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Broke A Piston Wrist Pin.

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Well I don't prefer to spike and after reading your post I am even more impressed with the power curve of my combination the dyno operator said it best he "has never seen a 4 cylinder make that much whp with very little effort". I think he ment not having to rev to the moon! I drove in with 650 and drove out with 650 in this build thread the car is what it is!
Wow Kels, Im looking forward to you re-dynoing after you get the other pump. Im really liking my setup(cyclone mani) and will bug out if you make 700whp with that thing. Make it happen dude!!!!!:thumb: Like i said before unreal!!!!!!!!:cool:
 
Looking forward to seeing how much more with another pump should be pushing over 700. Sim has a dyno here so ill be having my buddy putting it on with the current setup and future builds. Nice work again.
 
Wow Kels, Im looking forward to you re-dynoing after you get the other pump. Im really liking my setup(cyclone mani) and will bug out if you make 700whp with that thing. Make it happen dude!!!!!:thumb: Like i said before unreal!!!!!!!!:cool:

Yeah its going to be interesting to see new numbers with a tune ,fuel and clutch upgrade
 
Spiking boost, especially on a smaller turbo.. is not done to cheat a dyno.. its done to make more torque.

I did this with my 14B and S16G. Small turbos, with likewise small turbines and housings. They run out of steam early so when you are trying to make power you make it give all its got where it can do so.

You can spike a 14B reliably into the mid 20s for boost (provided you oil it properly) but no matter what as both engine demand catch up and the turbine approaches its flow capacity boost will fall off. So I used to see 25psi peak, falling to upper teens by 7k rpm.

Because of the way horsepower is related to torque mathematically you can't really "cheat" anything this way. If you make for example 325wtq @ 5000rpm on the spike and it falls to 250 by 7000 as the turbo falls on its face, your power figures over that period will look like this:

310whp/325wtq @ 5000RPM
325whp/287wtq @ 6000RPM
333whp/250wtq @ 7000RPM

Even then, what's there to cheat? Your engine still produced those figures, and for most people the mid-range grunt is the most fun. You're not a big fan of high engine speed either, so I would think this approach would be right up your alley, no?

Exactly.

It can be done on purpose or by accident. Either way it's not cheating.

I was just looking at a log with mindblowin03 a couple days ago, of his car, which has a huge mountain of torque like KT's car does. We were trying to figure out if there was a big boost spike where the torque mountain is. Was hard to tell because he was boosting beyond his MAP which is a GM 3.3 bar, so the MAP trace there is a flat plateau, but the BoostEst keeps going up like a rocket to a way higher number. That's where my BoostEst question really started. Anyway, his is by accident, was not planned. BTW his is a cyclone car also. :sneaky:
 
Exactly.

It can be done on purpose or by accident. Either way it's not cheating.

I was just looking at a log with mindblowin03 a couple days ago, of his car, which has a huge mountain of torque like KT's car does. We were trying to figure out if there was a big boost spike where the torque mountain is. Was hard to tell because he was boosting beyond his MAP which is a GM 3.3 bar, so the MAP trace there is a flat plateau, but the BoostEst keeps going up like a rocket to a way higher number. That's where my BoostEst question really started. Anyway, his is by accident, was not planned. BTW his is a cyclone car also. :sneaky:

Come on boost I know what both of you guys are saying but what I am talking about is the dudes that manipulate their set up just before the dyno to get higher numbers and then have to turn the boost down and set everything back to drivability to drive home ,. I thought boost spiking was like these guys that is why I mention cheating! But if its not then good =:cool: but the Idea of boost spiking is not my cup of tea;)
 
Okay while everybody else is doing their drag build and I am doing my street build I am one step closer to perfection with my tune and reaching my goal of 700whp with the cyclone intake manifold:D Here is a little video clip of my idle success took many frustrating hours but I got it:thumb: Now I move on to the Wot tuning;)

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/NGcej3bhbfg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
what I am talking about is the dudes that manipulate their set up just before the dyno to get higher numbers and then have to turn the boost down and set everything back to drivability to drive home

Oh yeah I agree, that you could call cheating! Well, unless you say straight out that you did that and you don't actually drive it that way.

