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Broke A Piston Wrist Pin.

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Which rod? I broke #4 wrist pin a couple months ago. The small end bushing had slowly been deteriorating til the clearance was too large. I auto-crossed at 9k in 1st all day and finally killed it. Luckily there was no other damage, but the piston and rod...

Piston #2
 
Keltalon... Sorry for my miss information on how many engine builds. All I could remeber is that you had a fair amout of issues when you were doing the cam test. I thought they were mainly engine failures, Along with the thread on the pistion issue.

Thank you for setting the record straight on that.


Where/how did the wrist pin fail?

Some wrist pins have a machined "step" in the center of the wrist pin.
Did the wrist pin fail laterally or radialy?

A few pics would be nice to see of the filure, when you have the time.
 
Well I guess I need to count my blessing OMG

Count my blessing, let's see, that's, 1? ROFL



All I could remeber is that you had a fair amout of issues

Well you could probably say that. Check back through the list of "threads started by keltalon". But the good thing is we hear about them which is always interesting.
So my keltalon count would go like this:

Issues: several
Blessings: 1
Interesting threads: Always! LOL
 
Keltalon... Sorry for my miss information on how many engine builds. All I could remeber is that you had a fair amout of issues when you were doing the cam test. I thought they were mainly engine failures, Along with the thread on the pistion issue.

Thank you for setting the record straight on that.


Where/how did the wrist pin fail?

Some wrist pins have a machined "step" in the center of the wrist pin.
Did the wrist pin fail laterally or radialy?

A few pics would be nice to see of the filure, when you have the time.

No problem I have had my share of issues. I will try and get some pics up.
 
Are people adverse to sleeving the block? Its a simple fix nowadays. Just wondering.

No a sleeve would do, but due to the cost of the sleeve and the machine work and labor to install the sleeve can be cost prohibitive.

Also depending on the shop and there procedures on installing the sleeve, you could be worse off in short order.


With the cost of the sleeve and the labor cost can be $100-$150 per sleeve.

The the block needs to be bored to be made round, most all the time when the dry sleeve is press fit it ends up egged shaped, then the block should be decked so the tops of the sleeves are flus to the block deck.
 
I've wondered though, how is the supply of 6-bolt turbo blocks these days? And when are we going to run out of them? Seems like they are getting destroyed one way or another at a rapid rate and there weren't many made in the first place, right?

I've often wondered the same thing but with the supply of n/t 6 bolt blocks and the endless supply of "jdm" blocks(mostall 6 blts too) i think the guys who are seriousely looking for one to build will be able to find them for some time to come

they were also in a non turbo form in some hyundai cars, the N/T blocks are just fine built with forged pistons and not using oil squirters


of course, worst case we might all have to build 2.3 - 2.4 liter enggines :D
 
I've often wondered the same thing but with the supply of n/t 6 bolt blocks and the endless supply of "jdm" blocks(mostall 6 blts too) i think the guys who are seriousely looking for one to build will be able to find them for some time to come

they were also in a non turbo form in some hyundai cars, the N/T blocks are just fine built with forged pistons and not using oil squirters


of course, worst case we might all have to build 2.3 - 2.4 liter enggines :D

Thanks tg - If you are putting forged pistons into a 6-bolt block with oil squirters, is it actually better to take the squirters out (and put plugs in)? Or would you still use the squirters?
 
I have started the port/clean up on the head for my new engine build. here's a short video. I will post pics of the finished head later.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lXzA2h3KKPI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Okay I got a chance to work on my head again today. Spent about 3 hrs cleaning up the intake valve pockets and roughing out the exhaust valve pockets. This is very time consuming but I am in for the long haul:cool: check out video. thanks. <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_LY0eBSGxfI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Reading about Weisco pistons a few days ago, noticed that the ones that are $100 more expensive (Weisco 1400HD) come with tool steel wrist pins, instead of the normal low alloy steel. Guess now I know why!

Yeah this time I had upgraded my wrist pins as well cost me an additional 16.00/pin. Worth it though.
 
How does that make me a troll? I was just trying to offer you a piece of advice so you don't go through the same trouble again. If you don't build engines for a living you may not know what to look for to properly diagnose the root cause of the problem. The easy way out is to blame the part that failed but nine times out of 10 thats not the case.
 
Ok here are some pics of my broken pin and my upgraded pin. Cp said that I was pushing the limit of the 21mm 6bolt pin on their stocking pistons (Anther weakness of the cp slugs) with my Hp levels of nearly 600whp they told me that I should have informed them what my hp goals were and they would have recommended the thicker pin on the initial purchase. This is from the horses mouth. As you can see in the pic the new pin is much thicker and according to cp will be able to handle up to a 1000hp. Just though I share this information:rolleyes:
 

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Okay done with port work. Now I will take head back to machine shop to have it surfaced I will clean up combustion chamber later.
 

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Watching those vids you put up definitely made me realize I should try and port my own head. You didn't even really have to go into much detail so I could understand. good stuff thanks for putting that up.

Just had one question. In the section about porting around the valve guides. You said to go in about an inch from the valve guide correct? Does any work get done to the seats or does that get taken care of when you do a 3 angle valve job?

This is all new to me so I may have messed up on my terminology, correct me if I'm wrong please. Thanks
 
Watching those vids you put up definitely made me realize I should try and port my own head. You didn't even really have to go into much detail so I could understand. good stuff thanks for putting that up.

Just had one question. In the section about porting around the valve guides. You said to go in about an inch from the valve guide correct? Does any work get done to the seats or does that get taken care of when you do a 3 angle valve job?

This is all new to me so I may have messed up on my terminology, correct me if I'm wrong please. Thanks

This is exactly what I said a couple years ago. I always wanted a ported head but couldn't comes to grip with paying 1000 plus dollars for one. I also saw a buddy's head that was ported and knew that I could do a better job myself so I had nothing to lose and have ported about 6 dsm heads so far. Its best to have the machine shop cut the throat of the valve poctet it is far easy to blend than you trying to do it yourself.
 
Seeing this thread is scaring me. I'm also getting a lifter tick sound with 3g lifters and ported head :sosad:

Good thing the block and head didn't get any damage :thumb:

huh? Thought the 3g lifters were supposed to fix that problem.


Kel I have a spare 1g head laying around. Has bad valve guides. Was thinking of junking it but may try and revive it. Not sure what it would cost to replace the valve guides. Was told it could get pricey since they are press fit in.

One more question. You said you gasket match the intake runners but not the exhaust? So the exhaust side basically just gets opened up internally but the outer part where it mates with the exhaust mani and gasket stay the same correct?

I've been looking at a few kits from eastwood also. Are these kits in the same ballpark as to what you use to port your heads?
Engine Porting Kit
Cylinder Porting and Finishing Kit
 
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