
I do not have a catch can set up. The PCV is hooked into a boost source line. And the breather on the valve cover is dumped to atmosphere.
What could be a cause for this?
Just generally to high of boost for a little breather tube?

 

[ramsack]

The PCV is hooked into a boost source line.

Describe what you mean by this. Your crank case needs to be under slight vacuum. However you achieve that does not matter. A pump, a catch can hooked to the intake, the valve cover connected right to the intake...it does not matter.

 

[supermario300hp]

had the same problem. changed th pcv valve and it kept popping and spraying oil all over. STM makes a dipstick tube with a flange and a spring to hold it down for like 55bucks. I just got a hose clamp and spring from autozone. put the clamp down where the dipstick bends and hooked a spring on the clamp and the other end on the actual dipstick. Dont know if you want to do that but it solved my problem

 

[TSiAWD666]

I'm not at your levels yet, at least not until I finish break-in on my 2.3l and move to a larger turbo, and hopefully someone will jump in with actual experience, but I recall reading anecdotes from those running your levels of boost and commenting that depending on the tolerances in the engine (mainly the pistons/rings I think it was) they had to have better evacuation of crankcase pressure than stock could provide, and went to larger AN ports on the valve cover and lines. Perhaps you simply have too much pressure for the stock vent system but it's... "normal" and just need better ventilation

I know you don't want a temp fix but the stock dipstick wouldn't be my first choice as failure handling of crankcase pressure due to the fact that the oil will spray out of there and can start a fire easily. I put a small hose clamp on the end using the thick part where the tightener is, loop a trimmed zip tie through the dipstick handle, and hook the loop over the host clamp. Works like a charm and costs very little.

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

The oem pcv valves are pretty worthless. They just can't properly check off the boost pressure from blowing back into the crankcase. You need to add one of these upstream from the pcv valve you are using now.

3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.

By upstream, I mean between the intake manifold and the pcv valve in the valve cover. These babies are rated at 150psi, so I think they'll hold up to anything you can throw at them.

I too had the same problem before I added one of these. Now there's no more dipstick popping. And no need to add one of those springs to mask the problem.

 

[ramsack]

And finding an OEM PCV valve anymore that even works at first and under human mouth pressure is even more worthless.

 

[Clutch450]

Well when I first had the car I used an old valve cover that had huge -10 an fitting welded to it and had hose attached that vented to the ground with no PCV. But under boost it would just spray oil out the lines and onto the ground but guess what the Dipstick stayed in place.
So your saying by putting one of those check valves upstream it should help my situation?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Are you currently running a pcv valve in the valve cover that connects to the intake manifold like a factory setup? If so, yes the plastic pcv valve that I linked from USPlastic will help a lot.

 

[Clutch450]

Yes I do have it routed like stock. PCV valve in valve cover connected to the intake manifold.
I'm going to buy one of those check valves and see how it works out

 

[NHerron]

Well like you originally thought, there's nothing wrong with your stock PCV system, it's just not designed for the increased blow by which come hand in hand with bigger turbos. Strapping on a bigger turbo of course will have tons more blow by and the stock PCV system WILL NOT handle it efficiently I don't care who says otherwise. Even if it wasn't spraying oil everywhere through the dipstick/oil cap leaking it's still destroying the oil from high acidic levels that would otherwise be swept out from a properly sized PCV system. It also affects engine RPM's since it's fighting against increased crankcase pressure. Among other things, at least one reason for oil samples is to let you know if you have too much blow by either a worn out engine or in your case a now restrictive PCV system caused by increased blow by.

Here's a very good link that should give some more insight.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

And the breather on the valve cover is dumped to atmosphere.

The vent line needs to be hooked up to a vacuum source to work properly.

 

[cnordelo]

Same thing used to happen to me to. Just got a new dip stick with seal and it stopped popping out.
Good luck man.

 

[DSM1G90]

Funny ... over 400 posts and still no conclusion accepted...

True, the old straight 6 cars of yesteryear did have their crankcase ventilation system sent to atmosphere since these weren't high powered motors, but slow RPM motors that produced tonnage of low RPM torque and no synth oils at the time - just good ol' straight weight, non-detergent varieties.

Now, you need the vacuum to pull out the vapors out of the block due to the higher demand of these newer motors, or the oils will really break down faster...

 

[Lizardman]

Also get rid of that PCV valve, plug off the nipple on the intake manny it runs to. Take out the pcv valve and replace it with a 1/8" brass nipple and stick a breather filter on there. It will help get rid of the excess crankcase pressure that is causing the dipstick to shoot up.

DONOT tape or zitie your dipstick to fix it, then instead of oil coming out your dipstick, the pressure will not be released and you will blow seals in your engine instead. then suddenly you will find oil all over your timing belt when you bend your valves because the timing jumped from the oil seals leaking onto the timing belt.

There should be a sticky on dipstick blowouts/pcv elimination.

That great advise. I am having the same issue. It happend I was getting on it. It blew oil al over the place. Not to much but enough. My question to you is how many tubes are you capping off and does it effect anything else?

Thanks

Same thing used to happen to me to. Just got a new dip stick with seal and it stopped popping out.
Good luck man.

Where did you find your new dipstick rubber stopper at? Did you get a whole new Dipstick as well? IF so where did you get them?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

im running high boost on a larger turbo and my dipstick pops out... my guess is excessive crank case pressure. my PCV is running into a bottle but im thinking about deleting the PCV valve and putting a through valve to see if that helps ventalation.. if not i might have to weld on some -AN fittings i had crushed the top of my dip stick tube and it still popped out.. gonna try and re crush it but those 1g dip sticks sure get slick and soft when warm... gonna try and tie it down with a spring if the re crimping doesnt work.

PS: i saw the thread date and didnt care, im having this issue right now and it pisses me off having oil spray in my bay at only 8psi on my scm6152

 

[Calan]

Well I think you take the prize for oldest thread revival, and posting on a topic with the most information available (other than maybe recirculating the BOV).

Fix your CC pressure issue.... crushing the dipstick and everything else is just putting a band-aid on it. You've probably seen this, but here it is again for those that haven't: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well I think you take the prize for oldest thread revival, and posting on a topic with the most information available (other than maybe recirculating the BOV).

Fix your CC pressure issue.... crushing the dipstick and everything else is just putting a band-aid on it. You've probably seen this, but here it is again for those that haven't: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

no believe me i read it... and as for the oldest thread revival ill gladly accept any prize! i was looking at what people were doing for crank case pressure BUT this PTE GT35R equivilent doesnt seem to care that i vent my PCV still pops out! i re crimped it and an going to put a through valve on my PCV and hope i dont have to weld AN fittings like i said. i had good compression 185 190 185 185 so its not the rings... and my turbo is fine so there must be another reason for CC pressure to build up.. or is that just standard with large turbos? the reason for comming across this thread is that i was boosting my scm6152 at 8psi and the stick popped out and soaked my bay... kinda pissed me off

calan... build me a catch can! do you have a link to a write up on how to weld AN fittings to the PCV ports?

 

[spadepro22]

Had the same problem, new dipstick fixed it