Then there's another layer of it, where you might have multiple tunes - one for drag strip, and another one that you figure could get you through a 1 hour long road race with no engine damage. That's fair too!

Here is a little video clip of my idle success took many frustrating hours but I got it:thumb:

Kels, what else did you have to set besides deadtime to make it idle nice? Why was it so hard? I mean, I know big injectors don't or didn't used to have good control at very small pulse width. But what took the frustrating hours?

Did you pick the 2150's because they are big or because they are high impedance?

Is it going to bother you that they don't like oxygenated fuels and supposedly may have a corrosion problem with E85? (I guess this boils down to following the "care instructions" which I couldn't find on the FIC web site).

I'm curious because I'll probably need bigger injectors next year, and ever since the high-Z models have come out I am starting all over again figuring this injector stuff out.
 
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Okay while everybody else is doing their drag build and I am doing my street build I am one step closer to perfection with my tune and reaching my goal of 700whp with the cyclone intake manifold:D Here is a little video clip of my idle success took many frustrating hours but I got it:thumb: Now I move on to the Wot tuning;)

Why is the ISC position at 100? Hi or Lo Z injectors? Is it supposed to idle at 1100?
 
Why is the ISC position at 100? Hi or Lo Z injectors? Is it supposed to idle at 1100?

HI z injectors. 1100 is what I feel is ideal with the cam settings I have. why the isc is a 100 might have a lot to do with the fact that I had to alter the ics settings in direct access as one of the things I had to do to along with a few other things to get the car to idle to my liking.
 
Well the walbro 450 E-85 pump came in yesterday I will be installing this baby in the next few days. I decided to give it a try before going duals someone suggested it may be all i need for my goal.
 

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Why is the ISC position at 100? Hi or Lo Z injectors? Is it supposed to idle at 1100?

I found out the isc driver inside the ecu had blown I recently had it repaired and she purrrrs like a kitten now! Good observation:thumb:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/m85S0KlZeNs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I found out the isc driver inside the ecu had blown I recently had it repaired and she purrrrs like a kitten now! Good observation:thumb:

Gee, a repair inside the ecu. Could you tell us who did that for you?

Gotta say, most videos of a car idling are kind of boring, but that wasn't boring at all. Good job!


Kel, in your youtube video about the paint your dad did on the car, it says paint code A52 Minden Silver Pearl. Could you explain a little bit what that is? Is that a 1999 Eclipse factory color? Is A52 the ppg paint code? When I google A52 paint code I get that and I also get it as a BMW color called Space Gray Metallic.
 
Here's the first of several upgrades. Jmf street intake. It's going to be interesting to see if I gain much by swapping the cyclone with the jmf street. The jmf was made compatible with the s90 70mm throttle since I am also swapping my exhaust manifold I went ahead and had my turbo compressor cover polished.
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Finally got my manifold. Dropped it off to be ceramic coated.

Before ceramic pictures.
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The manifold is installed one word WOW! dyno numbers coming next week with the cyclone again and bc 272s. My hope is to break 700 with this setup before the cam and intake upgrade:thumb:
 
I'm jealous. My idle has never been that good with the 2150s and I'm paying for a remote tune. My idle sucks. Idk if it's something messed up or in the tune. Love the ride bro. Nice numbers. 700 is above and beyond my goals LOL
 
I'm jealous. My idle has never been that good with the 2150s and I'm paying for a remote tune. My idle sucks. Idk if it's something messed up or in the tune. Love the ride bro. Nice numbers. 700 is above and beyond my goals LOL

Thanks. It took a good minute for me to kind of figure it out but the time put forth was worth the effort. :thumb:
 
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