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Broke A Piston Wrist Pin.

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keltalon

Supporting VIP
3,476
966
Jun 29, 2003
Luthersville Ga, Atlanta, Georgia
Okay fellas the beast will be down until sometime mid september. I Have been loosing turbo spool and horsepower for a while. This started before my last dyno session in which I made 573whp. Just recently I developed this ticking noise which I put off as bad lifters.

So I changed the lifter and the tick was still there. I spent the next couple of day on these boards and the evo boards reading thread after thread on how to solve lifter tick. I tried almost every thing. I then came across a thread that suggest that it could be a wrist pin so I dropped the oil pan and took a flash light and long screw driver and moved, the best I could from under the car, each piston. One was a concern.

Next I decided to pull the engine, took it to the shop , broke it down and found that one of my wrist pins had broken slap into two pieces. I have waisted no time with a new bottom end build. The only thing that will be done differently is I am bumping my compression to around 9:5 to 1 from the current 8:5 to 1 4 weeks for the pistons to be custom made. Everything else being the same in my profile with the execption of my turbo and intake manifold.

I purchased a new pte 6266 cea unit that I will sell if this new comp billet wheel ballbearing extended tip 6765 does what I have been promised it will do. HP Goal 650 to 700. Injectors will be upgraded alone with an upgraded fuel system. Being that my car is fwd it will be fun:p Stay tuned! Just another one of the many challenges I have under taken since I have been fooling around with the DSMs for some reason I guess I am an addict for power!
 
Damn kelton just now luck for you. How many engine builds is this now?

Did you not do two just for the cam test? And another beacuse of a piston failure another time?
 
Ouch. Brand of pistons and rods? Any ideas as to why the pin failed?
 
Have you been using the same engine builder and/or machinists for all these blown motors? If so, might wanna think about switching...
 
Damn kelton just now luck for you. How many engine builds is this now?

Did you not do two just for the cam test? And another beacuse of a piston failure another time?

Only one full rebuild. All the others where repairs. in the case of the flawed cp piston I knoticed this when I was having the head gasket issues so I pulled the pistons honed the cylinder and replace pistons with custom set.

the other damage was oil pump failure which no damage was done to the engine. the oil pump damage interrupted the cam test from continuing as planned. And I think there were a time I replaced a head gaskets that wouldn't seal the head due to the amount of boost I was running. I voluntary pull the engine and installed a block that was oringed which is the current block. As far as rebuilding many engines you may have me mistaken for someone else.:rolleyes:

Had a turbo issue a time of two during the cam test also if this is what you may be thinking about.
Busted a couple clutches
Busted a coulple of transmissions

Now the broken wrinst pin is the first major damage in years and its beyond me. Can't really say why it gave up but it did. besides the repairs the engine has ran superb. I was told the pin could have suffered from fatigue who knows:cool: She will be back up soon.
 
Ouch. Brand of pistons and rods? Any ideas as to why the pin failed?

Cp pistons eagle rods. the rod brass busing was mushroomed. Cause no idea. I heard eagle uses cheap brass bushings in the small end of the rod.
 
Have you been using the same engine builder and/or machinists for all these blown motors? If so, might wanna think about switching...

Do me a favor pull my threads and show me all those blown motors post you are referring to I would love to see them:hmm: Besides the maching I build my own engines and have been so long before my dsm days.:cool:
 
Are you still going to use the eagle rods or are you going to switch to a different set?

I am sticking with them I will definitely replace the one. The machine shop say its okay and that they can replace the busing but I am gonna replace it. The other 3 rods look great no bushing issue or anything despite the beating I put on this car in the last 3yrs. I think the broken pin is what ate away at the bushing though.
 
Man its been a while I am not for sure.

Sorry for the blown motors assumption, as I was assuming BogusSVO was correct in the numbers he threw out since I don't follow your threads. On a side note, u said you build all your motors...you don't write down your clearances to reference back to?
 
Why waste your time with the comp turbo again? multiple people have made 700+ on a 6266.
 
Okay I guess I need to put this out there because some people have forgotten that these cars are going to break when you start making big Hp and all we can do is fix them when they do and when we get tire the game is over. If you are making over 500 to 600 hp you gonna break something at some point and that's when you got to make the decision whether to continue or stop. If you continue rest assured something else will break in due time. this is taking from common mistakes and misconception written by Ludachris a while back and trust me I have found it to be nothing but true:cool:

3. Running 10's - not cheap, and not easy
An unachievable goal for 95% of the DSM community. I love seeing people come in here and think they're going to run 10's and 11's. Sure, it's possible, but it is only done by those who have a lot of money to spend. If you have your car parked in the driveway and have $10k in your wallet and know what you're doing, you may have a chance. The truth is, it will require just as much technical knowledge of your car as it does money. Spending the money is the easy part. It's not the parts that make your car run 10's. It's the testing, tuning adjustments, repairs, new trannies, and driving practice that will get you there. DSMs are very capable of running fast times, but like any other car, they require money and know-how to go fast.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/731471-post1.html

I am chosing to continue therefore I like to get noting but support here on the boards. I am not ready to part my car and to be honest never will.;)
 
Sorry for the blown motors assumption, as I was assuming BogusSVO was correct in the numbers he threw out since I don't follow your threads. On a side note, u said you build all your motors...you don't write down your clearances to reference back to?

No problem. No I don't write them down. I just make sure I am getting them right when I am at that point in the build LOL. but I can pull the clearance on one of the existing to get an idea if you guys really need to know.
 
Okay I guess I need to put this out there because some people have forgotten that these cars are going to break when you start making big Hp and all we can do is fix them when they do and when we get tire the game is over. If you are making over 500 to 600 hp you gonna break something at some point and that's when you got to make the decision whether to continue or stop. If you continue rest assured something else will break in due time. this is taking from common mistakes and misconception written by Ludachris a while back and trust me I have found it to be nothing but true:cool:

3. Running 10's - not cheap, and not easy
An unachievable goal for 95% of the DSM community. I love seeing people come in here and think they're going to run 10's and 11's. Sure, it's possible, but it is only done by those who have a lot of money to spend. If you have your car parked in the driveway and have $10k in your wallet and know what you're doing, you may have a chance. The truth is, it will require just as much technical knowledge of your car as it does money. Spending the money is the easy part. It's not the parts that make your car run 10's. It's the testing, tuning adjustments, repairs, new trannies, and driving practice that will get you there. DSMs are very capable of running fast times, but like any other car, they require money and know-how to go fast.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/731471-post1.html

I am chosing to continue therefore I like to get noting but support here on the boards. I am not ready to part my car and to be honest never will.;)
If you are making good power and drive the car sometimes, it will break sometimes. If you are making good power, and drive all the time, the car breaks, frequently.
 
Why waste your time with the comp turbo again? multiple people have made 700+ on a 6266.

Well I am trying to help them get it right for the dsm world. They asked me to work with them for a minute before I move forward with something else. I have faith in what they have to offer this is the only reason I agreed I was a little upset at them but have sinced calmed down. This new 6765 extended tip is worth a shot.
 
If you are making good power and drive the car sometimes, it will break sometimes. If you are making good power, and drive all the time, the car breaks, frequently.

Daggumitt man is that why I am breaking stuff more often. I thought it was the highway pulls against those hayabusa'sLOL
 
Can you describe this tick you had you thought was the lifters? I have a wierd tick and remember having to open up the one of my Eagle's a tad due to one of the wrist pins being to snug in the small end. Did your tick ever go away after warm or was it RPM or load dependant?
 
Can you describe this tick you had you thought was the lifters? I have a wierd tick and remember having to open up the one of my Eagle's a tad due to one of the wrist pins being to snug in the small end. Did your tick ever go away after warm or was it RPM or load dependant?

The only time it would go away is on deceleration. Computer started to pick up knock under heavy load. It was almost like the lifter wasn't getting enough oil pressure. tick tick tick tick tick tick tick is what it sounded like.
 
Shitty to hear man.. At least you didnt have a total failure like I did a few years back. OE pistons, Im thinking a rod cap nut came loose and went from there.. Cashed the entire motor.. Walls were gouged so bad it wasnt reusable, damage to the head was catastrophic as well..

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kel, what did your cylinder walls look like after this? I mean, did the pin pieces get into the walls and gouge them?

Yup it did and since my block was already at 60 over its done. Fortunately I had a spare. This block is standard bore and will be bored 40 over for complete straightness.
 
Shitty to hear man.. At least you didnt have a total failure like I did a few years back. OE pistons, Im thinking a rod cap nut came loose and went from there.. Cashed the entire motor.. Walls were gouged so bad it wasnt reusable, damage to the head was catastrophic as well..

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Well I guess I need to count my blessingOMG
 

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Which rod? I broke #4 wrist pin a couple months ago. The small end bushing had slowly been deteriorating til the clearance was too large. I auto-crossed at 9k in 1st all day and finally killed it. Luckily there was no other damage, but the piston and rod...
 
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